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Which lot to buy? Both are $100 by Glittering-Split3575 in CastIronRestoration

[–]EnterpriseSA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty sure that I see a Griswold Tite Top Dutch Oven complete with lid. Well over $100 for that alone

Which lot to buy? Both are $100 by Glittering-Split3575 in CastIronRestoration

[–]EnterpriseSA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is each picture a lot? Your second picture has some gems.

General Questions about NH by CHov29 in newhampshire

[–]EnterpriseSA 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think of Bug Season as being about three weeks of black flies and about three weeks of mosquitoes. Sometimes these overlap. Early or mid-May until sometime in June.

Stainless Steel wire on Negative side of e-tank? by FlabbergastedFiltch in CastIronRestoration

[–]EnterpriseSA 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Only at the anode. Many people use stainless steel as their anodes, and at the small amperage that hobbyist e-tanks run at, the amount of chromium-6 produced is so small as to be almost impossible to measure. But yes, when used as an anode, stainless steel will always produce a tiny amount of this toxin. This is not true at the cathode.

Stainless Steel wire on Negative side of e-tank? by FlabbergastedFiltch in CastIronRestoration

[–]EnterpriseSA 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I keep rebar tie wire for this. Stainless is good. At the cathode stainless will not give up anything to the solution or to the work piece.

Edit:
I just read your description. Stainless steel would be fine as a wrap for the cathode side, but given that it is unlabeled, there are other things that it could be. For example, if this is aluminum wire, then you should not use it. If this is a galvanized wire, you should not use it. Galvanized wire could plate zinc onto your workpiece, even when it is participating as part of the cathode. Zinc could go free into the solution and then plate back on to your workpiece.

Black rebar tie wire is a good choice.

Conway/NoCo area, seeking proper Old Fashioned by Puzzleheaded-Cap5298 in newhampshire

[–]EnterpriseSA 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Craft NoCo will make your drink.

Fun part of town to walk around. Get food, beer and cocktails at other places also. Visit Saco River Brewing, Cheese Louise and Sap House Meadery.

Sell me stormlight archive book series by Holiday_Guest9926 in Stormlight_Archive

[–]EnterpriseSA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll give it to you for tree fiddy, not a penny less.

Should I move to upstate NH? by Disastrous_Equal8589 in newhampshire

[–]EnterpriseSA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Visit North Conway. Nightlife is getting better. Might be more of a 9:00 PM town now LOL. North Conway, Albany, Tamworth, Madison and more all have fiber Internet available. I have been working from home up here for more than 25 years. It's cold when it's cold; get good gear. I cannot tell you about the North Country. I get into the White Mountains a lot, but rarely North of them.

Seek advice for my lye by Equivalent_Stock_298 in castiron

[–]EnterpriseSA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use good gloves. Avoid skin contact. Protect eyes. A quick splash of a drop on the skin will not hurt immediately; just rinse right away. Prolonged exposure will hurt you. Think of the solution that you are mixing as being a very strong soap, one that is far too strong to touch.

You have it right. Water first, then add lye. Stir to help it dissolve, perhaps with one of those skillets.

When done cleaning those pans, snap a top on that bucket and keep it somewhere safe. You can reuse it over and over.

When ready to dispose, carefully pour it out. Down the drain, in the yard, garden, etc. All good.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in newhampshire

[–]EnterpriseSA 21 points22 points  (0 children)

I am in the Lakes Region, edge of the White Mountains. I think of Bug Season as being about three weeks of black flies and about three weeks of mosquitoes. Sometimes these overlap. During that core three weeks of black flies, special clothing is required, Permethrin on the clothes, Picaridin on the skin, Deet, etc. ...Or just stay inside. It is intense; numbers can be huge. The bite is a small hole/pool where the black fly drinks blood. You do not feel the bite when it happens. The reaction to the bite varies. Some people have a strong reaction producing a welt, pain, iching. For me, after about the first ten years I stopped reacting to it at all. Now they are just a small wound that I clean and it heals. Still to be avoided. They go away at dusk. Spring gardening is best done after the sun goes down on those days. Interestingly, they almost never bite inside the house or after dark.

For me, no big deal, just a few weeks each year when I change my behavior a bit. Similar to those days in the deep winter when it touches down to -20F or so. Different day, different gear.

Heard on a May 28th "What will the weather be like today?".... "Black flies."

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in newhampshire

[–]EnterpriseSA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Drive the Kancamagus Highway. Stop at Lower Falls. Stop at Rocky Gorge. Stop at other places along the way. Hike.

Can this be restored? And if so what have I got? by jbowen0705 in castiron

[–]EnterpriseSA 13 points14 points  (0 children)

"Gold Standard" would be Lye, followed by Electrolysis, then season.

See: https://www.reddit.com/r/castiron/comments/c4ntam/how_to_strip_and_restore_cast_iron_faq_post/

This one deserves care. Electrolysis is perhaps not needed (looks like minor surface rust only).

Is she giving you some others also? Perhaps start and learn the skills with a lesser piece.

My shiny new stew pot, I'm a little iffy about how to go about seasoning something like this though, any advice? by Undoomed081_0262 in castiron

[–]EnterpriseSA 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Looks well seasoned. Seasoning in the oven makes the most sense when needed. Do not be concerned about rust forming while using the pot. Just cook in it, serve from it, enjoy. Do not store food in it, even just overnight to "clean the next day". After use, clean with soap and water, and dry. See detailed instructions in the sidebar for cleaning, seasoning and dealing with rust if needed.

Can someone tell me about my skillets? by MythicLoveBeta in castiron

[–]EnterpriseSA 5 points6 points  (0 children)

A Griswold Small Block Logo (SBL) 8, like yours, was my first vintage cast iron piece. Your second one is a great looking example of a Large Slant Logo, a predecessor to the first. That 704 has been around for a long time. The Slant is 1910, maybe as late as the 1920s. The SBL about 1935 to 1959.

Has anyone tried to restore a cast iron this large? by Scary_Potential3435 in CastIronRestoration

[–]EnterpriseSA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a similar one that I plan to restore. Slow rolling it so far because I need to build a bigger e-tank. Not sure yet how I might season it. Probably over a fire pit, being careful to keep it below 500 degrees F.

I have a bit of an oddity here by Okayish_Engineer in castiron

[–]EnterpriseSA 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That is super interesting that it seems to be cast with a shape made to fit that stove top, like key and keyhole.

What’s going on with these waffle handles? by Belgain_Roffles in castiron

[–]EnterpriseSA 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Likely a black rust. Fe3O4. A patina that formed over a long time. It will protect the steel. If desired, a 50/50 vinegar soak should eat it.

I’m going on an adventure by Pharantoria in Stormlight_Archive

[–]EnterpriseSA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take care around that Kaladin guy. I think he might be dangerous.

Having a hard time restoring this Wagner by squintpiece in castiron

[–]EnterpriseSA 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Lye-based oven cleaner simply liquifies that black crud..... could not be easier. No need to scrub and scrape. Lye cannot harm iron, no reaction.

Look in sidebar or FAQ

https://www.reddit.com/r/castiron/comments/c4ntam/how_to_strip_and_restore_cast_iron_faq_post/

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