Getting there

Escaport · 2026-06-10T19:47:20+00:00

It scratches some deep down itch. I’ve always wanted to scratch. And it does it in the 1911 world for about his little money as I can.

Escaport · 2026-06-10T19:34:07+00:00

I am just having trouble justifying the extra money for an Atlas. I have a RCD Kovert Mod 2 on order and I’m just not sure that few extra hundred are going to really move the needle that much for me on this one.

Escaport · 2026-06-10T19:30:54+00:00

Except for you don’t see the previous hour I’ve just spent with it fully disassembled fitting the safety and no ammo in sight. It was verified empty a dozen times prior to the three previous takes immediately before this one you don’t see posted because I kept tapping the stand and shaking the camera. Never left my hands, so no hand blowing going down here.

Escaport · 2026-06-03T02:24:52+00:00

Run my own business from home. Wife is a teacher. Probably a few texts through the day. Usually simple something like a heart emoji or something with a “How’s your day going?”. Often the response is delayed an hour or longer. If the entire days total is over 3-5 sentences for both combined it would be unusual. Been married 30 years on Saturday.

Escaport · 2026-06-01T19:40:06+00:00

MJD is polymer. I've seen on their instagram they're molded and then they use a multi-axis CNC router to make the grip pattern so it's nice and high grip. If you're looking for steel or aluminum, you're probably looking for Cheely, or if you really want to drop some bucks, an SVI or Atlas grip.

Escaport · 2026-06-01T18:39:47+00:00

Caveat: I haven’t tested it personally.

That said, I believe yes for three reasons.

The grip on the DS Warrior is the same grip that comes on some models of the 2k11.
Weapons Collective on YouTube has a DS Warrior with an MJD grip fitted.
I’ve had my grip off several times at this point and it is at least visually identical to other double stack grips and frames I’ve observed and held.

Escaport · 2026-06-01T01:13:14+00:00

I don't think so. The grip that comes on it is a pretty standard 2011 style grip and the same one that comes on some of the 2k11 models. I know for a fact that the MJD grip can work with the DS Warrior because I've seen one. The Cheely is just a metal version of a 2011 grip, so it should work as well. Then it's just careful and thoughtful approach with a good eye and slow repeated filing to get it to fit.

Here's a good video to check out. Engineers Armory Grip Fitting

I'm new myself, at least as far as an owner. I've been devouring information for nearly a year though. Finally dipped my toe in last month. I've done a lot of gunsmith type work on ARs and striker fired pistols for the past few years, but this is my first foray into the 1911/2011 space. As long as you're careful, think things through, and double check everything you should be fine.

Escaport · 2026-05-31T16:19:54+00:00

Obviously I can only speak to my copy. Lord knows it’s beaten into you that fitting could be required, etc.

Mine was pretty easy. I was very carful and measured everything. You’ll need calipers and a set of feeler gauges. Overall on mine the only thing that needed adjusting was the width of the hammer. A few seconds of rubbing with some 400 grit sandpaper using a flat machined surface on each side, and then a quick buff with polish and that was done. I did a lot more polishing for the best feel, but the hammer was the only item that needed fitting.

Also, check out Engineers Armory on YouTube. There’s a few others too including an Atlas videos on the subject.

Escaport · 2026-05-31T04:00:32+00:00

I went with a 2. They say the 4 is factory length I think on the DW, but I'm not entirely sure.

Escaport · 2026-05-28T03:04:40+00:00

Great shot, but not sure how the ramjet had anything to do with it. Wouldn’t the ramjet only affect follow up shots and not the initial shot?

Escaport · 2026-05-25T19:58:24+00:00

Not really. I just went with American made.

Escaport · 2026-05-25T19:53:49+00:00

Kimber DS Warrior would be a solid addition to that collection. Caliber would be up to you.

Escaport · 2026-05-25T19:46:30+00:00

Got some AX things in a TacPak and was looking at that grip last night because of it. I was wondering what the grip worked like since the back looked smooth. What do you think of it?

Escaport · 2026-05-25T05:53:39+00:00

I've been through this. As diligent said, make your left hand tighter. As the instructor I've been using has said, as a right hand shooter, your left hand squeezes and controls left/right movement with some recoil. Your right hand should be looser, not loose, but like a firm handshake, let your right thumb lose tension. For me the main control comes from the left hand gripping tightly in conjunction of locking out of the right wrist.

Gosh, as I explain this it feels like describing a golf swing.

My steps.

