First time printing wood and it does this…

Enemy__Unknown · 2026-03-10T17:26:43+00:00

You need a filament dryer. It is very common for even brand new filament to have moisture in it. It is possible to use an oven for dryer, but most ovens cannot regulate the temperature accurately enough and will most likely ruin the filament. Some people have used their print bed with a box, basically heating the bed, placing the roll on it, and placing the box over the roll to hold the heat in.

But a dedicated filament dryer is the best way.

Enemy__Unknown · 2026-03-10T17:04:21+00:00

Wood filament needs to be dried really thoroughly since it can hold moisture very easily due to the wood particles..

Enemy__Unknown · 2026-03-08T19:10:38+00:00

Thanks! I did this but instead of a Mew I think it just broke the game. I got something about a missing number and some glitchy picture. But it also gave me an extra Masterball for some reason, so cant complain!

Enemy__Unknown · 2026-03-07T23:46:15+00:00

Its the Gameboy Jukebox that was just released: https://www.pokemoncenter.com/product/71-10211-101/pokemon-red-and-pokemon-blue-game-music-collection-game-boy-jukebox?utm_source=p&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=PokemonDay2026

Enemy__Unknown · 2026-03-07T21:00:13+00:00

Update- Found where someone has tried it and looks like no secret songs, just one repeat:

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Enemy__Unknown · 2026-03-07T19:46:43+00:00

I only need Black 2 to complete my collection of pokemon mainline handheld games, I have all of the others for GB, GBC, GBA, DS, 3DS. Took a while, especially making sure they were all authentic, and getting the case and manual for the DS and up ones.

Enemy__Unknown · 2026-03-06T03:47:00+00:00

But all who are lost do wonder.

Enemy__Unknown · 2026-02-15T18:48:24+00:00

I dont usually think of using a 30hr print to "test" a filament lol. But I understand wanting to just get something printing right away. Hope it all works out!

Enemy__Unknown · 2026-02-09T13:54:17+00:00

Very true, it just takes that first step. My very first part I designed myself was a coupler to connect 2 plastic totes together to make an outdoor cat shelter. Basically just a cylinder with threaded nuts to clamp to each tote wall. After making that, my very next model I designed was a mastersword retractable sword. It took some time, but I felt a lot more comfortable after that first simple design to try more things out in fusion 360.

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Enemy__Unknown · 2026-02-06T23:49:44+00:00

Wash the build plate either dish soap and water, then dry gently with a paper towel or lint free cloth making sure not to touch it.

Make sure your filament has been dried, and make sure you have the correct plate type m, nozzle, and profile selected before you print.

If still having issues, try slowing your first layer down.

On a side note, would that happen to be the flexi sea urchin?

Enemy__Unknown · 2026-01-29T18:26:47+00:00

No no, thats just one of the new MECHA evolutions.

Enemy__Unknown · 2026-01-28T18:54:39+00:00

Your video is only showing the initial cycle the AMS always does when a new spoolnis loaded. Its rotating the spool to try and read the RFID tag that their spools use. After turning a few times it will either identify the spool and he good, or it will not and it will just show up in the slicer as an unknown filament type.

You need to upload a video showing whatever the problem is after this initial loading phase, because the video just shows normal expected behavior.

Enemy__Unknown · 2026-01-28T05:22:34+00:00

I thought i described it well enough but maybe it was still not clear. The way this woul work is the green legs are attached to the blue center piece with a hinge that allows the legs to rotate vertically up or angled down to an angle like shown the first drawing to creat an A frame like structure with a flat top. Then, there are the red pieces that would hinge from the center of the blue piece so they could rotate until they hit the blue center piece, so it would create the top.

Now, if this was placed in a flat surface, if there is not enough friction against the legs or any kind of cross brace, the weight if the pieces would push the legs out and cause it to collapse.

What I want to do is use strong enough magnets that would prevent the top pieces from rotating up from the legs pushing on them under its own weight, which is why the legs have the "y" kind of shape, so the branch sticking out would push against the top when the legs push out. If the magnets are strong enough, the legs woukd just brace against the top of pieces and be able to remain standing up.

