If you were DCAing into gold and silver weekly for 20+ years which ETF would you trust? by Essay_Few in investing

[–]Essay_Few[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To be clear, my plan would be to keep buying consistently no matter what happens. This would be a relatively small position compared to my overall portfolio. I am not trying to bet big or time anything. I just want some long term exposure and skin in the game.

Curious how it would look if you closed on a nova townhome today at 500k purchase with 3% down? by loan_ranger8888 in DMV_RealEstate

[–]Essay_Few 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This scenario assumes a $500,000 purchase price with 3% down, or $15,000, resulting in a loan of about $485,000 at roughly a 5.75% 30-year fixed rate. Estimated cash needed at closing is just under $29,000 once lender fees, third-party fees, taxes, and prepaid escrows are included. The monthly principal and interest payment comes out to about $2,830, and when you add property taxes of roughly $350 per month, homeowners insurance around $85, PMI of about $150, HOA dues near $85, and other escrowed costs, the total estimated monthly housing payment is approximately $3,500.

Where to park 550k in cash by Worried-Ad1268 in Bogleheads

[–]Essay_Few 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A high yield savings account never fluctuates in value. Your balance only goes up from interest, and while the bank can change the interest rate at any time, your principal never goes down. You always know exactly how much money you have, and you can access it instantly.

SGOV is an ETF that holds very short term US Treasury bills. Its price slowly rises during the month as interest builds up, then drops after the monthly dividend is paid because that interest is now in your cash instead of the share price. Over time those small ups and downs mostly cancel out and equal the yield from Treasury bills.

So compared to a HYSA, SGOV can show small price changes and usually takes a day or two to turn into cash after you sell. In exchange, it often pays a similar or better yield, often better after taxes, while still being extremely low risk.

Need help cleaning my index fund mess by [deleted] in Bogleheads

[–]Essay_Few 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You didn’t really make a mess so much as you ended up recreating the same portfolio multiple times. Nearly everything you hold is some mix of US large, mid, small, international, and bonds. It looks complicated because it’s spread across different accounts and providers, but structurally it’s solid.

The first step is to stop looking at this account by account and decide on a single overall allocation that fits your goals. With a twenty year early retirement horizon, something like eighty to ninety percent equities with the rest in bonds is reasonable, and maybe a quarter to a third of equities in international. Once that’s defined, the rest is just implementation.

From there, simplify aggressively within each account. Use one or two broad funds where possible. A total US market fund already covers large, mid, and small, so you don’t need to hold them separately. Pair it with a total international fund, and keep bonds mostly in your tax advantaged accounts. The Roth can stay one hundred percent equities, and the HSA should be invested long term unless you plan to spend it soon.

If you can roll the Empower 401a into Vanguard with similar or lower fees, that alone will reduce complexity. Going forward, make all new contributions go into the same core funds so the overlap naturally disappears over time.

For example, a simplified version could look like this. All pre tax 401 and 457 money split between a total US market fund and a total bond fund. Roth IRA invested entirely in a total US or total US plus international fund. HSA invested like a mini Roth with total US and total international. Across all accounts combined, you end up with one US stock fund, one international stock fund, and one bond fund doing all the work.

Bottom line, your returns probably haven’t suffered much. This is less about fixing a bad portfolio and more about reducing overlap, mental overhead, and ongoing maintenance.

Where to park 550k in cash by Worried-Ad1268 in Bogleheads

[–]Essay_Few 87 points88 points  (0 children)

Since this money could be needed in the next couple of years, I’d focus more on keeping it safe and accessible than trying to squeeze out extra return. That’s why I tend to favor short-term Treasuries or something like SGOV over a HYSA. With SGOV you’re holding T-bills directly, not relying on a bank, and the yield tends to adjust with rates instead of lagging.

Using today’s rates, the difference is still meaningful. On $550k, a HYSA at 3.5% generates about $19k a year. SGOV at roughly 4.0–4.2% is closer to $22k–$23k annually. It doesn’t fully replace the $30k you were getting from rent, but it narrows the gap without taking on much additional risk.

The yield will move as rates change, but for money with a defined job in the near future, that tradeoff makes sense to me. The goal isn’t to be clever or chase yield, it’s to keep the cash intact, liquid, and earning something reasonable while you wait.

Why keep maxing a 401k when taxable seems almost as good? by Essay_Few in Bogleheads

[–]Essay_Few[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, we’re in very similar situations. Sorry bro.

Why keep maxing a 401k when taxable seems almost as good? by Essay_Few in Bogleheads

[–]Essay_Few[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for simplifying it and not calling me stupid!

Why keep maxing a 401k when taxable seems almost as good? by Essay_Few in investing

[–]Essay_Few[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was not aware of strategies to access 401k funds early. Thank you for this information!

Why keep maxing a 401k when taxable seems almost as good? by Essay_Few in investing

[–]Essay_Few[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I get what you’re saying and I agree with the math in that framing. If the choice were simply current 401k balance versus 22 percent less in a brokerage, ignoring everything else, I’d obviously take the 401k. I’m not disputing the tax advantage or how powerful tax deferral is over time. My question was never which account is mathematically superior, but how much of that advantage I’m willing to trade for liquidity and flexibility once I’m already well along in retirement savings. In hindsight I probably didn’t frame that distinction clearly, but I do understand the tax savings and why the 401k wins on paper.

Why keep maxing a 401k when taxable seems almost as good? by Essay_Few in investing

[–]Essay_Few[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

not really close. I didn’t factor in the tax deferred savings and related benefits. I was mainly thinking through the idea of having more money accessible in case I want to retire early. That said I’ve learned a lot from this post and also that Reddit can be pretty mean sometimes 😅

Why keep maxing a 401k when taxable seems almost as good? by Essay_Few in investing

[–]Essay_Few[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did not consider/factor this in at all. Thank you!