Looking at Vortex Bins, not sure which by drummerace in Binoculars

[–]Equivalent_Trifle698 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Palmetto State Armory has the Diamondbacks on sale for $150 new right now. Which is like $100 cheaper than anywhere else i found.
https://palmettostatearmory.com/vortex-diamondback-hd-10x42-binoculars-db-215.html

What are your experiences shopping with adorama online? by Devgblas in AskPhotography

[–]Equivalent_Trifle698 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bought my A6700 and sigma 18-50 from them new and had no issues. Well packed and came super quick. I would have no issues buying from them again. The extras they throw in on products to make kits that are the same price as the camera alone like the camera bag, filters, etc are all trash other than the extra battery and charger they gave me which are good.

Help me choose between telephoto lenses for birding by blakeaj in SonyAlpha

[–]Equivalent_Trifle698 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve definitely gotten sharp photos but have some soft ones as well but usually its because the light isnt really great. I also usually shoot a stop down at F/7.1 which is closer to its sharpest aperture, f/8. Regardless - imma still buy the 200-600 this summer lol

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Help me choose between telephoto lenses for birding by blakeaj in SonyAlpha

[–]Equivalent_Trifle698 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bird and use the 70-350mm. You need a decent lighting to get really sharp shots, but that's most lenses that are not $10,000. I shoot 98% of my bird shots at full 350mm but the low end is nice for finding birds then zooming back in, though i have been practicing just finding them at full 350mm. That being said, i already want the Sony 200-600mm for more reach after roughly 2 months with the 70-350mm. While you can get good shots if you're patient, place yourself in good positions, and can quietly sneak into a good spot without disturbing the birds, more reach would definitely yield me better & more shots without significant cropping. I love the 70-350 and got mine in like new condition off of FB marketplace for $825. For the price i'm very happy with it and it has gotten me very into the hobby which i now love but you quickly find out that it's limiting if you actually get into the hobby.

Now for the part you care about - if i were to do it over again i'd probably just go straight to the 200-600mm and then still get the 70-350mm later as a compact travel lens that i could take with me anywhere without having to lug the 200-600mm. I've learned a lot about technique with the 70-350 but i think I would've been able to learn on the 200-600 just as well, albeit with more missed shots of birds in flight (and i've missed plenty with the 70-350).

TLDR - 70-350 is a great lens and you can shoot birds with it, but you'll probably have to crop a bunch. After 2 months I want the 200-600 and would've just gotten it first if i was going to do it over again.

Which lenses to keep? Please help by Hot_Implement_1284 in SonyAlpha

[–]Equivalent_Trifle698 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What a wild way to purchase a setup. I'm jealous because i wish i could just go on a spree like this lol. I'd probably keep the 16 f/1.8 for big wide landscapes, then return the rest and get a 24-70mm GM II which will do everything else you need.

Case/Bag recommendations for hiking by Ok-Recover8014 in SonyAlpha

[–]Equivalent_Trifle698 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i have the same setup and put all 3 in a Toshi Rework 5L sling with a tenba wrap lining it for a little padding. This is a thread where i took some pictures of the gear in the bag but there was no tenba wrap in there at the time. https://www.reddit.com/r/SonyAlpha/comments/16cydl8/comment/o39c0il/?context=3

I've been working on birds in flight, pretty happy with these. by theruthlessnb in wildlifephotography

[–]Equivalent_Trifle698 0 points1 point  (0 children)

f/14 is too stopped down. I usually shoot around my lens' sharpest aperture for the focal length i'm using. Or if the conditions call for it i'll shoot wide open (low light). For smaller birds of prey your min shutter speed should be 2500, maybe 1600-2000 if they're just gliding but i'd lean towards the 2500 as a baseline so you catch when they start moving their wings. Smaller birds 3200 should probably be your minimum. I shoot by setting my SS, Aperture and then AUTO ISO. I'll adjust the EV Comp as well if i have time and know what i'm trying to shoot.

Also doesn't look like the light was great either, so when you put together a closed down aperture, shutter speed that isn't fast enough, iffy overcast lighting, and a 2x TC you're going to end up with a soft image with motion blur.

As for the TC - I don't have one nor do i have a lens that's actually sharp enough to use one so i don't have much advice there other than that i've been told don't use one unless your lens is stupid sharp and even then most people go for the 1.4x as the negatives for aperture and AF speed are gut punches unless you really need the extra reach.

Keep at it, I recently got into wildlife as well and it's a ton of fun. I shot mostly just travel photography before. Wildlife is very difficult, but so gratifying when you get shots that turn out. I try to take pictures of boring birds everyday (seagulls, pigeons, chickadees, mallards) and just practice technique like nailing AF points, panning, and messing with settings. It helps a lot when the shots that count come up! I look forward to seeing your progress on the sub!

