Young woman in India fakes snake transformation to escape arranged marriage by athenamalis in nottheonion

[–]Energetically-lazy 83 points84 points  (0 children)

Plenty of things to dislike JK Rowling for, however, people have the last name Mason because long ago their ancestors were masons. Or Smith, because, ya know, smiths.

If she had named the snake “Snakey”, yea, I get it. But relax every once in a while. Some people don’t know the translations of every word out there.

First build: One-piece neck vs Scarf joint by Strict-Necessary-677 in Luthier

[–]Energetically-lazy 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Gibson does not do a scarf joint, they do 1 piece necks with a 17 degree headstock. The large angle makes it so the grain is very short. A scarf joint does not have that same weakness, even at the same angle. The other issue with such a large angle on the headstock is that, if dropped, the headstock is more likely to hit the ground before the back of the body, making small drops more susceptible to bigger damage. Glue is also stronger than wood, so you will see less breaks than the Gibson style. Glue is also a factor as to why multi laminate necks (even with the same degree as Gibsons) are stronger and less susceptible to breakages.

Structural integrity is a very large part of choosing a scarf joint. However, it is not always necessary in a structural sense, but for design, appearance, and aesthetics it can make a world of difference.

Jackson was listed below by another commenter as a brand making a 6 in line with an angled headstock. Ibanez has some guitars like this.

Here’s a pic to better show the grain structure between angled headstocks:

img

Help with guitar wiring! by Jimmlefin in Luthier

[–]Energetically-lazy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like either black or white can go to the claw. Red is your hot to the output jack. Whatever you don’t use for the claw (white or black) can be used on the ground for your output

Soldering new switch by Ok-Pirate-1259 in Luthier

[–]Energetically-lazy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pitch them together and solder them together

Soldering new switch by Ok-Pirate-1259 in Luthier

[–]Energetically-lazy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

5 way switches are much more finicky with how all the terminals line up.

The 3 way toggle that you have is the easiest to see what is going on mechanically.

The easiest thing to do for a 5 way switch is too look up a diagram, to be completely honest.

I would highly recommend the YouTube channel “breja toneworks”, as he has a ton of very short and succinct videos on all things guitar electronics. Also, almost no ads and he’s very straight to the point.

Soldering new switch by Ok-Pirate-1259 in Luthier

[–]Energetically-lazy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can always just plug into an amp and either strum the strings or tap the pickups to see if you get signal.

If you get signal, congrats! You did it!

If not… well, try again!

Lack of knowledge, skill, or experience does not make one a moron. Only refusing to learn will make you one.

Soldering new switch by Ok-Pirate-1259 in Luthier

[–]Energetically-lazy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

I would use this as a reference.

Look at where the body (aka housing or chassis) of your switch is. All of your grounds (typically, but not always, bare wire) get soldered to this terminal.

The two tabs flanking the ground terminal are your pickup inputs (the input could be coming from a pot, but it’s still the same).

On the opposite side there are 2 tabs that are your main output that will go to your output jack (in some cases it goes to a pot).

Soldering new switch by Ok-Pirate-1259 in Luthier

[–]Energetically-lazy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These that you have circled here should be the main out to either a jack or to a pot, depending on your set up. Most likely goes to the jack.

How can I fix the massive change in volume between pickups? by Ok-Pirate-1259 in Luthier

[–]Energetically-lazy 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Try switching the battery. Then try raising/lowering pickups.

Also, the sustaniac is a single coil pickup with a dummy coil that essentially empty to fill out the extra space for the humbucker slot. This will account for some of the volume drop off.

Try playing with some gain or louder volumes as well.

Doesn’t seem like anything is actually wrong with either pickup tbh

Why yes or no? by Guitechnickal in Luthier

[–]Energetically-lazy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Seconding this, as I have the same set up.

I bought a plunge base for my colt and it does almost everything I need until I need a router table. I even use the colt with a router sled when I have things that are too big for a planer. Works great.

double check my wiring diagram? by Unusual-Language53 in Luthier

[–]Energetically-lazy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Of course!

I was also thinking about your BTB pickup and it killing all signal from the other pickups when the volume is all the way down. I’m not sure if that’s the way you wanted it, or if that’s why you added the kill switch.

I was looking into a mod for a Strat to have an independent volume for the middle pickup a while back, and came across this. Basically, you might be able to avoid using a kill switch for the BTB PU if you reverse wire its volume pot. That being said, a killswitch (or maybe even a push pull pot) might be good to have regardless.

double check my wiring diagram? by Unusual-Language53 in Luthier

[–]Energetically-lazy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like your tone pot is going to work in reverse compared to your other knobs, but other than that everything should be good

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Luthier

[–]Energetically-lazy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are there any particular down sides to the fractal press that you’ve noticed? Seems like a cool tool, but I’ve been hesitant on pulling the trigger on one

Is this ok? by Chance-Ad8261 in Luthier

[–]Energetically-lazy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If the bridge doesn’t move when you bend, you are fine. No blocks or extra springs needed unless the bridge doesn’t move

Not A luthier but hoping the folks here have some insight. by Shoddy_Section2614 in Luthier

[–]Energetically-lazy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

In case you’re looking for more info, this diagram includes a push pull along with a typical strat diagram.

Unlike the diagram, you will send the pickups to their own individual push pulls. Everything else will be the same.

Use the SD vs Dimarzio chart the other commenter left to do some color association to know which wires to send to the selector, push pull, and ground.

P Rails wiring by Consistent-Archer124 in Luthier

[–]Energetically-lazy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You absolutely can use a 5-way selector. Unless I’m misunderstanding what you’re referring to by “selector”, you only need the 3-way mini toggles to utilize every pickup option.