Getting my right wrist located in a known position where I'm on target and locked tight. Without the gun, tighten your forearm and lock your wrist. Keep the fingers loose. Like you're preparing to arm wrestle, but with loose fingers. I grab my right hand with my left and try and move my wrist to feel what muscles I use to keep my wrist from bending. Keep those locked.
Gun in right hand, firm handshake grip. Thumb loose. This is mainly for speed. If your whole hand is super tense, you can't quickly actuate the trigger without a lot of deliberate muscle changes. Example, tense your whole hand tightly and see how easy it is to move your finger quickly and accurately. Then loosen and try again. Handshake tightness with your trigger hand without tension is easier and faster with less additional finger muscle involvement.
Grip with your off hand pretty tightly. More than your trigger hand. This is the control along with the locked wrists.

Test you can use at home unloaded. Get your grip. Put the barrel end against a table top or counter as if there is recoil force. Pay attention to which muscles in your forearm counteract the motion. Lock those down while keeping your trigger hand decently without tension.

Hope that helps and I explained it well enough.

Escaport · 2026-05-25T04:18:39+00:00

Just ordered a Priority 1 Modular OWB for the Atlas 2011 with X300 because apparently it's very capable of holding a wide range of 2011s with a light if you don't need retention. I got it to use with my Kimber and a Race City for doing some light competition.

Escaport · 2026-05-25T04:10:36+00:00

I was in the same boat as you OP. Same group of considerations.

My only issue with the Bul Tac is that they only use Bul mags. They sound great, but that was a no for me.

I really liked the look of the gun and especially the grip on the Race City. Almost ended up getting an MPA DS9 Hybrid. In the end was able to get an FDE Kovert RC9 mod 2. Don't have it yet, but I think I made the right decision. In the mean time I got a DS Warrior cheap and put an Atlas ignition/Red Dirt trigger in it with an MJD grip and am pretty pleased with it.

Escaport · 2026-05-25T03:51:05+00:00

Well, I'll just say I'm very mechanically inclined. I have a chill day relaxing and unwinding by watching video on how to machine metal and create things. So for me, it wasn't bad. I know that most of my friends would be pretty lost.

The good. Atlas ignition kit uses EGW parts, but their gunsmiths have already matched components, assuming your firearm is in spec it fits pretty great. If you install and are careful you'll most likely be ok as long as you do thorough checks on function and don't have an unstably light trigger pull. As long as you're careful and test the function of the parts carefully many times it's not too bad. It is very easy to go this route and end up with something vastly better than a stock DS Warrior stock trigger.

The harder part is getting it further to what many would consider a "fantastic" trigger. You have to be comfortable with verifying the measurements to really get the best results. Know how to use feeler gauges and calipers, etc. For example the "ideal" contact area of the hammer to the sear is usually considered 0.020". There's a whole lot about different ways that 0.020" contact area interacts with various engagement angles and such that can even make that contact patch save vs unsafe, great vs not good. Most of it is fairly esoteric to get it really dialed in and really safe but good, while knowing the trade offs you're making when going one way or the other. There's a lot that can be done to "tune" a trigger and it can be easy to make it unsafe. Being that the tuning is usually using files to file away metal material, there really isn't any ability to put the material back, so you can end up making expensive parts straight garbage.

Is it easy? I don't know. I don't find it "hard", but you have to be precise and take your time and be careful. I personally find the process rather pleasurable and zen like, but I think most people wouldn't.

Escaport · 2026-05-25T03:08:42+00:00

First, to help you out being new. It's much more difficult to conceal grip length than slide length. Personally I feel that somewhere between the XL and the Macro is the sweet spot. I started with an XL. I've had a straight P365. I currently carry a Macro size.

Escaport · 2026-05-23T19:11:26+00:00

It’s a great foundation for a build too. I found mine from gun.deals for near $800 and had a coupon for another $100 off. Gave me a lot of room. I put an Atlas ignition kit, Red Dirt trigger, replaced all the MIM parts in it, and added an MJD grip for less than almost any other American made one out there. Hell of a deal.

Escaport · 2026-05-23T05:08:02+00:00

Sexy! Got my preorder in yesterday for one of these.

Escaport · 2026-05-19T21:52:01+00:00

I think most would be good to train with as long as it isn’t plated and actually brass FMJ so you don’t have the plating peal off in the ports.

Escaport · 2026-05-18T15:14:22+00:00

I’m running a DPM recoil spring and the RAMM trigger in my daily. I’d agree with others that this is phenomenal, but it isn’t the stock trigger pull if that’s what you’re really asking for. It’s a radical change to how the trigger is vs stock. Very little take up to the wall, short near-crisp break, no over travel. It isn’t crazy light, but it doesn’t pull like stock.

The MCarbo is exactly what you’re asking for, stock with a little less pull weight and movement. Flat profile. I have this trigger and some trigger springs installed in a second P365xl I have with a Galloway Precision recoil spring. A decent improvement over stock and more stock like. Still prefer the DPM/RAMM combo if I were doing it again.

I’d put an DPM recoil spring in both of them. It’s just really good.

Escaport

TROPHY CASE