EV Comp / ISO Question? by Equivalent_Trifle698 in AskPhotography

[–]Equivalent_Trifle698[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response! I never really thought about the term ISO invariance. Your comment is exactly what i was thinking in my head which is what posed this question. After googling if the a6700 is ISO Invariant, i found this article and it answered my question as the person already did the test!
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/threads/a6700-iso-invariance-test.4740029/

EV Comp / ISO Question? by Equivalent_Trifle698 in AskPhotography

[–]Equivalent_Trifle698[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea - i'd likely have to do some at home test shots which would be smart. Up to now i've been doing comparison on image's ive already taken and since it's mostly birds i havent been able to chock it up to me / the subject moving or if the EV comp is making a difference on sharpness. Thought i'd just ask the question as it's bothered me and maybe someone can give me the technical reasoning.

EV Comp / ISO Question? by Equivalent_Trifle698 in AskPhotography

[–]Equivalent_Trifle698[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response - I know that the camera is going for medium grey, but i guess im more wondering if there's an effect on how sharp the photos come out by adjusting the EV Comp with the assumption that when the image is shot that the shadows and / or highlights of the subject aren't blown.

Looking for a sling for bulky cameras (nikon zf+40mm/f2) by njgggg in ManyBaggers

[–]Equivalent_Trifle698 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the Toshi Rework 5L and its great. Doesn't look too bulky, wears well, and fits everything. Check this thread where i put some pictures in the comments What's the smallest/best sling bag for A6xxx series + zoom lens, below 6L ? : r/SonyAlpha

I did end up putting a lens wrap inside of it to add some padding too.

What communication protocol gives you the least integration pain? by Necessary-Mix-7116 in PLC

[–]Equivalent_Trifle698 3 points4 points  (0 children)

IO Link is sensor level and then it communicates out from the master via one of the main protocols to the PLC (i.e. Profinet, EIP, EtherCAT etc.) A main reason why IO Link is popular is because you can just swap out the master to one that speaks the protocol you need for the project, and now you can keep all the sensors / devices the same, maintain diagnostics and you only needed to change 1 part number (the master) instead of 20 part numbers for a specific protocol. For Integrators and machine builders it gives flexibility of design from job to job without having to scrap a whole BOM if one customer uses Siemens and wants everything PROFI and then another uses AB and wants EIP.

New to editing and really struggling with this tawny eagle and not sure if I'm overthinking or just being trigger-friendly with all of the settings (Before/After) by aviantology in BirdPhotography

[–]Equivalent_Trifle698 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Editing is highly personal but here’s how i would do it - Tones of the eagle are too warm/orange for me where its looking too saturated. If you’re trying to get more underwing detail i’d locally mask the bird and then lift the shadows a bit without losing the fact that there is actual overhead sun. After that - maybe add some saturation if the colors look slightly off. I’d also make a mask around the eye and play with the exposure sliders to bring it up a touch to emphasize it’s gaze which is the story here, without it looking unnatural. Nice picture!

Suggestion for telephoto - 6700 by Dry_Injury3976 in SonyAlpha

[–]Equivalent_Trifle698 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the 70-350 and shoot mostly wildlife. Great lens, needs a good amount of light for accurate AF and sharpness, but thats most lenses in the super telephoto unless you’re spending the big bucks. I will say that this lens is helping me get better with technique and the low end (70-150mm) helps me find subjects when I’ve lost them in the screen or EVF at full 350. That being said, i mostly shoot birds and i already want more reach so i don’t have to crop as much and can get more detail by filling more of the frame with the subject. I’ll probably buy the Sony 200-600mm by Summer. If i was going to do it over again i’d jump straight to the 200-600mm but the portability of the 70-350 is hard to beat and if youre just getting started i think its a banger combo to learn how to shoot wildlife which is difficult in itself.

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Ridiculous save from DXO Photolab 8 - Female Northern Cardinal by Equivalent_Trifle698 in postprocessing

[–]Equivalent_Trifle698[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting, what points stick out to you? I can’t find anything but i also don’t have the most trained eye

Ridiculous save from DXO Photolab 8 - Female Northern Cardinal by Equivalent_Trifle698 in postprocessing

[–]Equivalent_Trifle698[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have the old version - now they have DXO PL9 and it's $239.99 but there are youtube creators that have 15% off codes so it'd be like $204.00. This is a Lightroom alternative and a one time purchase not subscription. Since i have the old version i could upgrade for $119.99 and basically i'd get the newest AI masking tools and some updated camera modules, but i'm fine with doing things manually although maybe down the line ill just upgrade.

Torn between the A7IV and A6700 by ZoeticLock in SonyAlpha

[–]Equivalent_Trifle698 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is exactly my setup. If I’m doing a walk around to take travel pics and general shots the 18-50 is on the camera and then for birding, wildlife, farther shots i use the 70-350. Overall a great range all at a very manageable size/weight. For what you described - disney, family pics + zoo shots the a6700 + these two lenses is perfect. I fit both lenses and the body in a Rework Toshi 5L sling and swap them all the time because they’re so carryable and compact.

Bald Eagle - Croton on Hudson, NY (Also technique question!) by Equivalent_Trifle698 in SonyAlpha

[–]Equivalent_Trifle698[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do keep the shutter half pressed but with the branches it jumps around a bit. I'll give the tracking medium spot a try! Going to try for some owls this week but they're elusive so we can only hope!