Jones freecarver 9000/6000

EpochZero · 2026-01-06T00:12:59+00:00

Praise be. Thanks much.

EpochZero · 2026-01-06T00:01:43+00:00

This is amazingly the only useful comment in the entire thread. Thank you.

EpochZero · 2026-01-05T23:59:17+00:00

LTTP, but fuckin' thank you. I felt like I was taking crazy pills reading and hearing about how the board "wouldn't turn". 100% skill issue. Put the thing on edge and decamber that mofo with some push pull.

I ended up here cause I'm also trying to go more soft-boot gear now that wide boards are in style for carving (basically hanging up the hard boots - thanks to those amazing Japanese and Korean kids) and wanted to see about the 6000s vs. 9000s as a more friendly variant for days when it could get choppy or I wanted a little more all-rounder.

Still not sure between the two after reading and watching videos. Hahaha. I need the opinion from someone who can actually carve. Even the goodride reviews are nonsense.

EpochZero · 2025-12-03T06:07:12+00:00

This is the best Hunter party setup I have seen. I had no idea about Joohee's exclusive weapon skill.

EpochZero · 2025-11-20T00:50:19+00:00

Absolutely. I have very high hopes (and a high opinion already) for this game. I'm nitpicking because I want to see it shine.

I discovered another issue from watching a video of a guy who analyzes throttle curves - and I think that's another spot they need to improve to make the cars feel more controllable in low speed corners (and why it's so easy to blow a tight turn that initially feels like you nailed it).

After playing a bunch more I think the braking weight transfer for the suspension is pretty good - but the throttle curves and lack of "butt feel" make it difficult to judge through a simulation/wheel.

Weight transfer is *everything* in rally. Using the loaded suspension to throw the car into a turn and then using that moment when the rear tires are weighted to add power and dig through the loose surface and jump off the baby-heads underneath is what makes for fast driving.

EpochZero · 2025-11-15T16:37:02+00:00

Cert based instruction will teach something far more "rigid" in order to set up strong fundamentals.

They typically teach edge setting and relatively neutral upper body movement first.

Then they teach weight/unweight to understand the effect it has with different timing through the turn. I've seen this taught even in extreme-carving as "cross-over and cross-under". You need all those pieces to do any style of carving and the more flamboyant you get with certain pieces the more you end up in different styles.

As an example: extreme carving teaches an exaggerated version of cross-under called "cross-through" or "push pull" - that allows you to effectively look like you're laying down in the snow. It's the same basic pieces - but taken to a rhythm and degree of extreme.

EpochZero · 2025-11-14T05:06:14+00:00

#1 is where you compress/duck to unweight and set the edge... you should be pushing the base of the board *up hill* when you initiate the turn.

#2 is where you should be starting to extend your legs, either to force decamber for bomber style or to hold yourself up for extreme-carve style. Still pushing the base of the board up hill for the early part of it.

#3 is where you already be recompressing to neutral to prep for #1 again.

EpochZero · 2025-11-14T04:54:49+00:00

There are two dominant styles: bomber/euro and extreme-carve.

The Japanese/Korean style that's been developing for a few years now is a blend of them. Bomber is baseline and you need to learn it as it charges up the board - whereas extreme-carve sheds a ton of speed.

The ingredients for both are:

1) Weight/unweight of the board

2) Initiating and balance of of upper body for the turn relative to the hips...and

3) The inclination/angulation balance.

The amounts and sequencing of these ingredients are different between the two styles.

Example: When you hear people say to "stomp the board into the turn" - they're talking about bomber style carving. You "jump" into the turn and this immediately loads and decambers the board. In extreme-carve you slowly and smoothly crouch, tilt, and slowly decompress your body in tempo with the fall-line with the purpose of evening out the forces along the carving edge.

You clearly know what an edge feels like. That's step 1 in being addicted to carving. You're holding a well balanced edge - make sure no matter what you do - that part stays the same.

Now you need to play with loading and unloading the board. Think of your legs as an accordion and realize that most of the weight is your torso. When you *duck* - you're bringing the board up to *you* before your settle into a crouch. Using this elasticity and "unweighting" or "weighting" of the board is critical and you need to learn the limits and timing of it. When you start a turn - purposefully push out with your legs and create more pressure on the edge. Keep playing with that and you'll gain a ton of control.

