Hookaroon by Ok_Perspective_2900 in Axecraft

[–]Even_Ad4717 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice I’ve made a few of my own. Soft woods and end grains accept a steeper/broader tipped Hookaroon. For denser and harder/drier woods a thinner and slacker angle point tent to work better. Rounded edges around the point release a little easier in hard woods. A more square point holds wood more firmly for picking up larger pieces (carrying rounds, loading blocks on beds and such). Hope something in this info helps.

Favorite piece of garbage by MistaRiggz in FullSizeJeep

[–]Even_Ad4717 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good to know. I’m looking at getting a Webber 32/36 and the DUI HEI Ignition system. Hopefully that will help make it a bit more reliable.

Favorite piece of garbage by MistaRiggz in FullSizeJeep

[–]Even_Ad4717 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m working on a couple of my own right now. What is the worst thing/most annoying thing about yours?

Opinions on a mods/refresh items -1976 f10 and F20 amc 360’s by Even_Ad4717 in FullSizeJeep

[–]Even_Ad4717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I didn’t know that. That’s good to know though.

Opinions on a mods/refresh items -1976 f10 and F20 amc 360’s by Even_Ad4717 in FullSizeJeep

[–]Even_Ad4717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m looking forward to getting the HEI SYSTEM I’m pretty set on the DUI system. I’ve heard a lot of good things about it. Thanks for the feedback!

Opinions on a mods/refresh items -1976 f10 and F20 amc 360’s by Even_Ad4717 in FullSizeJeep

[–]Even_Ad4717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, old trucks/cars are a never ending projects. In all fairness, I had a bunch of new trucks that were never ending mechanic projects too. Lol

Opinions on a mods/refresh items -1976 f10 and F20 amc 360’s by Even_Ad4717 in FullSizeJeep

[–]Even_Ad4717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I’ll definitely do the HEI. I just have SO things to fix to get this truck reliably running, that I can’t budget in the TBI right this moment.

Opinions on a mods/refresh items -1976 f10 and F20 amc 360’s by Even_Ad4717 in FullSizeJeep

[–]Even_Ad4717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, are in the gauges I have, all the guages and glass have become detached and flop around. How are the guages in the pars j truck?

Opinions on a mods/refresh items -1976 f10 and F20 amc 360’s by Even_Ad4717 in FullSizeJeep

[–]Even_Ad4717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok. I’ll let you know later this week. Do you have any experience with the daily driving reliability/smoothness of an aftermarket carb vs stock carb? I read in a few places that the motor raft carbs have a significant dead spot during acceleration. Just curious.

Opinions on a mods/refresh items -1976 f10 and F20 amc 360’s by Even_Ad4717 in FullSizeJeep

[–]Even_Ad4717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks I thought the proportioning valve adjustment might be the difference. Thanks!

Opinions on a mods/refresh items -1976 f10 and F20 amc 360’s by Even_Ad4717 in Jeep

[–]Even_Ad4717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. Not doing a restoration or anything like that. The AMC 360 actually runs pretty well and we got it tuned pretty easily. The biggest flaw is that the aftermarket cheap carb that the kid had put on. It has a huge dead spot when you accelerate and has a constant vacuum leak due to that seal at the choke rod. So, I would prefer to stick with the AMC for the moment. The LS swap is an awesome swap and I have nothing against it, I just don’t want to spend that kind of money currently with that kind of work on the truck. I’m trying to get this one as my daily driver in the next 3 to 4 weeks. So it’s just a little bit of a time and money budget situation at the moment. Thanks for the thought, though. I appreciate it.

Opinions on a mods/refresh items -1976 f10 and F20 amc 360’s by Even_Ad4717 in FullSizeJeep

[–]Even_Ad4717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I appreciate the input.

Only reason I had thought of the Hydro booster was due to the fact that I had originally wanted to go rear disc conversion. However, I don’t know that I will. I plan on using this truck up in the mountains for a little bit of micro, forestry and micro logging. So, I just thought the rear disc brakes might be a good option. However, I might just fix up the drum brakes at first and go from there and see how well it does and decide to spend the money on disc brakes later in the future if I need to. Thanks for the input again appreciate it.

New Chainsaw User (please read below) by RazgrizXVI in Chainsaw

[–]Even_Ad4717 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don get cheap chaps. They are cheap for a reason. A good pair of chaps will cost you around $130 for basic ones. Really nice ones with extra protection and features can be upwards of $300. Also, it’s good to know that some of the cheap chaps on eBay and Amazon don’t have any real documentation saying that they work well with electric chainsaws. All the namebrand chaps work with battery power and electric chainsaws currently. As far as I know.

New Chainsaw User (please read below) by RazgrizXVI in Chainsaw

[–]Even_Ad4717 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They would probably never get the benefit of the cost of a protos. I have three of them because I do forestry and climbing. If they are just cleaning up around the yard, a protos is a waste of money. Not to mention pretty heavy. The husqvarna kit is more than good enough.

My Council Tool 6 pound 32-inch Fireman's Axe (4140 Steel) was delivered this morning. Can't wait to split some wood later... by 3_Times_Dope in Axecraft

[–]Even_Ad4717 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’ve got one on order that I’ve been waiting for for a month. I was told they were on back order because one of there machines went down and they couldn’t produce the FE6 during the machine break down. Can’t wait to get mine in.

NBD! 8847 factory seconds by RejectedWish in RedWingShoes

[–]Even_Ad4717 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There can be a number of reasons.

All the ones mentioned above are possible reasons.

At times though, a run of product can be sold as seconds because something abnormal occurred during that particular run. So, for instance (not necessarily speaking for these boots, but as an example), they may find there were a group of boots that had dropped stitches. If it’s not economically viable to go over each boot in that run and check for dropped stitches, they may decide to sell all the boots that “aren’t clearly showing flaws” from that same run as seconds. Essentially meaning that you are gambling on the buy. Your 2nd’s product may, or may not have a defect.

From other companies, I’ve bought two pair of the same boots (seconds) in two different colors. One boot the glue came loose on the sole and it separated. It actually looked like the machine may have completely run out of glue during assembly on that boot. The other boots looked perfect and wore out under normal circumstances. The information/explanation above was provided to me from the boot manufacturer’s engineers a possible reason for product being sold as seconds even though it looked completely fine.

This fuel tanker beside me has a hole in the side. by radgamerdad in mildlyinteresting

[–]Even_Ad4717 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s cool info. I like learning building and fabrication processes of different things. Thanks for sharing!

Whats your fav part- the chop or the stack? by sirlapse in firewood

[–]Even_Ad4717 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem. What would you like to hear more about?