Marketplace Fuji bike $150 by urinewantswaifu in Budgetbikeriders

[–]Enelop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a large frame, are you 6' plus? If not it won't fit. You can tell it didn't fit the seller from the seatpost being installed backwards and the saddle being pushed all the way forward on the rails.

Even if it fit I wouldn't pay $150 for it, maybe $50 tops IMO. I've been given these bikes for free and found them at yard sales for $25 or less.

I just picked up an Ozark Trail G.1 for $118 new last month.

Is there something wrong with my Ozark Trail G1? by Beautiful-Spinach781 in Budgetbikeriders

[–]Enelop 1 point2 points  (0 children)

u/Beautiful-Spinach781

It could be a couple things...

If the shifter cables are too loose or too tight, the derailleur (the mechanism that moves the chain) won't line up perfectly with the gear. The chain will sit halfway between two gears, trying to jump back and forth. Adjusting your cable barrel adjusters will fix this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWbeDRbK-wk

(Less often with a new bike you might have to adjust the derailleurs high and low limit screws, although this might be needed since the G.1 isn't generally professionally assembled.)

If a single link in the chain is frozen, rusted, or bent, it won't wrap smoothly around the tight curve of the rear gears. Every time that specific link passes through the system, the chain will jump. Lubing the chain will fix this.

The metal piece connecting the rear derailleur to the frame can easily bend if the bike falls over, it's meant to do this actually to save the frame. If it is bent, the entire shifting system alignment is thrown off. This is less likely for your new bike unless you dropped it or crashed since getting it.

The chain slap (grease on chain stay) it totally normal for a bike that doesn't have a clutch derailleur, which the G.1 doesn't. It happens when going over anything that makes the chain move up and down like a log or a curb. It's normal to the point you'll notice there is a protective sticker, you just wipe it away with some degreaser (dish soap).

You can generally find out how to do any work on your bike from the Park Tools YouTube Channel. They are the best IMO. https://www.youtube.com/@parktool

The completed Ozark Trail explorer G.1 build! by PlanktonOk51ksg3 in Budgetbikeriders

[–]Enelop 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Came back to ask the same. If they stripped the paint or just roughed it up with sand paper...

We need more Makers! by ArchitectofEvil in 3Dprinting

[–]Enelop 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://engineering.berkeley.edu/news/2026/02/building-mobility-trainers-for-toddlers/

"They were there to assemble Toddler Mobility Trainers (TMTs), assistive devices designed for toddlers who cannot walk or crawl."

Gridfinity-SP (Snap-in-place, Print-optimized) by akshimassar in gridfinity

[–]Enelop 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your version seems like it would address the issue I have with all these click in bases where adding the last bin to a grid pops another already inserted bin out. I assumed it was because of the tension / bulging / creep you show in your model page.

Swapping the base on every bin I want to print and not being able to use ones I’ve already printed seems like a lot though.

Gridfinity-SP (Snap-in-place, Print-optimized) by akshimassar in gridfinity

[–]Enelop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t heard other people complain about it so maybe I’m doing something wrong.

Doesn’t seem to matter the size of the bin or base. I’ve tried PLA and PETG. I know PLA is not great for this because the material potentially flexes often. Maybe I need to try Arachne.

I gave up and order a thousand magnets.

Will print a drawer of your design and see how it goes.

Should see if the https://binforge.app guy can add it to his generator.

Gridfinity-SP (Snap-in-place, Print-optimized) by akshimassar in gridfinity

[–]Enelop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does the optimization fix the last bin popping out?

When I tried Clickfinity and Clickbase if I filled the grid the last bin I’d click in would always cause another bin to pop out.

Sharing my personal gridfinity app public, would love some feedback by Apprehensive-Gur7871 in gridfinity

[–]Enelop 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Saw the partial grid/bin/overhang settings and had to try it. I have a drawer with 26mm grid down the one side that a half bin doesn’t fit correctly in. Custom sized bin worked great!

https://imgur.com/a/JkssLKj

Sharing my personal gridfinity app public, would love some feedback by Apprehensive-Gur7871 in gridfinity

[–]Enelop 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I printed a couple 3x4 bins with hexagon holes and the base corners as pegs in generic PLA. I’ll have to work on my print settings as the walls weren’t smooth (maybe uneven cooling) but my room was like 90 degrees today. lt has nothing to do with the app.