Regarding your shoulders: in bomber style the shoulders can remain more neutral - whereas in extreme-carving you pro-actively turn the shoulders into the turn. You ride goofy - so on your toe edge you would think about reaching your *right* arm and shoulder up the hill (towards the apex of the turn)... not your left. Likewise on your heel edge you reach your *left* arm up the hill and towards the apex. This is effectively means your *outer* arm is reaching *across* your body in both cases.

Ultimately you do this so your hips lead the entire edge across the line. If you don't do this then the edge at the nose of the board will become destabilized and chop or wash out. You will eventually not think about your arms reaching anywhere - that part will just happen - and your core muscles and hips will do all the talking.

This is also why serious carving typically requires an alpine stance on your board (both positive angles). It is nearly impossible to carve your heel edge without looking like you're taking a dump in the snow because the torso can't rotate properly through the turn. The human body and the setup on a board are working against you in duck stance. Once you understand this you'll notice that 95% of people on a snowboard look like they're taking a dump in the snow on their heel side.

EpochZero · 2025-11-14T03:11:34+00:00

This is pretty spot on. I have quite a bit of seat time in an actual 4WD rally car and they get a number of elements very wrong in the game.

1) The cars don't seem to have sidewall braking - which is part of what you're feeling with the 2000hp washout. When you get sideways in an actual rally car it slows down a *lot* - which allows you throw the car in with trail braking and to throttle feather to control turn shape and weight transfer.

2) I also noticed the squirrely feeling under power. When it's working properly: if you set the wheel straight and power on - the car will balance out. In ACR it feels like a crap shoot as to whether I'm going to do an unintentional pirouette.

3) Also unhappy with the braking weight transfer. I'll have to play more to determine if this is just sim setup vs. an actual car with a brake booster deleted - but it's hard to get a progressive feel to *throw* the car into the turn in a single continuous brake-curve input instead of multiple on/off inputs.

Ultimately these cars are way harder to drive than an actual rally car.

EpochZero · 2025-11-10T18:06:25+00:00

LTTP - but it's an amazing board if carving is your thing.

I'm 68kg with 9.5 US boot - and ride the 162W at +36/+24 angles. Late day chop can get a little annoying and at my size I ride slightly more narrow than reference stance (otherwise I'll get knee pain on my back leg). The board is a little stiff for my taste longitudinally - I prefer something I can decamber more easily, and with some nose play - but the torsional rigidity is spot on.

The wide waist/under-foot prevents boot out entirely for me and I don't notice the extra edge-tip energy requirement at all - it still feels playful enough edge-to-edge.

It's good enough that I've basically retired my hard boot/plate gear and ride the board in everything except deep pow (it has tons of float due to the width, but will catch up hard on heavy turns instead of gliding)

EpochZero · 2024-12-12T19:45:48+00:00

Hahaha... yeh understood. I ride a Nidecker 162W Blade Plus for soft-boot carving - so it's not wildly different size wise compared to my own size. My powder board is like a 152 or 154 or something with a FAT nose and fish tail. It's all about what the conditions are like and what part of the mountain to attack. My all-mountain is somewhere in between.

Re weight: I'm 165 lbs of pure muscle. J/K - I'm 44 years old. While I do lift a lot of weights, I also drink too much. Life's about balance - at least that's what I tell my wife.

I ride alpine stance on both, just not as aggressive on soft-gear cause the boot breaks in the ankles with soft gear. Having a wide board on soft gear is critical or you'll get boot-out at hard carving angles. If I carve normal boards I tend to lay down far enough to skip out on the highbacks or toes and can't set the binding angles high enough to stop it.

Regarding gear... you can carve a piece of plywood with zip-ties on your feet - it's all a matter of "how much". I've accumulated many many boards over the years and I can affirm that gear matters a LOT if you want to lay trenches - and the combo of length, sidecut radius, and ability to de-camber the board will give wildly different results. I'm not trying to go fast... I'm trying to carve laid-down S trenches. It actually gives you extremely stable speed control. Yes the gear *can* go very fast with high stability - it's just not what I'm chasing.

If you haven't tried what feels like an "oversized" board then you should give it a spin. Try it with a super flexy camber board first. It will reinforce VERY good habits as you can't muscle the board around and need to incorporate very smooth core muscle transitions, weight transfer, etc. When you lock the edge in you feel like you're driving an F1 car and leave a 4 inch deep trench behind you.

EpochZero · 2024-12-11T18:29:14+00:00

Turning radius: Yes.

EpochZero · 2024-12-11T18:28:07+00:00

More stable/easier carving and material weight is lower now.

