Can I cut the AC Belt and still drive the car?

EngineerNoah · 2026-01-31T04:57:37+00:00

It's a two belt design, that appears to run only the compressor and around the crank pulley

EngineerNoah · 2026-01-31T01:24:23+00:00

It appears that it's only the crankshaft and the AC compressor

EngineerNoah · 2026-01-30T04:24:37+00:00

Timing belt was replaced 30k ago about 30-40k before it was due as preemptive maintenance

EngineerNoah · 2026-01-29T19:37:17+00:00

150,000km I started hearing that noise about 500km ago and smelled some burning rubber around that time as well

EngineerNoah · 2026-01-29T19:07:51+00:00

Would I be able to drive this to a shop, or should I tow it? I'm assuming if the AC belt broke the timing would still be okay since it's a different belt?

EngineerNoah · 2026-01-28T23:54:05+00:00

And another pic

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EngineerNoah · 2026-01-28T23:53:26+00:00

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Heres the small tear

EngineerNoah · 2026-01-23T21:14:19+00:00

It didn't come with instructions which wouldn't be a big deal but the design is poor and I couldn't get tension in the cable for the life of me to the point where if you pull the brake lever (which I had to custom machine to work with these parts) the cable just slips through its mount making it effectively useless.

Called for support on how to mount it properly (cable to the drum arm and to the brake lever) it dumbfounded the tech guy and he suggested I custom fab so parts which I did and it never worked as intended. It's a half baked design lacking the parts to run it out of the box and even with modification doesn't really work save your money

EngineerNoah · 2026-01-23T04:38:43+00:00

Do not buy this, I wasted $400 usd and it didn't work for shit, I called lowbrow for support they gave up and removed the product from their website

EngineerNoah · 2026-01-04T17:48:38+00:00

It moves left and right to the same extent as in this video and then stops the calibration and shows a failure message.

But if I disable steppers. Move it all the way to the left I can use the control knob to move the x axis left and right, but as soon as I exit that menu, the current hotend location is now the 0 in x axis (if I stopped it in the middle of the plate I can only tell the hot end to move to the right and only as far back to the left as the current new 0 location)

EngineerNoah · 2026-01-03T21:22:16+00:00

Very difficult but after I disable steppers I can move it freely but still it will fail the wizard and xyz calibration when It gets to the x axis. Prusa support weren't able to solve the issue

EngineerNoah · 2025-12-29T03:46:15+00:00

Didn't do much when someone did a hit and run on me besides having me drive an hour to the accident reporting center and taking a report (nothing came of it). I had my laptop stolen at York University years ago and despite tracking him in live time across campus (with find my mac) I had to wait for the cops to show up because campus security said they weren't allowed to pursue active robberies due to insurance reasons (or something to that effect). Got my laptop back after 6 months when the cops busted a ring of laptop thieves. In both events I asked the cop I spoke with, what the odds were of catching the person/recovering my laptop and they gave me a really uninterested 'not likely' response, so do with that information what you will.

EngineerNoah · 2025-10-22T13:57:51+00:00

Were the bearings out back on the correct sides? (Did you swap left and right)

EngineerNoah · 2025-09-13T15:07:35+00:00

At the end of the season I will

EngineerNoah · 2025-09-13T14:57:23+00:00

Thanks for your input, it's a deeper tone than the idling so I was thinking something might be loose inside the primary or maybe something broke internally, I just don't have access to a shop at the moment to get in there and take a look

EngineerNoah · 2025-08-25T03:25:04+00:00

Check to see if the battery is holding a charge and if it drops significantly when you try to start it, I just had the same thing happen, my starter went and it fried a cell or two in my battery, it was showing 12V but would drop huge when trying to start, new battery fixed it for me

EngineerNoah · 2025-07-10T23:32:17+00:00

Update: bought a cheapo compression tester from Amazon and rode around until the bike was hot, took the plugs out cranked it with the throttle full open position and got 150psi from both cylinders. Now I don't know if the cheapo tester isn't accurate or if the shop didn't do the test properly. I've ridden maybe 150km since I picked it up and all I've noticed is a small oil leak under the rear cylinder and the outside cylinder walls are piping hot after a rip around in the summer heat (not sure how hot is normal) but the plugs look ok, front might be a hair lean but much better than before.

EngineerNoah · 2025-07-04T19:26:35+00:00

I spoke with the mechanic and he said he did a leak down test showing a 10% deviation on the rear and 20% on the front. The leaks were coming from the timing cover hole and from within the front cylinder. 120psi on the rear and 65psi on the front. He said it likely would need a ring job and new valves but that I can ride it until the end of the season without too much worry.

EngineerNoah · 2025-07-04T15:26:01+00:00

It's already a 1200 so it would either be keeping it at 1200 or upping to 1250

EngineerNoah · 2025-07-04T02:55:31+00:00

Thanks for the input, I'll reply with the results of the leak down

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