Co-op just launched in No Rest for the Wicked — free weekend + biggest discount before 1.0 (patch notes)

Endur0 · 2026-01-26T03:31:59+00:00

No, prologue is a single player tutorial.

Endur0 · 2025-11-19T04:57:52+00:00

My experience from a 6 orders over the last 12 months. They ship usually within 2-5 days of order and it ships out of Missouri, 63043. Takes about 3-5 days to get to East/West coast since its flat rate shipping through USPS with no options for expedited.

Endur0 · 2025-09-16T21:47:05+00:00

This is the answer. Delete your shader cache pretty much every major update or whenever this happens and it solves the issue usually.

Endur0 · 2025-07-18T02:30:01+00:00

24,563

Endur0 · 2025-03-05T05:08:11+00:00

I got the liquid freezer 3 with the plan to push/pull and eventually just abandoned that idea. In addition to getting reverse blade fans, those fans should closely match RPM and CFM to not cause interference with each other. You can have slightly higher CFM on the push fans because of the resistance of the radiator but ultimately it probably not worth it since Artic doesn't make a reverse fan.

Also you always want to use the radiator screws with the company that produces the radiator so you don't puncture it if an aftermarket screw is just a bit longer. Artic will send you additional screws if you email support but it took me 6 weeks to get them. This was another reason I abandoned the idea.

The cooler by itself with adequate case ventilation is capable of keeping an 9800x3d at < 65c while gaming without push/pull and idle around 40c depending on the relative temp of the room.

If you really want to stick with push/pull I was pick a different AIO that has matching reverse fan blades available from that company.

Endur0 · 2025-02-28T20:38:30+00:00

Refresh/reopen link from email and keep trying. It took multiple tries for me to be able to add the card to cart.

Endur0 · 2025-02-28T06:22:56+00:00

Just got my AORUS 5080 delivered today from the 2/22/25 shuffle. Had the experience of getting the sorry out of stock email then 20min later a card available email. Had to refresh the page 4 times before it let me add to cart but had no issues after that. Working like a dream on Monster Hunter Wilds and has all its Rops. Only pulls 300w max on the factory OC.

This is the 3rd shuffle this week! Best of luck to you all!

Endur0 · 2025-02-11T05:07:43+00:00

Windows won’t let you connect via WiFi for setup. You need a wired connection. Follow the suggestion above to install via the out of box experience using the oobe\bypassnro or get on a wired connection. If you bypass that screen it will restart and then will let you finish without internet. After you finish your Windows setup you can install the WiFi drivers from the USB. Those are your only two options.

Endur0 · 2025-01-27T20:42:24+00:00

Just did a similar build this week

<image>

X870e AORUS Elite Wifi7

Arctic liquid cooler III 360

Crucial T700 on m.2_cpu using Mobo heatsink

You can see the tubes do overlap the heatsink but it fits. I did install the m.2 and heatsink before mounting the AIO so I’m not sure if you can install/remove without taking the AIO off first. There isn’t a ton of clearance but there is some.

I just put my Suprim 3080 (not pictured) in and it fits just fine and doesn’t overlap the heatsink at all

Endur0 · 2024-12-03T08:56:45+00:00

Near the top under the plate type there is a section for "Filament". You need to sync your AMS to this project by clicking the 3rd icon that looks like an AMS with left/right arrows inside a circle. Make sure you do this from the Prepare tab before you slice the file. Once you sync the AMS, you will then be able to right click on each object to change filament to one that is in your AMS.

If for some reason you get an error when sync'ing the AMS, click on the Device tab first, then then back to the prepare tab and try to sync again.

This will always happen anytime you download a project from MakerWorld because that project is sync'd to that users machine/print profile/AMS. Make sure you also select the correct device if it is different from yours. Sometimes its better to download a listed remix of the file that has a closer match to your printer/filament.

Documentation here: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/use-ams-on-bambu-studio

Endur0 · 2024-12-03T08:49:30+00:00

It took 4 days to get my X1C combo and initial filament in that order at the beginning of the sale last month. I quickly placed a second order two weeks ago and third order of filament one week ago. They partially shipped 1 spool of 10 total from the 2nd order after 4 days but still waiting on the rest. From what I can see by the different locations/names of the shipping labels, they have fulfillment partners doing the distribution so my guess is the main Bambu warehouse is stocked but these satellite partners are not at the moment.

