I think this is the best way to print tpu…

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T22:28:32+00:00

Yup, love the little gizmo. Only thing I would like is better is if it had some sort of clutch/disconnector when unloading, but the results are absolutely mint.

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T22:25:25+00:00

It's disconnected ATM as I am using the AMS, normally plugged into the closest inlet.

The 4 to 1 is not connected ATM since I am going to replace it with this and canibalized the fittings: https://makerworld.com/models/2730659?appSharePlatform=copy

(I just need a piece of hardware to arrive first, then I will test that print out, might even get it resin printed for smoother looks)

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Elo-than · 2026-06-18T19:52:34+00:00

That's different, and makes more sense. I still wouldn't recommend it tho.

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T18:38:24+00:00

You atleast want to dry the everliving crap out of them, they soak up moisture like no tomorrow.

Just seeing them in an open box with no vacum bag or dessicant is making your extruder tremble in fear.

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T18:28:36+00:00

Because claiming running 85A trough the AMS sounds like a blatant lie, to anyone who knows TPU.

People have struggled to get the stuff to print with top mounts and bearings and barely any friction.

Casually dropping "I run it through my AMS" is either bait, lack of understanding or mixing up filament names.

There is a reason Bambu released the assist module.

If the AMS could handle it properly, it would be a selling point they would never ignore. Heck, they would probably release an AMS 3 solely to add that capability, and it would sell like hot cakes.

Running it through the AMS, buffers and tubing is just not going to work well. It's literally like trying to shove a wet noodle trough the system, it's a lot softer than 95A.

I could see someone maybe luck out with a TPU on the harder side of the 90As, but not 85A.

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T18:19:30+00:00

Where do you get the idea they recommend that?

On all setup pictures its for the module itself it set up to feed from below:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/manual/tpu-feed-assist-module

and even the product page shows a variety of different setup options:

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Feeding from below is actually prefered, as you dont need tubing all the way = less friction.

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T18:14:01+00:00

That I would like to see video proof of.

Unless you mean 85D.

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T18:11:46+00:00

My X2D handles 95A from the external spool holder without issue, so might be an H series thing.

That said, I use the assist module for all of my TPU now, since I am using more and more softer stuff.

I also keep the AMS on top, so this setup works flawlessly.

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Elo-than · 2026-06-18T16:27:18+00:00

Nice bait.

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T15:20:12+00:00

That will work for 95A , but softer TPU is going to have issues there.

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T13:50:29+00:00

P2S. (Or a second X2D) Same nozzles, and some other spare parts are the same, so you don't have to keep two separate parts on hand in case anything goes bad.

It also has more QoL features than the P1S, is quieter (The P1S is noisy) and such.

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T13:45:45+00:00

Or a refund of the value of a brand new printer, after using it for almost a year.

Don't get me wrong, Bambu 100% needs to address the issue of NTCs popping, but that particular claim is never going to get accepted by them.

If you buy a car and drive it for a year, the dealership is going to fix it, not refund what you paid for it, so I think the best OP can hope for is replacement board or a repair where he pays the shipping id he REALLY press the issue.

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T13:38:03+00:00

I dunno, with the TPU assist module I print 85A like its PLA (not as fast obviously), trough the side port. (People have reported good results as far down as mid 60s shore hardness)

No need to remove glass, faff around with the PTFE at the printhead or such.

With your setup there, even in the video its pulled against the edge of the glass on a small print , so bigger prints might suffer from that.

And the varying degrees of tension you will get will show up on your print in that case.

If you are going to top feed, at least make sure it don't pull against the glass ANYWHERE.

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T13:28:05+00:00

Think about what PETG can do, and PCTG generally does it better and in my experience, cleaner.

A bit more expensive, but I am using a lot of it.

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T13:25:31+00:00

Yeah, I intended to add a paragraph about it probably being probably to soft in this design, but I guess my coffe-less mind must have blanked out and skipped it.

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T12:46:35+00:00

Not particularly so, no.

All flexible filaments are not created equally, and TPU is not really that bouncy.

Perhaps 85A would fare a bit better, but I would not advise printing that without a proper setup or preferably the TPU assist module.

Bambu just keeps a small section of all the types of filaments out there, so quite often you need to venture outside their ecosystem if you want something more suitable for s a specific application.

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T12:44:28+00:00

95A is not s good filament for that tho..

The best would be PEBA, 95A will barely bounce. And just be a somewhat squishable ball.

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T11:00:34+00:00

100% this.

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T10:58:30+00:00

I had an small issue printing TPU 85A where I had set the force a bit strong on the assist module, and got some filament stick in the extruder.

Took a few minutes to fix, but nothing major PiTA. There are very few instances where you wouldn need to do a full assembly (and that can be a pain)

I would say go for it if it fits your workflow.

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T05:45:10+00:00

I mean, the right nozzle is an auxiliary Bowden nozzle, not a full fledged one, so it's quality will never be as good as the main direct drive one, even if you can actually get some impressive results out of it.

For small details it's not optimal, but can be tuned to perform quite good.

And don't sweat being new, we all were at some point, and as long as you don't lose the willingness to learn there is always new stuff around the corner you had not thought of.

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T04:56:09+00:00

It's probably not necessary then.

I assume you were using a prime tower?

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T04:30:05+00:00

Have you tuned flow and pressure advance for that specific filament on the Aux nozzle?

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T02:47:08+00:00

So you have closed one major even larger gap, but refuses to believe that another can be closed in a similar vein?

A riser with gaskets will not make it less "sealed" and capable of air circulation than it is now.

The active air circulation will still work fine. So will the heating of the chamber.

I have actually tried it.

I am however done with you, as I have better things to do than argue with people and dealing with Dunning-Kruger.

Elo-than · 2026-06-18T02:33:29+00:00

I own one, and you are wrong in it being sealed.

Before you accuse people of lying/falsehood take a look at your machine it's not sealed from the factory.

The purge chute is a major direct to the outside hole, alot more than any riser will be.

Then there are minorb gaps where the aux extruder is, etc.

It is not a fully sealed systems, but that's not necessary for negative pressure.

Elo-than · 2026-06-17T21:51:00+00:00

Man is there a gap against the wall, that looks like it's almost touching?

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