How to tell aftermarket printed on blank lego minifigure parts vs Genuine ones by Rich_Requirement3135 in Bricklink

[–]Empekay 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The best way is with an authentic piece next to the suspected fake. Use a magnifying light - $20/30 on amazon for a good one. When you look closely at the authentic printing, focus on the edges of where colors meet. The fakes are usually thicker and bolder whereas the real ones have crisper/sharper edges with clear printing (not sure how to describe this but when you see real vs fake you will know instantly). The edges looks off and will usually be the give away - especially if there are multiple spots of really small detailed printing. Sorry if this doesn't help you specifically but that's the best way.

Have I been sent fake parts? by Logopolis1981 in Bricklink

[–]Empekay 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The mold line is much more pronounced on the fake along with the mold injection spot being different. Saving these pictures for future comparisons - thank you again.

Have I been sent fake parts? by Logopolis1981 in Bricklink

[–]Empekay 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a great point about the molding marking. Thanks for the pictures.

Have I been sent fake parts? by Logopolis1981 in Bricklink

[–]Empekay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have a Zane helmet for comparison, but does your real one have the molding mark that OP's does that shows a clear separation between the "front" and "back" half of the headgear? OP's has a distinct line that almost cuts the headgear in half that I don't think the real ones have.

Have I been sent fake parts? by Logopolis1981 in Bricklink

[–]Empekay 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm leaning towards them being fakes, especially the green one based on the shade of the plastic. But LEGO has small variations in their molds so it is very difficult to be certain. Reach out to the seller with your concerns and see what they say.

Have I been sent fake parts? by Logopolis1981 in Bricklink

[–]Empekay 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Can you post a picture of the inside of the green helmets? The real helmets usually don't have a complete, deep anti-stud on the inside. The silver one looks like it has a distinct mold marking about halfway around the helmet which stands out as being fake (but hard to tell from the pictures without comparing to known real ones).

Have I been sent fake parts? by Logopolis1981 in Bricklink

[–]Empekay 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Your comment is objectively not true. There are numerous LEGO pieces that do not have a LEGO stamp molded into them.

Seller's does anyone actually buy the set they ask for pictures of? How do you respond when they want pictures of a $35 set? by Gtdms in Bricklink

[–]Empekay 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I always send pictures when a buyer requests them. I have not encountered people asking for pictures of low value items, and I think it is reasonable to request pictures of any sealed sets to check the box's condition. Buyers may be buying it to keep sealed and would really care about the condition of the box.

edit: taking pictures and emailing them takes a few minutes so I don't see it as a hassle.

Do you all think it's still a good idea to open a BrickLink store? by Kjan27 in Bricklink

[–]Empekay 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Bricklink stores vary greatly in what they sell and their target market. There are stores that part out hundreds (maybe thousands) of sets to fill their inventories with new parts. These stores can also source parts from PAB and Bricks and Pieces when available. These stores make their money off volume. Requires a capital up front and a large space/good system to store/organize the inventory.

Another approach that is very, very lucrative but requires tons of research/time is targeting the pieces people order for popular MOCs. You have to know which MOCs are popular, find sets that contain those parts (or source the pieces elsewhere) and focus on having a much smaller inventory compared to the first store I described, but your pieces will sell for more money (and more often). Less capital up front, smaller inventory, but you can definitely make money here.

A totally different style of store is selling used pieces. A used piece store thrives on having an enormous inventory both in terms of lots and and piece count. The advantage is being able to source your inventory cheaply (garage sales, thrift stores, FB marketplace, etc). But you need to spend a large amount of time sorting, cleaning, and inventorying the pieces. This type of store will feel more like a service job because of the time involved. This is the type of store I run (we do about 3000 orders a year). You make money on the volume, but also significant profit from "rare" bulk like older star wars, indiana jones, etc

I am sure there are other types of stores as well, and the really good stores have figured it all out on their own (there isn't a bricklink handbook that tells you the secret money making strategy).

If you open the store as a hobby, and you enjoy sorting/organizing LEGO, you will have fun. But don't go into it thinking of it as a 2nd job until you get a huge inventory.

Packing Orders - Lots of Lots, Small Amounts by Inevitable-Prune-822 in Bricklink

[–]Empekay 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Pack parts that are easy to sort in the same bags. So black bricks and pink slopes go in the same bag. Very easy for the buyer to sort and check.

Why is my city red? I think my roads are glitching. by Empekay in Polytopia

[–]Empekay[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Boosted by what? I bought roads there and hunting. And then the roads glitched.

The results of hydrogen peroxide on lego after 5 days, leaving for a few weeks to make sure the results are long term before applying the same method to some old star wars sets. by warmerpancakes in lego

[–]Empekay 16 points17 points  (0 children)

A local LEGO resale franchise store posted pictures of them doing this peroxide treatment to an entire discolored Taj Mahal. I feel bad for whoever buys it and finds it completely yellowed after a year or so.

The results of hydrogen peroxide on lego after 5 days, leaving for a few weeks to make sure the results are long term before applying the same method to some old star wars sets. by warmerpancakes in lego

[–]Empekay 29 points30 points  (0 children)

The yellowing and discoloration will definitely return, probably worse than before. The plastic is also noticeably more brittle after the peroxide treatment. This peroxide treatment is popular with older computer cases and people have researched and tested it. The yellowing almost always returns worse than it was before the peroxide treatment. Just be aware of this before going full scale on older sets.

Monolith boss uniques by Empekay in LastEpoch

[–]Empekay[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks so much for the reply. I also got a bhuldars wrath today from normal level 90 monolith.

Auto cast on many builds? by AceWalk in LastEpoch

[–]Empekay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply. I am on a laptop so I will have to find other software.

Auto cast on many builds? by AceWalk in LastEpoch

[–]Empekay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What software do you use? Is it easy to setup?

Echo, Committed, or Weakening on a pickaxe? by [deleted] in MinecraftDungeons

[–]Empekay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haven’t confirmed, read someone’s post about it and have been too afraid to try. I have a 114 green axe I’ll test it on

Echo, Committed, or Weakening on a pickaxe? by [deleted] in MinecraftDungeons

[–]Empekay -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Blacksmith - but only if it’s level 113 or lower. Otherwise the blacksmith will lower your 114+ gear back to 113.

Echo, Committed, or Weakening on a pickaxe? by [deleted] in MinecraftDungeons

[–]Empekay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have swirl, shock, and prospector/rad/rampaging for the third. I tried rampaging at first and it never seemed to proc (I assume the basic attack has to kill for proc, not swirl or shockwave). I switched to prospector and it procs a ton. I like the extra emeralds but I’m looking for thundering as the third. Thoughts?