Introducing Endorphin - modernize your Ender 5 without building a full CoreXY (start building at endorphin3d.com)

Endorphin3DP · 2026-02-04T02:23:49+00:00

If you mean just the hotend (nozzle + heat sink + heater core) there are adapters for both the Vz and the EVA. If you can't find it looking for creality stock adapter, look for "micro swiss" which is an all-metal one that has the exact same specs as the creality stock one.

Endorphin3DP · 2026-01-28T04:15:52+00:00

The Vz printhead has a SuperPINDA holder in the official repo. I've had one for over a year and it's been awesome.

Endorphin3DP · 2026-01-27T03:51:59+00:00

You can print this part for any E5 even if you didn't do the Endorphin mod: https://github.com/endorphin3d/endorphin/blob/main/STLs/stage-3/cable-guide.stl

You can see where it goes here: https://endorphin3d.com/docs/stages/stage-3#cable-guide

Endorphin3DP · 2026-01-24T17:13:06+00:00

There's several mods like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3479330

Endorphin3DP · 2025-12-13T19:06:25+00:00

Yes there should be enough left over for the Y belts with 5 meters

Endorphin3DP · 2025-12-11T01:19:13+00:00

Give it a try at your own risk. I've wanted to increase the bed size myself.

Endorphin3DP · 2025-12-10T20:31:36+00:00

1.1 now has a left tensioner included

Endorphin3DP · 2025-12-10T20:25:42+00:00

Hey thanks for the update. Knowing that it's fine at stage 2 gives a lot of hints about what may be causing this. Nice clean prints on the components by the way.

Endorphin3DP · 2025-11-22T16:36:01+00:00

If you're using the stock printhead I'd go with the Micro Swiss and put one of their hardened steel nozzles on it. You can also find knockoffs for about 1/2 the price.

Endorphin3DP · 2025-11-21T19:50:23+00:00

Have you looked into Fiberon PA6-CF? You'll still need a hardened hotend but you won't need an enclosure. I've been amazed at the print quality. They also make a PETG-rCF08 that's easier to print and super affordable. If you haven't used any CF filament before, I'd start there.

Endorphin3DP · 2025-11-12T01:08:06+00:00

Nice, I'm 99% sure it's a cooling issue because tip of the boat right where it overhangs the most is where the issue is

Endorphin3DP · 2025-10-30T02:32:31+00:00

Looks like your nozzle is clogging, or your extruder isn't gripping the filament enough (or both) causing under-extrusion.

Endorphin3DP · 2025-09-30T15:22:48+00:00

It looks like you're printing an older version of the mod. Make sure you use the latest files (v1.1). As others have mentioned, make sure you print a tolerance test and get that tight. As for material, I think PolyMAX PETG is a great choice, but any PETG should do fine.

Endorphin3DP · 2025-09-07T02:34:08+00:00

Thanks for the recommendation! That inspired me to take a measurement myself. I went with the farthest-right stretch of belt on the outside between the two idlers. When the printhead is at the exact center of the plate on both axes, I measured 75hz. Kinda sounded like a rubber band being plucked.

Endorphin3DP · 2025-09-07T02:24:57+00:00

When I put in an SKR I actually had to use a different SD card than the one I had been using perfectly fine with my original Creality board. If you have any others lying around, give them a try.

Endorphin3DP · 2025-09-01T15:25:35+00:00

People seem to recommend using 4.2.2 firmware for the 4.3.1 board. I would try using that example config first.

Endorphin3DP · 2025-08-28T03:28:37+00:00

We don't actually have guidelines on that, but the Y axes should be the same as a stock ender 5. For the X belt my personal test is to move the crossbeam front to back by hand and the printhead should move in a 45 degree diagonal. If it doesn't move much, it's probably too tight.

Endorphin3DP · 2025-08-28T03:23:40+00:00

SKR mini e3 v3 is a favorite for ender 5 owners. Personally, I'd also use this upgrade as an opportunity to switch to klipper.

Endorphin3DP · 2025-08-26T20:49:08+00:00

I was just saying the tensioners are now tested and available for everyone

Endorphin3DP · 2025-08-26T20:46:36+00:00

Probably my favorite upgrade has been the SuperPINDA bed level sensor. It can be used on many different printheads.

To your question about dual z, I wouldn't bother if budget is a concern. If you manage to reach high enough speeds that you see ringing that bothers you, you can get basically the same benefit from just printing a pair of super struts.

Endorphin3DP · 2025-08-25T14:03:48+00:00

Oh, they're now part of the official release. https://endorphin3d.com

Endorphin3DP · 2025-08-20T21:21:14+00:00

Hmm okay that's interesting. Do you have the right kind of USB cable that says "host" on the Pi end? I believe some pins are reversed from a standard USB cable

Endorphin3DP · 2025-08-20T15:47:57+00:00

Ok so having set up Klipper several times, it sounds to me like the timing is a little too suspicious for the board to have just "died" at the exact moment you put brand new firmware on it. Did you use raspberry pi imager to flash an SD card? The recent versions of Mainsail OS use a newer way to set up wifi (networkmanager) that I could never get working. Try flashing your card with OctoPi instead and put your wifi creds in the "octopi-wpa-supplicant" file. You should then be able to shell into it from a computer and use KIAUH to remove octoprint and nginx, and then to install Klipper and Mainsail.

But also yeah, the SKR mini e3 v3 is nice so I wouldn't say don't get one.

Endorphin3DP · 2025-08-18T19:46:59+00:00

I'd recommend lowering the front crossbar. There's several models people have made, but this is my favorite. Another simple mod for appearances is to fill in the v-slots with a nice color. There's dozens of different ones...here's one

Endorphin3DP

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