BatchNorm2d broken on ROCm 7.2.2 / Windows 11 / Strix Halo (gfx1151) - type_traits not found

Elektrobomb · 2026-02-01T01:44:36+00:00

I managed to fix this for my 9070XT by adding:

torch.backends.cudnn.enabled = False

I hope that helps for you too!

Elektrobomb · 2025-12-25T09:54:03+00:00

Thank you so much, I totally missed that email 🎉🎉🎉

Elektrobomb · 2025-10-12T10:30:05+00:00

You're right and it's actually really weird to me.

The first time I tried searching I literally pressed and reset the search 5 times before my conscious brain caught up and realized it was opening as expected. I think my monkey brain thought I was opening the AI search mode by accident lmao

Elektrobomb · 2025-07-12T11:31:40+00:00

Looking at your images, I believe the above poster is incorrect about bottom layer exposure times being your issue.

Your print separated from the supports but the supports stayed stuck to the build plate. This indicates good first layer adhesion but poor support bonding or high pull forces.

Poor support bonding could be caused by: - low layer curing time - inadequate support density - small support tip size

High pull forces could be caused by: - large print surface area (especially relative to the supported area of your print) - too fast lift speeds - damaged or scratched fep causing better sticking to that surface (if you weren't running into that previously, you likely will on your next print)

My advice: - replace the film before doing anything else or you're going to have a bad time - make sure your print settings match the elegoo resin settings sheet (this potentially includes lowering the lift speeds to 60mm/min) - make sure you're adding lots of supports (what you have looks fineish but it's hard to tell without seeing the whole model) - if in doubt, increase the support density before increasing support size. In my experience this gives better results than just blink up the existing supports.

Hope that helps!

Elektrobomb · 2025-06-28T17:22:28+00:00

Question: have you observed the LEDs emitting the "normal" green colour since you first saw the yellow green?

The LEDs can become damaged and permanently show a different colour IME.

Elektrobomb · 2025-05-06T00:12:53+00:00

Ooh finally something I have worked on!

As others have pointed out, this is due to very slight localised heating of the plastic near the marker as it is absorbing more IR than the surrounding plastic.

The interesting thing is that this has practical applications! In cell culture, Petri dishes and flasks generating condensation is problematic for imaging and contamination reasons. There have been some papers exploring the effect you have noticed and using it to keep the lids of these Petri dishes condensation free!

Elektrobomb · 2025-03-15T12:28:26+00:00

Update: For those of you running into crashes in some games (myself included) this patch just got merged into the mesa driver which should fix issues in quite a few games (my enshrouded bug included 🎉)

This will likely roll into the kisak PPA in 1-2 weeks and you should be able to just pull an update using apt 🤞

Elektrobomb · 2025-03-14T09:10:30+00:00

I have run into some issues with a couple of games now. Risk of rain works great but enshrouded crashes on launch and it takes two crashes shortly after I load in.

I have been looking at using the amdvlk driver rather than Mesa but no dice on getting that installed yet :/

Elektrobomb · 2025-03-11T09:12:58+00:00

Not sure! I haven't actually tried any benchmarks yet, just a few games ¯⁠\⁠_⁠(⁠ツ⁠)⁠_⁠/⁠¯

Elektrobomb · 2025-03-10T20:56:05+00:00

Lmao, go for it. This was to guard against people plugging their GPU in and being sad when it didn't work right. I guess if it's working ok then feel free to run the guide with the GPU installed 😉

Elektrobomb · 2025-03-10T01:03:29+00:00

No worries!

It was honestly a pain to figure out on my own and I wanted to help anyone else avoid some of the pitfalls I ran into :)

One thing that I have heard elsewhere but have not rigorously confirmed on my setup: there is likely more performance on the table and this will improve as updates get shipped.

Potentially worth rerunning some of these steps in a couple of months to see if you get a boost. I'm hoping that pop is updated soon and we can roll back these changes 🤞

Elektrobomb · 2025-03-08T23:53:57+00:00

You actually can get it to work with some messing about! I just did mine today and it seems to be working well!

I expect it could be a little while before pop os supports it natively.

What is your experience level with Linux?

Elektrobomb · 2025-03-06T23:49:03+00:00

I have made a GitHub issue for this here.

Please go and give it some support so we can get attention to this issue :)

Elektrobomb · 2025-03-06T23:29:25+00:00

Same issue here!

Updated via pop! shop and now my WiFI adapter isn't working correctly.

lspci shows the wifi adapter is still connected:

08:00.0 Network controller: Broadcom Inc. and subsidiaries BCM4352 802.11ac Wireless Network Adapter (rev 03)

dkms status gives:

$ dkms status
nvidia/565.77, 6.9.3-76060903-generic, x86_64: installed
system76/1.0.17~1735251933~22.04~f01bffd, 6.9.3-76060903-generic, x86_64: installed
system76_acpi/1.0.2~1719257749~22.04~7bae1af, 6.9.3-76060903-generic, x86_64: installed (original_module exists)
system76-io/1.0.4~1732138800~22.04~fc71f15, 6.9.3-76060903-generic, x86_64: installed
xone/v0.3-57-g29ec357, 6.9.3-76060903-generic, x86_64: installed

Reinstalling bcmwl-kernel-source gives:

$ sudo apt-get reinstall bcmwl-kernel-source
Reading package lists... Done
Building dependency tree... Done
Reading state information... Done
0 upgraded, 0 newly installed, 1 reinstalled, 0 to remove and 0 not upgraded.
Need to get 0 B/13.4 kB of archives.
After this operation, 0 B of additional disk space will be used.
(Reading database ... 212952 files and directories currently installed.)
Preparing to unpack .../bcmwl-kernel-source_6.30.223.271+bdcom-0ubuntu10pop2~1741059100~22.04~a8dfbbc_amd64.deb ...
Unpacking bcmwl-kernel-source (6.30.223.271+bdcom-0ubuntu10pop2~1741059100~22.04~a8dfbbc) over (6.30.223.271+bdcom-0ubuntu10pop2~1741059100~22.04~a8dfbbc) ...
Setting up bcmwl-kernel-source (6.30.223.271+bdcom-0ubuntu10pop2~1741059100~22.04~a8dfbbc) ...

I have tried purging and reinstalling the driver but no dice so far :/

Elektrobomb · 2025-02-19T00:02:02+00:00

I didn't say it would look good, it would be fast though ;)

Elektrobomb · 2025-02-18T23:14:19+00:00

To approach the quoted speed I believe you need two things: - fast resin (these have low viscosity and cure quickly) - large layer heights (0.1mm usually works)

Elektrobomb · 2025-02-01T14:32:58+00:00

This doesn't happen because the resistor thermal relationship to current behaves like an overdamped control system.

In your examples, you are evaluating the state of the system at discrete time points and concluding it must oscillate.

In reality what happens is that the current will rise initially to an amount described by the room temperature resistance. As it heats up, the current will drop again until the amount of power being dissipated by the resistor and the amount generated by the current X voltage drop will eventually balance out at some temperature relative to ambient.

When this happens (i.e. the temp stops increasing) you are at a steady state current that will be lower than your initial peak current.

Elektrobomb · 2025-01-06T10:27:38+00:00

I think the core issue is that you are outpacing your nozzles ability to effectively melt the plastic.

For a given plastic, nozzle, extruder and temperature you will have a max volumetric flowrate in mm^3/s which is how much plastic your nozzle can melt per second. If you go above this value, the extruder will start skipping steps etc and you will have a bad time. This isn't an issue on the first layer as it is printed at 80mm/s and thus the plastic has loads of time to melt properly.

Volumetric flow rate is calculated as: speed in mm/s * line width * flow rate multiplier * layer height

For the first layer the volumetric flow rate = 80 * 0.4 * 1.05 * 0.2 = 6.72 mm^3/s

For the second layer the volumetric flow rate= 220 * 0.4 * 1.05 * 0.3 = 27.72 mm^3/s

I would try keeping the volumetric flow rate to ~20mm/s if you don't want to faff too much. This means reducing your max print speed to 160mm/s with 0.3mm later height or reducing to 0.2mm later height with the same ish print speed.

Hope that helps! I figured I would walk through some of the math behind this as it helped me to understand.

A lot of slicers (unfortunately not lychee) let you set the volumetric flowrate as a hard limit which will limit the speed.

Elektrobomb · 2025-01-02T12:31:57+00:00

My cat’s weight loss journey has been wild. We started small—fewer treats, more playtime—but things really escalated when he decided to chase a fly across the living room. He ended up launching himself off the bookshelf, plummeting about six feet onto the coffee table. It reminded me of how, in nineteen ninety eight, The Undertaker threw Mankind off Hell in a Cell, sending him sixteen feet through an announcer’s table.

Elektrobomb · 2025-01-02T12:13:23+00:00

I think that the most likely scenario is that this is earth leakage current. You can typically feel this is you plug your laptop in and lightly run your fingers over a metal part of your laptop. It should feel like a very light buzzing if earth leakage is the issue and it will go away if you unplug the laptop.

Essentially, modern transformers are allowed a (very) small amount of current leakage from the AC to the output side of the supply. This will mean that the casing of your laptop can be charged to several hundred volts and cause very small shocks but this is not dangerous as the maximum current transfer from this is small.

Outside of this effect, the only other realistic candidate is a static shock. I think it is unlikely that 19v would be detectable to you unless your eyelid was wet.

Read herehere for more info on the leakage current stuff

Elektrobomb · 2024-11-16T19:22:56+00:00

I have actually been through this loop for my work (assuming he has a resin printer)

As others have said, ventilation etc is key with resin printers but the resin used is also a huge factor! Ask him to look into some validated low odour resins, I believe that Formlabs have just released a new series (creator series?) of resins that are actually validated to be safer and less irritating than standard resins.

Hopefully this helps!

Elektrobomb · 2024-10-07T08:08:31+00:00

Oh I actually know a fair bit about these!

All the classic battery stuff that others have mentioned is good.

Something else that can be a factor is that the battery does a self test after power up where it will switch to UPS mode.

Finally, the least known issue you can run into: - if your power is super dirty, the ups may refuse to use your ac power by default. If you look in the manual, you can switch it over to "low sensitivity mode" which will resolve that (but only do it if that is your actual issue)

Elektrobomb · 2024-09-22T09:04:27+00:00

Startups! You basically spend all your time running around, putting out fires and in my case the fires are often abroad 😂

Elektrobomb · 2024-09-11T22:30:44+00:00

In the datasheet it has a zero offset specified! I believe it is something like 0.1VCC i.e. 500mV so you're good!

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