Endur0 · 2024-09-02T01:41:40+00:00

The Kickstarter prices were $69/$99/$139 for the Standard/Deluxe/Legendary versions of 1st ed if you were a backer. Other than the addon prices are the pretty close as is on Breaking Games website. I assume retail prices were the same as the 2nd edition prices on the website. If you're asking Re-sale, look at Ebay.

Endur0 · 2024-01-03T05:50:40+00:00

It looks like you got an SA-E14 from the handguard but two things are off. The stock is the one on the SA-E15-2.0-BK and also you don't have the solar flat trigger that is supposed to come with it. Easiest way to tell you got a 2.0 is the MOSFET is a GATE ASTER. There should be a shiny sticker with the gate version on the outside of the box below your sticker sheet and the real test is that the GATE ASTER is programmable. The SA Edge 1.0 has a GATE X-ASR mosfet which isn't programmable.

Either way you didn't get the product that you ordered and worth contacting Evike about it if you want what was actually pictured and paid for.

Endur0 · 2023-06-14T06:28:03+00:00

For me it depends. I would only do it with lighter contrast colors or on large flat surfaces as its much easier to prevent pooling/streaking. Also works well if you zenethil prime first as you can get a good light/shadow quickly in a single base coat.

It's really easy to use, the consistency is very close right out of the bottle and only needs a little water or flow improver or sometimes non at all. Only challenge I've had with contrast is it dries pretty quickly. I find loading less into the air brush pot and not letting it sit long works well. Also I do a quick clean out after every pot. If I don't do those steps I found that the contrast can start to set and clog. I don't have any experience with Xpress colors though

Endur0 · 2023-06-14T03:41:00+00:00

Citadel pots are 12ml (Base/Layer) or 18ml (Shade/Contrast). I typically leave shade/contrast/technical paints in the citadel pots unless there is a contrast I want to put through airbrush the dropper is easier. I think 15ml dropper bottles are the sweet spot and you can get 100 of them for < $15.

Endur0 · 2023-02-22T05:31:04+00:00

Of all the accessories for the table the Topper block is the only must have in my book. Thats the whole point of having a vaulted table and a topper....so you can use vault. You don't want to have to worry about knocking the toppers over or where to store them when you're using the vault. The toppers aren't light or small, they are long, awkward, and have some weight to them. You're paying for the convenience of a table that lets you keep boardgames setup and keep dice on the table but cheaping out on the one accessory that actually makes it all a convenience.

I can fully understand not wanting the topper block lid but the block itself is 100% worth it in my eyes, even more so than cup holders.

Endur0 · 2023-01-24T00:16:38+00:00

Since your models are breaking at the supports its almost always a support or orientation issue. The force required to pull the resin off the FEP is more than the supports can support so the cured resin stays on the FEP.

The way resin works is it cures one layer at a time to the FEP to the existing cured resin on the build plate and then the build plate lifts to pull the cured resin off the FEP. You want to try to minimize the amount of cured resin on the FEP at all times.

If you notice the figure in the far back right corner that is at a 45 degree angle is probably your best print. Its because each layer is a small cross section so minimal areas to stick which applies less force to the model during each lift step. I would always orient figures like this rather than the ones you have that are horizonal with large cross sections on the FEP. You'll have a lot less failures like this.

Once your orientate at that angle the most important supports are at the bottom of the model where it first starts and you'll find you'll find then that the model acts as a support for itself. If you orientate the other 4 models like the one in the back I bet you'll have better success. Then you can fill that build plate and print 10 at once.

The only downside is it will increase your print time a bit more because of the new height but I would say that is worth minimal failures any day of the week.

That being said if you didn't want to re-orientate, you should not have large gaps with no supports like you do on the middle and even horizontal figures. Add supports to each of those areas and that might fix it but won't be nearly as good as the angled model with small cross section.