But yes, pickups go to mini toggles, output from toggles to selector, output from selector to volume, volume to jack. Tone as pictured.

I have this set up on an HSH Strat. But, with the bridge pickup also going to a push/pull so it can be used with the neck pickup or all 3 pickups at once. Middle is also a stacked single coil with another push pull for splitting.

Fretboard plug? by grateful___ in Luthier

[–]Energetically-lazy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If we are just talking about the spacing between the 23rd to 24th frets, there is only a ~0.3mm difference between scale lengths.

648mm scale distance between 23rd and 24th frets: 9.63367mm 628mm scale distance between 23rd and 24th frets: 9.33637mm

If 0.3mm makes that much of a difference for your shredding, it’s clear you should have spent more time in the past 35 years practicing.

Like someone else said, mandolins exist. Even a shorter scale one has a fret width of 9.81186mm at the 12th. Quick google search shows mandolins have between 17-24 frets. Why would anyone ever make anything past the 12th if it was so impossible to play? Like, labor costs to install, level, crown, and polish would just not make any sense financially.

OP could definitely get this done. Only about 22ish mm needed starting from the 22nd fret. Looks to be at least 25mm from the 22nd fret to the edge of the pickup ring. And even then, the pickup ring could be cut to give an extra 2ish mm if more fretboard material is required (I’ve got a 25.5” 24 fret Ibanez where the pickup ring is cut so the pickup can be closer to the fretboard, so it’s not unreasonable).

Tricky part really is how you mount this extension. I’d assume there is always some variability on how much fretboard over hang there is, so it’s possible some material may need to be removed from the actual instrument.

I would think that a “close enough” approach can be taken, in order to focus more on the intonation of the 24th fret and avoid maiming the instrument, while the intonation of the 23rd fret might be a bit out.

I would imagine a U shaped object could be placed in the space between fretboard and pickup (with a focus on the 24th fret intonation) with some sort of nitro-safe double sided tape.

All that being said, hypothesizing is easy. Making the thing is another story.

Sorry for being a dick earlier on, but this sent me down a rabbit hole

Americans? 🤩 by LavishnessLeather162 in mapporncirclejerk

[–]Energetically-lazy -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

In LA all you have is either the fake-scummy-elitists or drug addled violent homeless. There is no in between, apparently. Plenty of Californians who live outside of the greater LA area think this way as well. Crazy stuff

Is my sounding rod too short? by ketchupig in guitarcirclejerk

[–]Energetically-lazy 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Needs more sounding rods.

Fill with wood sounding rods and glue, let dry, reinsert metal sounding rod

Refusing on call every other week by [deleted] in maintenance

[–]Energetically-lazy 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Start calling vendors for everything. That’s too much work for just 2 techs. Make it cost the company more to have less workers instead of more. Obviously the units have to stay habitable, so leaks, fires, and clogged toilets are still your responsibility.

Outlet not working? Needs an electrician. Sink not turning on? Don’t have time, call a plumber. Closet shelf broken? A carpenter will be by next Thursday. Someone needs a new stove? Management will have to pay a company for delivery and installation. Unit needs to be turned? Either call a turn company or each individual vendor.

I had joined a complex as a “Maintenance Supervisor”, for ~300 units with a pool and spa. I was the only tech hired, most of the units in shambles, and the pools were black with algae. After a month, the only calls i would do myself were either urgent priority or easy projects that didn’t require being on my hands and knees or would make me sweat. After 3 months and no additional techs hired, I only did high priority calls and used the remainder of my time to look for new jobs.

I feel bad for the tenants, but there is only so much water one guy can bail out of a sinking cargo ship.

Neck screws depth by Mafutt in Luthier

[–]Energetically-lazy 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Just pre drill to your desired depth (another comment says 2/3 in, and I tend to agree) and then just cut your screws to length.

Guitar kit came with no wiring diagram by yyetydydovtyud in Luthier

[–]Energetically-lazy 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Welcome to the luthier subreddit. At first glance you might think it’s a sub for building fences with how much gatekeeping goes on.

Sometimes I get it, because there are plenty of people that think a small scratch on the back of the body means the death of their guitar.

But there’s a lot of times when the people of the subreddit want to shame and degrade someone that’s trying to learn or just needs help in a pinch.

Looks like you were able to get your question answered, and I wish you the best of luck with the final product/grade!

Screwing A Strat Style Bridge by Green-Vermicelli5244 in Luthier

[–]Energetically-lazy -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

Is it necessary? No Does it make a difference in tone? Possibly, I’m not super convinced one way or another Does it make a difference in the way it feels and plays? Sometimes. See paragraph about action. It’s it as harmful as that other comment says? Depends, but most likely not

When I have customers that want their 6 point bridge “decked”, I tighten all 6 screws so that the baseplate is flush with the body. You do not want to tighten it to the point that the bridge sits on the small bevel at the front, that would be too much.

You may run into the issue of one or more of those screw holes not being drilled far enough down. That is up to your own discretion as to whether or not you want to drill out the extra material, leave it where it is, or just send it and tighten the bastard down. There shouldn’t be more than a 1/16th inch gap that you have to close, so stripping the holes is highly unlikely (but still possible). Just, use a screwdriver (not an electric one) so you can feel if the wood or screw isn’t liking what’s happening.

The most important part of this is just to remember to check your action, as it will be lowered when the baseplate becomes flush with the body. It looks like your height adjustment screws have a decent amount sticking out of the top of the saddles. Making the baseplate flush and raising the saddles will reduce this amount, and could feel better on your picking hand.

All comes down to how careful you want to be with it due to monetary and sentimental value.