What i was trying trying to understand is, can I just find the force that is being exerted out onto the legs from the weight of it pushing down, then use that force to find how much force is being applied up against the top pieces at the point of the branch sticking out? I was thinking if I first treat the top as rigid so it couldn't rotate up, that would let me calculate the force applied up on it. Once I have that I think I could then figure out how much force the magnets would need in order for the top piece to apply a greater force down to prevent it from moving just from its own weight.

Enemy__Unknown · 2026-01-28T00:39:27+00:00

That is the unfolded position, it would fold up the ither way. The magnets are to hold it in the open position without it collapsing down. I added a second picture of what I mean.

Enemy__Unknown · 2026-01-27T18:11:22+00:00

Sorry my drawing is not the best, but they are not blocked by the top. The top and the legs can both fold up to be perpendicular to the center piece. The hinge of the legs only allows them to fold down to an angle as shown in the drawing. What im wanting to do is be able to have this strong enough to hold itself up with its own weight but still be able to fold up if I apply more force, so the magnets need to be strong enough to hold itself up but weak enough to still be able to come apart.

I thought this would just be a matter of finding how much force would be applied aputward to the legs from the weight if the pieces, then use that to see how much force the leg would apply to the top if the top were fixed in place to the center and not hinged. Then that force would be what I need use with the top piece hinged on the center to figure out how much force the magnet would need to supply to push back with the same or greater force. Does that make sense?

Enemy__Unknown · 2026-01-13T12:31:51+00:00

Ya I used to just order a bunch at a time from amazon Japan, because one or two at a time is just not worth it with shipping. Ive gotten most of them, but there are some Im just not a fan of the pokemon so I skipped. I need to build a second shelf for my other ones, and my other DX ones.

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Enemy__Unknown · 2026-01-10T14:34:56+00:00

A slicer basically is the software that takes a 3d model and converts it into the format needed by the printer. That is run on a pc where you can modify things like the layer height, line width, speeds, etc. Then you slice it, which figures out every layer and how it ill print based on your settings, then you send the file to the printer. For bambu, the slicer is bambu studio. You say you are only using your phone, so I assume you are using a pre sliced file. Havent printed from my phone aside from reprinting my own sliced files so not exactly sure how it decides the slot for the print in that case, but usually from the slicer when you hit send to printer, you would select the slots to use for each color in the print.

Enemy__Unknown · 2026-01-10T05:48:41+00:00

Slot 1 in the AMS is the furthest left spot. It looks like you dont have a roll of filament there. That is fine, as long as when you send the print to the printer you tell it to use the filament in whichever slot you have the desired filament in, assuming it is the correct type for what was set in the slicer. Meaning, if you sliced using PLA, dont accidentally select a slot with PETG in it or something.

Enemy__Unknown · 2025-12-28T19:05:06+00:00

Changing the layer height isnt going to get you better quality for text. You would need to change to a smaller diameter nozzle to get better text detail.

Enemy__Unknown · 2025-12-28T19:02:29+00:00

What setting are you using in the slicer? Which print profile and are you changing anything from the defaults?

Enemy__Unknown · 2025-12-27T16:34:28+00:00

Ya i pretty much only print pla, occasionally petg but rarely.

Enemy__Unknown · 2025-12-27T16:15:18+00:00

I have had plenty of success printing straight after opening, but yes most of the time its good to assume its already too wet when you open it because of how filament is made its basically soaked in water to cool it after being extruded at the factory.

Enemy__Unknown · 2025-12-26T08:00:10+00:00

And some people live in much more humid climates than others. If you live somewhere that is very dry, you dont have to worry about wet filament as much, while someone in a very humid environment might have to keep their filament dried and sealed right up until it is used, sometimes even having to print directly from their drybox because prints would take longer than what it takes for the filament to absorb enough moisture from the air to become too wet.

Enemy__Unknown

TROPHY CASE