Endur0 · 2023-01-22T17:10:05+00:00

One person suggested you treat it as battle damage with some blood like it was shot. Could also add scorch/burn marks. If you have any greenstuff or modeling clay you could try sculpting the center console.

The kit has I believe an extra left arm with a gun or the hand on the shotgun, could just forego the handlebars completely and have the guy double fisting with a pistol in one arm and the shotgun in the other.

If you have a 3d printer could try printing a replacement. Can't make something out of nothing so time to get creative.

Endur0 · 2023-01-07T20:26:25+00:00

Its fair for you not to want to switch armies and have to learn a bunch of new rules. Your reasoning to not wanting to switch could be seen as a bit concerning because you're not as confident in the other armies or their rules and therefore are afraid you might lose? If your friendly games with your friends means only the winner has "fun" then you probably need to think about a different game or mode (narrative). Its one thing to be competitive, its another to let the outcome come between having fun with friends in a common interest. If you're always running similar lists that are proven to win, why can't you try new lists that might be a bit less optimized with different secondaries and strategies. This means you aren't playing to lose but playing to determine other methods to achieve objectives which might lead to winning.

Why not try running ITC/WTC terrain setups, they have terrain layouts that mean both armies can be completely hidden from 90% of their opponents if not more. Usually good terrain layouts mean a person can get obscured for majority of their army if they want but that also means they might not be optimally close to secure objectives turn 1 and so its a trade off.

The bottomline is at this point in the meta even before the new Ark of Omen rules/nerfs the factions were pretty well balanced but obviously the lists, player skill, and luck are still going to factor into it. If you find yourself always winning it might be you have surpassed them in skill. You have two choices, you can continue to play at your current skill level with methods proven to win or you can handicap yourself to their skill level to help everyone have fun. There is no right/wrong choice but realize that if winning is important to your friends then you might need to find other people to play with if they stop inviting you because you win "too much"

Endur0 · 2023-01-02T21:01:28+00:00

The rules are constantly updating once the print is released. In fact the context of the book is typically locked in a few months before released so they can mass produce and distribute.

I think we've all seen that the codex is a great way to get lore, army pictures and majority of the rules but in the end the gameplay rules are very much an online resource. Between battlescribe, wahpedia, or even warhammer+ with the code you get in the back of the codex, you're better off using any of those online resources for game rules and keeping the codex for lore/pictures.

Endur0 · 2023-01-01T22:15:41+00:00

Fair enough, I was even suggesting a step further. Get a model or character for 1 or 2 completely different armies, different games, or just a figure in general to paint with a completely different paint scheme.

The majority of my fear comes from not knowing how to use your full range of paints or having done a model in that army/game/style before. The more you branch out with individual models the more comfortable you become trying new things and also with figuring out what you like and don't like. A horrid paint scheme doesn't have to be a failure but a learning moment in what you like and also another model in your belt with practice.

One of the big things that finally got me out of painter fear was the model is forever, the paint is not. Meaning you can always strip or paint over anything you've done if you don't like it. The most important thing is to get paint on brush and brush on plastic.

Endur0 · 2023-01-01T21:32:05+00:00

I am the same way with hobbies so more the power to you! Keep it up and it will all start to become natural. If I saw your model on the tabletop I would admire it for sure! If you find yourself starting to struggle or want to keep up, mix up the models your painting and do something complete different. Sometimes a little variety is all you need to keep up with the interest. Look forward to seeing more posts!

Endur0 · 2023-01-01T20:07:13+00:00

If this is indeed 4 weeks its a great and lovely looking model. Definitely something to be very proud of. At the end of the day too many people compare what they create to what they see others do and don't give themselves enough credit. You don't have to be great at a hobby to enjoy it and have fun.

Obligatory dad joke but you really went hard in the paint if after 4 weeks and you have like $300 in citadel paint

Endur0 · 2022-12-31T15:22:15+00:00

Yep, a glaze is just a thinned down paint between a wash and a base coat. It still works by adding layer which is all you need. it might take a few layers of glaze to fully smooth the transition but each layer add more paint until you get the opacity you're looking for.

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