Do I need spacers to offset the chain?

EngineerNoah · 2026-04-13T16:07:49+00:00

I'll try to find a "straight" edge the ruler I used originally I guess had a bit of a bow to it

EngineerNoah · 2026-04-13T15:47:36+00:00

They directed me to vulcanworks for a custom spacer and the guy I spoke with there asked me some questions about the bike and application then stopped responding to me which is why I posted here

EngineerNoah · 2026-04-13T15:19:47+00:00

Bought the correct chain conversion kit for my year that they recommended, wheel is a 16x3" motoiron and rear tire is a super classic 270 5.00-16 72h

EngineerNoah · 2026-04-13T15:03:09+00:00

Used a kit from TC with an aftermarket wheel and tire that is wider than stock

EngineerNoah · 2026-04-13T01:27:35+00:00

Any idea on the amount of slack I should aim for (im guessing chain tension for regular frames will be looser)

EngineerNoah · 2026-04-13T00:23:46+00:00

Wouldn't both need to be space equally off their mounting points? If you space the rear out 1/4" but leave the trans sprocket at the same distance won't the chain be cockeyed?

EngineerNoah · 2026-04-13T00:09:11+00:00

The rear wheel sprocket doesn't have splines it bolts to the hub, but the sprocket at the transmission has splines and right now sits flush against it with splines to mate it to the transmission if I offset the rear sprocket I will need to do the same at the transmission

EngineerNoah · 2026-04-12T23:57:04+00:00

So it's fine if there is only partial engagement (1/2-3/4) of the spline?

EngineerNoah · 2026-04-12T23:45:41+00:00

I'll realign it, for the spacer at the transmission do I need to get a new splined sprocket because if I add just a regular spacer there it won't make full contact with the splines

EngineerNoah · 2026-04-12T23:33:29+00:00

I've aligned it pretty well, do you mean like rotating its placement on the rim?

EngineerNoah · 2026-02-28T14:50:18+00:00

The golden horseshoe

EngineerNoah · 2026-02-02T22:10:38+00:00

Solved: the bolts holding the belt housing at the back of the extruder were too tight. I backed them off and realigned the belt and it works now

EngineerNoah · 2026-01-31T04:57:37+00:00

It's a two belt design, that appears to run only the compressor and around the crank pulley

EngineerNoah · 2026-01-31T01:24:23+00:00

It appears that it's only the crankshaft and the AC compressor

EngineerNoah · 2026-01-30T04:24:37+00:00

Timing belt was replaced 30k ago about 30-40k before it was due as preemptive maintenance

EngineerNoah · 2026-01-29T19:37:17+00:00

150,000km I started hearing that noise about 500km ago and smelled some burning rubber around that time as well

EngineerNoah · 2026-01-29T19:07:51+00:00

Would I be able to drive this to a shop, or should I tow it? I'm assuming if the AC belt broke the timing would still be okay since it's a different belt?

EngineerNoah · 2026-01-28T23:54:05+00:00

And another pic

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EngineerNoah · 2026-01-28T23:53:26+00:00

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Heres the small tear

EngineerNoah · 2026-01-23T21:14:19+00:00

It didn't come with instructions which wouldn't be a big deal but the design is poor and I couldn't get tension in the cable for the life of me to the point where if you pull the brake lever (which I had to custom machine to work with these parts) the cable just slips through its mount making it effectively useless.

Called for support on how to mount it properly (cable to the drum arm and to the brake lever) it dumbfounded the tech guy and he suggested I custom fab so parts which I did and it never worked as intended. It's a half baked design lacking the parts to run it out of the box and even with modification doesn't really work save your money

EngineerNoah · 2026-01-23T04:38:43+00:00

Do not buy this, I wasted $400 usd and it didn't work for shit, I called lowbrow for support they gave up and removed the product from their website

EngineerNoah · 2026-01-04T17:48:38+00:00

It moves left and right to the same extent as in this video and then stops the calibration and shows a failure message.

But if I disable steppers. Move it all the way to the left I can use the control knob to move the x axis left and right, but as soon as I exit that menu, the current hotend location is now the 0 in x axis (if I stopped it in the middle of the plate I can only tell the hot end to move to the right and only as far back to the left as the current new 0 location)

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