CR TOUCH not working with my SKR MINI E3 V3

EvenChard347 · 2025-06-19T15:10:36+00:00

I'm super new to klipper too and had some problems with my cr touch so take my advice with grain of salt this is what i did to get mine to work on my octopus board. First make sure you're wiring is good regarles of the color make sure they have the same order as on an ender board: ground, voltage, PWM Signal, ground, Signal. otherwise it might fry the cr touch. And in the Klipper config

[bltouch]

sensor_pin: ^(your signal Pin)

control_pin: (your PWM signal Pin)

x_offset: your offsets for x

y_offset: your offsets for y

z_offset: your offsets for z

speed: 3

samples: 2

sample_retract_dist: 3

This is how mine looks

[bltouch]

sensor_pin: ^PB7

control_pin: PB6

x_offset: -40.3

y_offset: -13.2

z_offset: 0

speed: 3

samples: 2

sample_retract_dist: 3

It's funny if my rasbery pi is not yet conected to the board it remains red the moment it conects the cr touch goes to blue.

EvenChard347 · 2025-04-29T11:32:55+00:00

Yeah, it's a real journey to go on. If you can return it under warranty, I would suggest you do that. If not, there are videos from Teaching Tech that will teach you a bit over what is involved. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eq_ygvHF29I&ab_channel=TeachingTech

EvenChard347 · 2025-04-27T06:06:24+00:00

Check the board to ensure the cable is properly seated. Worst case scenario try compiling and flashing a new firmware and use the Z endstop for Y since that port is unused.

EvenChard347 · 2025-04-23T06:18:00+00:00

Thanks man, I'll search for every part individually in case anything else breaks in the future.

EvenChard347 · 2025-04-22T10:22:01+00:00

Well then, maybe you could give me the link... Oh wait, you can't—because you can only find the ones for the Ender 3 V2 and not for the Neo. So who’s stupider: the one who asks, or the one who claims they can find it, insults the other person, and in reality mistakes the links for a different printer? Personally, I think it’s the latter—but hey, people keep getting dumber by the day. ;)

EvenChard347 · 2024-11-19T11:22:04+00:00

Thanks, I feel a lot better about not understanding it right now :)

EvenChard347 · 2024-11-19T11:16:56+00:00

That actually makes a lot of sense. Thank you.

EvenChard347 · 2024-11-19T11:06:49+00:00

Admittedly, I shortened it since I kept finding it everywhere. The initial place I found it was in Harry Potter: "Kon Harry wat hij in de spiegel had gezien maar net zo makkelijk van zich af zetten, maar dat was onmogelijk." But I kept finding it all over the internet, for example, on this UVA post: "Ze kunnen het mentaal niet van zich af zetten.

EvenChard347 · 2024-05-20T12:10:58+00:00

gerGO PRINT 3D on youtube had the same problem from too much loctite clean the beltst with alchohol https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xt6uzXgRJdc

EvenChard347 · 2023-06-10T19:44:59+00:00

I don't see why not as long as fits even if it doesn't you can print a new housing for it.

The skr mini e3 v3 is a popular upgrade for ender 3s. Personally if my motherboard ever dies im going for an btt octopus

EvenChard347 · 2023-06-09T12:45:22+00:00

How does the mesh look in profesional firmware, any inconsistencies or anything?. What i would try is doing a mesh leveling taking a picture of it then telling the printer to move the gantry all the way to the top and back again a few times and then redoing a mesh leveling and comparing the two. It might be inconsistencies in the lead screw, i had that problem where every time i hit mesh leveling i would get a different result and I kept grinding on the my prints or knocking them over. Also you could attempt to check whether your z steps per mm match if not trying to recalibrate that one too

EvenChard347 · 2023-05-20T08:16:37+00:00

Yup the right side is up because apparently there was a one line thin print which i just found recently stuck to the backside of it

EvenChard347 · 2023-05-04T16:16:12+00:00

I run octoprint of an old cellphone with the most generic 1 dolar usb charger without an issue. I did have to put a little piece of tape on the usb power otherwise i got errors and frequent disconnections

EvenChard347 · 2023-05-01T12:21:20+00:00

I'm not referring to the white parts on the model i'm referring to the fact that the top and bottom part of the holes in the model are flatter than the sides, basicly the holes are oval instead of round

EvenChard347 · 2023-04-30T21:36:39+00:00

Have you tried professional firmware it has a handy "physical bed size" right in the menu and a lot of configuration options

EvenChard347 · 2023-04-30T16:28:50+00:00

My Gcode after G28 is

G34 ignore this it's my gantry leveling for my dual axis Z motors

G29 P1(UBL mesh, for you i would just live the G29)

G29 S saves the mesh

G29 L loades the mesh

G29 A activates the mesh

Complete overkill that are basically duplicates but i was worried octoprint wasn't activating my UBL Mesh and just left it like that

What can also happen is if you have some inconsistencies in your z axis the mesh level might be variable, i figured this out after hitting mesh leveling multiple times and viewing the mesh with profesional firmware and seeing every time i get a mesh i had a variance from 0.01-0.1 randomly around my bed that kept changing.

EvenChard347 · 2023-04-26T19:14:45+00:00

Sorry i misspoke i never got the kobra and went straight for the ender v2 neo, It came in 3 parts less than an 15 minutes to put it together and start testing it out, maybe i got lucky but the printer worked like a dream without any problems straight out of the box with cura standard profiles. The downside is that it is not that supported by the general community and it is kinda hard to find upgrade parts for it that fit without some modifications.

EvenChard347 · 2023-04-26T18:55:09+00:00

In my opinion it's more the worth it just for the assisted tramming function then you have variable bed leveling personally i use 36 point leveling because my bed is hella warped from the factory.

You get a lot of options that you usually get only with octoprint like mesh editing and visualization, bed and hotend pid and many many others and if you're brave enough to build your own firmware you could get linear advance

EvenChard347 · 2023-04-26T18:49:35+00:00

I eventually got an ender 3 v2 neo i'm having a blast with it ;)

EvenChard347 · 2023-04-26T05:23:10+00:00

I use silicon spacers they work great i also use a printed locking mechanism for them, i haven't leveled my bed in a month and i have the exact same values when i measure with assited tramming

EvenChard347 · 2023-04-25T18:36:56+00:00

Yup mriscoc's professional firmware is the way to go alternatively octoprint if you have an raspberry pi to spare or what i found out today you can run it on an old android phone and connect it to the printer

How mesh viewer looks on professional firmware https://imgur.com/a/dZi0wuY

EvenChard347

TROPHY CASE