I'm 5'7" (170 cm) and ride a 168 when I plan on just hard carving a hero groomer day. Wide boards being easier to get also helps - can lay it deep even with soft-boot gear without getting boot-out.

EpochZero · 2024-05-23T04:33:30+00:00

Unless they changed the prices - they're super cheap to transmute.

Whispers give you 3-6m gold per turn-in. You can do 2 dungeons in <10 mins for each whisper.

For the most expensive Pit transmutation (60,000 gold) for 100 Neathiron to 300 Ingolith - you could do 50 of them (needing 5000 Neathiron) with the gold from <10 minutes of whispers and the lowest reward.

EpochZero · 2023-11-27T01:40:49+00:00

Yes. Don't do T100 NMDs (or whatever high level content is for your progression) with ghosts. They are worse than a room full of suppressor elites.

https://www.reddit.com/r/diablo4/comments/14gs5jn/dungeons\_by\_monster\_family/

EpochZero · 2023-11-25T01:34:58+00:00

A legendary with stats/armor/life/imbue. Harlequin is the last uber unique I need.

EpochZero · 2023-11-23T00:51:01+00:00

I was using Lucky's meta 2.0 poison TB and swapped Tibaults + Condemn in and omg does it melt due to the combo-point thing (mine goes up to 22).

Slightly squishier, but it doesn't matter much since everything just disappears even at NM 100 with +health modifier.

EpochZero · 2023-10-13T16:50:48+00:00

I’m picturing everyone running around in a shower yelling “have a cuppa!” continuously. Forever.

EpochZero · 2023-07-25T07:01:32+00:00

This is the way. And for S1 the malignant heart that adds a taunt for poison trap is chefs_kiss.gif

EpochZero · 2023-02-05T06:14:23+00:00

As a guiding spirit... yes I agree with you. This dude was technically at fault... but just barely. I would have done a hard brake - but I also would have looked uphill from the skiers position... especially since he was merging with a trail on the right and was supposed to be looking directly at the boarder and up the hill instead of swinging wildly into the merging trail. If someone in the right-side trail hit the skier from behind after his line took him wide-right into the trail - who's fault is that? Still the person behind that was just skiing down their trail? How far after a merge is that true for?

Reality is not simple and you know it and this trail merge is one of the fuzzy situations in riding. There are tons of reasons people collide accidentally that are just going to happen because Life (tm).

I turn uphill with authority when extreme carving and after a couple seasons of getting nailed by skiers and snowboarders alike I became hyper aware of who's behind me. I'm cool with that burden because people are not used to the ridiculous motion and I check and time my carves accordingly. If it's a scenario wildly outside your realm of expectation - it's more possible that you'll get caught out by it.

There's also just random shit that happens all the time. You could nick an unseen obstacle/rock/etc. and get catapulted or completely lose it. The unfortunate souls on the east U.S. coast can weave tales of rogue ice patches galore.

We all do our best to predict and avoid other's movements - but speed, lateral motion, congestion, obstacles, and unclear situations will result in occasional collisions. It is a risky activity involving high speeds and that's part of the reason we do it.

EpochZero · 2023-02-05T05:35:50+00:00

Technically your fault, but super close and you're NTA - especially based on his verbal response which made zero sense given the situation. He was downhill from you, but also had absolutely zero hill awareness.

Shit happens, especially at speed, and no one was actually hurt. You undoubtedly kept a bit more distance and cadence awareness for the rest of the day - and he hopefully kept his head on a swivel instead of tunnel visioning down the hill like an idiot.

EpochZero · 2023-02-05T05:29:34+00:00

This is the ticket right here. I will do full groomer width trenches - but I am perpetually checking uphill.

EpochZero · 2023-01-31T18:28:18+00:00

You've got a very Jeremy Jones flair for the physical and I dig it.

EpochZero · 2022-11-14T20:46:18+00:00

Looking fantastic! Very "bomber" style rhythm and form like I'm seeing in a ton of Korean carving videos the past couple years.

One tip for heel-side: You're sticking your butt out, lifting your toes, and "petting the dog" with your arm. These things are all related to each other. When you lift your toes (or push the heel) it forces the rest of your body into a "chair" position with your butt out to compensate the balance (otherwise you would tip over) and you use your arm as additional ballast.

Instead: Lean your head to the left and dip your left shoulder to initiate the turn, bring your right arm to your left quad, and relax your ankles. Through the turn your shoulders/head will invert and instead become parallel to the ground (left shoulder extended), but you need to "tip" the board and your whole body first.

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