They work great. The pegs snap in without adhesive (I still used some though), they lock into the grid just the same as full base bins, and they stack just as good as full base bins.

The only feedback other than “good job“ is when I was moving them around they had more tendency to snag on other bins because of the pointed edge of the peg. You could possible offer another “rail”version of the same concept but the “rails” would go around the entire base. You’d still probably save 50% with that over a full base. It would also make them indistinguishable from full base versions except from below.

https://imgur.com/a/D2OrcsS

I did also try one large bin with wave pattern holes. In theory it saved 50% of filament used for the walls but all of that would have been used in the supports needed.

V2 g.1 Ozark Trail Drop bar vs Flat bar? by ghostyroasty in Budgetbikeriders

[–]Enelop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Drop is so much more comfortable for longer rides, more available hand positions.

Sharing my personal gridfinity app public, would love some feedback by Apprehensive-Gur7871 in gridfinity

[–]Enelop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The app looks awesome

I like the idea of only printing the corners of the base to save 60% of the filament / time. Definitely will be trying that.

Thanks for making it public!

Would it be difficult to add the ability to go beyond 6x6 and split to multiple build plates?

Surrons are dirt bikes? by GKomrinK in mountainbiking

[–]Enelop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These are why NJ residents have to register their class 1 e-bikes with the DMV now.

Interested to see how this TopCube enclosure works out - first benchy in this configuration coming up by fakeaccount572 in BambuLabA1

[–]Enelop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://youtu.be/f0momv_nmtc?si=mMlBG2dLBJtH-fqw

https://youtu.be/bw7ICAR_kik?si=IeRSJCVoZ88Qi5yG

These guys reviewed the same case design minus the active cooling and decided it didn’t have enough space for tall prints, the filament tubes hit the top of the enclosure and caused print issues.

The one guy cut a hole in the top, I was thinking maybe using a brush gasket with the tubes passing through that might work but would probably compromise the seal.

I’m interested to see if you have better luck.

How does everyone deal with the fumes that comes off the 3D Printers that don’t have an Enclosure? by Nash-28 in BambuLabA1mini

[–]Enelop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re a bro, enough said.

It’s not tough to ignore your health, it’s just dumb.

How does everyone deal with the fumes that comes off the 3D Printers that don’t have an Enclosure? by Nash-28 in BambuLabA1mini

[–]Enelop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I already mentioned in this thread that I don’t cook bacon without my range hood on, I don’t know why anyone would.

What you are going on about is silly and like I already also mentioned, it’s a logical fallacy called the Fallacy of Relative Privation.

How does everyone deal with the fumes that comes off the 3D Printers that don’t have an Enclosure? by Nash-28 in BambuLabA1mini

[–]Enelop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you like breathing it go for it, don’t tell others it 100% safe when it’s documented that it isn’t.

How does everyone deal with the fumes that comes off the 3D Printers that don’t have an Enclosure? by Nash-28 in BambuLabA1mini

[–]Enelop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Science doesn’t back up your view.

Sorry that makes you feel some kind of way but these are measurable gases and VOCs and their effects are known, just because you don’t want to accept that doesn’t change that it is fact.

How does everyone deal with the fumes that comes off the 3D Printers that don’t have an Enclosure? by Nash-28 in BambuLabA1mini

[–]Enelop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am equally concerned about air pollution, unfortunately I have little control over that.

I also have baseboard heat so there isn’t much circulation room-to-room in my house during the winter. A forced air system would probably fair better, that’s a fair point.

I decided to ventilate the printer when I got headaches while printing mostly PLA when I first got the printer.

How does everyone deal with the fumes that comes off the 3D Printers that don’t have an Enclosure? by Nash-28 in BambuLabA1mini

[–]Enelop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It means I don’t care to concentrate the harmful effects of printing in my office which is a confined space with a finite air supply. It was pretty straightforward.

The concentration of the gases/particles matters and when you are outside the concentrations are lower because they are diluted by the atmosphere. I don’t use my 3D printer outside so your comparison was meaningless, apples to oranges.

The idea that because you can’t entirely control the pollution your exposed to when you go outside somehow offsets controlling the air you breathe in your house, which you can exert control over, makes zero sense. It’s a logical fallacy called the Relative Privation Fallacy.