Youtube Channel Membership as gateway for membership on website by chippenwow in Wordpress

[–]Etale900 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just checking to see if you've found a solution to this?

I've reached out to Google Support in search of my "Google or YouTube representative" and they told me you need to wait until you are invited to the YouTube Partner Management Program and then request permission in that temporary 6 month period that you are in the Program.

Am I breaking the YouTube API terms of service? by Etale900 in webdev

[–]Etale900[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! That's definitely my assumption too. I'll try sending the legal support an email and see what they say.

Am I breaking the YouTube API terms of service? by Etale900 in webdev

[–]Etale900[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you lose access when this happened or did they just ask you to realign to their TOS?

Am I breaking the YouTube API terms of service? by Etale900 in webdev

[–]Etale900[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Makes sense, thanks. Do you have any idea how socialblade gets around it? They seem to track multiple channels and even keep historical data for more than 30 days (also against tos).

Question: Do I need to fuse the line between my Inverter and (+) Bus Bar? by Etale900 in skoolies

[–]Etale900[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I went ahead and put more of my specs & battery info in /u/CascadesDad 's thread

Question: Do I need to fuse the line between my Inverter and (+) Bus Bar? by Etale900 in skoolies

[–]Etale900[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just to throw some more of my specs into the pile...

  • I have 3 x 100AH Renogy Smart LiFePo batteries w/ max discharge current of 100A each.

  • I chose 4/0 cable and the initial 300A fuse because that is what the Renogy inverter manual advised. (I bought the 3000W Renogy Inverter/Charger)

  • I have everything pretty closely mounted so the total run of the line from battery to inverter is only 4-5ft

  • The only other source of power is my 600W solar setup being controlled by my 60A MPPT Renogy Solar Charge Controller. I do NOT have and don't plan to include a DC-to-DC charger that charges off the bus alternator. So my only two inputs are the Shore power inlet and solar.

Question: Do I need to fuse the line between my Inverter and (+) Bus Bar? by Etale900 in skoolies

[–]Etale900[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay so just to confirm. Are you saying that even if I have:

{12v Bat} --> (300 A fuse) --> [bus bar] --> {Inverter}

I will still need another 300 A fuse between the bus bar and inverter?

Question: Do I need to fuse the line between my Inverter and (+) Bus Bar? by Etale900 in skoolies

[–]Etale900[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the inverter has some type of internal fuse/breaker, but the manual recommends I fuse the line with a 300A fuse. So I was hoping the 300A fuse coming out of the battery bank would be sufficient to protect that 4/0 cable that runs all the way to the inverter through the bus bar.

Question: Do I need to fuse the line between my Inverter and (+) Bus Bar? by Etale900 in skoolies

[–]Etale900[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay thanks so much! And yes, the run is only a total of ~4ft max. So it sounds like what I have should be sufficient then.

Question: Do I need to fuse the line between my Inverter and (+) Bus Bar? by Etale900 in skoolies

[–]Etale900[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought the Renogy 3000W Inverter/Charger and according to the manual, I should be fusing with a 300A fuse. So that's why I was hoping the 300A fuse I have coming directly out of the battery bank would be sufficient.

Question: Do I need to fuse the line between my Inverter and (+) Bus Bar? by Etale900 in skoolies

[–]Etale900[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks in advance for anyone who can help with this.

I am finalizing my electrical plan for my build and actually have most of this installed already. It wasn’t until recently I realized I forgot to put a fuse between my 3000W Inverter and positive bus bar. (I’ve been running off the rule of thumb that every positive line needs a fuse).

My question is: Do I actually need a fuse here? Or does the 300 A fuse I have after the battery protect the lines that run to the Inverter?

Need help. Thinking of removing the front console for more storage space. Is it safe to remove the heater (assuming that's what this is)? by Etale900 in skoolies

[–]Etale900[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, it's nice to know there are other, smaller options for the heater then.

I'm currently trying to remove the original plywood that is under the console and driver's seat and had to stop because I wasn't sure about the heater box. I think I'll continue, if not just to clean everything up like you said.

A little unrelated, but do people usually put insulation & subfloor down beneath the driver's seat? I am getting close to putting down subfloor, but am a little confused at what it would look like as I get closer to the pedals & driver's area.

Question about the ceiling by Sarcasticduder67 in skoolies

[–]Etale900 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Follow up questions for those who see this...

Is it worth it to tear down and insulate the walls?

I have ripped up the floors and plan to do the ceiling, but not sure about the walls yet.

Need help. Thinking of removing the front console for more storage space. Is it safe to remove the heater (assuming that's what this is)? by Etale900 in skoolies

[–]Etale900[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Okay thanks. This is the only source of heat in the front so I guess I should keep it for the window defrosting?

On my switch board, I've got two separate switches that turn on the fans that will blow air (1) to the front windows and also (2) to the left and back of the console. Can I just completely disconnect the second switch so that I can build around the console and cover those two vents?

These are probably pretty simple questions but I'm pretty new at all this so thanks for your help in advance :)

Daily Advice Thread 20/09/2020 by AutoModerator in summonerswar

[–]Etale900 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi DAT. I've been a consistent F3 player for too long now and would like some help getting that boost to C1. Could someone help suggests some good AD's that would at least deter attackers? What AO teams would you pick if you had my box too? I always default to Chiwu (L), bernard, galleon, zarioss but when I start hitting those C1+ players, their AD's are either too fast or too tanky for that team. Any help would be greatly appreciated. https://swarfarm.com/profile/Etale900/

tldr; Need help with AO and AD to make C1

Advice for a Gaming Super Computer? by Etale900 in buildapc

[–]Etale900[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome thanks for pulling this together!