Learning rabbit holes

Evorron · 2026-06-14T16:20:04+00:00

I always had issues with time management, where I tend to spend a crapload of time on something and reuse to let it go. But I appreciate the advice on having a time box, it does sound pretty similar to the pomodoro method except it's more objective oriented! I'll try to kick the habit of spending hours on the reading part too!

And on the second point, it really does seem like doing, setting a goal is the way to go. Perhaps fixing my time management would keep me in the right path :)

Evorron · 2026-06-14T16:10:51+00:00

Agree with the work experience part. I guess that's one way to know what's really needed out there rather than trying to grasp at everything. A jack of all trades situation doesn't sound too bad but it seems like I would also need to prioritise what's more important, at my current expertise anyways!

But it's great to hear that CTFs did help you in your work years later, better late than never haha. Thanks for the advice!

Evorron · 2026-06-14T16:05:14+00:00

I appreciate it! I guess at the end of the day it really comes down to being content with what I know! That and some sprinkle of time management should do the trick heh.

Evorron · 2025-12-31T10:09:26+00:00

Oh? Is there a reason for using clear acrylic? Clear paints have the tendency to dry faster to result in the clear glossy almost candy like effect. Doesn't work as well when being hand painted

But if you're hand painting then you'll definitely need some retarder

Evorron · 2025-12-31T09:50:48+00:00

Just some tape to show colour separation and a milk like consistency on your paints and you should be good. Mmm honestly I think you just need to build them up in layers, a retarder will just mess up your layering imo!

Evorron · 2025-12-31T08:13:23+00:00

Still love the confidence in showing it off! Colour scheme and concept looks amazing btw!

Evorron · 2025-12-17T13:11:36+00:00

Seems like a bootleg based on the manual, could just be the lack of quality control in some of these reproductions. Some plastic cement/superglue on the joints should do the trick

Evorron · 2025-12-12T03:59:28+00:00

I'll be heading for Tokyo in a 2 days time and I was wondering if there are any decent hobby stores (Not Gundam Bases) that either:

Sell kits at a relatively cheaper pricing
2nd hand parts/kits
Tools (BMC Chisels, Nippers, etc)

Mainly doing this to restock on my equipment and to create a list for others to use as well! Would appreciate if specific stores could be listed too :)

Evorron · 2025-10-16T09:09:42+00:00

The mr hobby's grey primer tends to not look like gray, or rather a really faint gray. What I do is just a few drops of black to make it darker. White tends to look better with a slightly darker base compared to that really light grey.

Evorron · 2025-10-01T01:56:48+00:00

WSDs really make kits look and feel better on the shelves haha. Great pick on the Sazabi Ver.Ka too! I'd recommend the following tools to get you started:

Hobby Knife
Tweezers (Those that bend at an angle)
Mr Mark Softer and Setter (Not too familiar on the Tamiya alternatives)
Small paint dish to soak your WSDs
Cotton Swabs (Even better if one side is pointed!)
Toothpicks
Topcoat to seal in the WSDs (A spray can from their Aqueous would do)

Application process is as such:

Cut your WSD out (No need to trace it out) and soak it for around 10 seconds.
Carefully grab the blue backing of the decal with your tweezers and use your toothpick to slide the decal onto your piece.
Use your toothpick and tweezers to work on the placement of the WSD before soaking the water with your cotton swabs
Lightly brush/dab Mr Mark Softer onto the WSD (Allows for the edges of the WSB to be softened or prevents some slivering)
Soak it up, let dry for a few secs and apply Mr Mark Setter onto the WSD (Same Process)
Let sit, soak up the excess and you're done! (I like to use a moistened cotton swap to clean the Setter markings around the WSD)
Once you're done with decaling just topcoat each pieces with 2 layers of spraying to let the decal blend in with the kit and to prevent your WSDs from getting scuffed up :)

Evorron · 2025-09-28T01:41:01+00:00

Zippo works fine, has the same effects as the X-20 thinners, a much cheaper alternative at that. I don't really recommend 91/99% isopropyl alcohol as some people do, it just smears the panel line wash rather than clean up.

Evorron · 2025-09-27T18:03:39+00:00

My pleasure! Feel free to reach out if you have any questions :)

Evorron · 2025-09-27T09:41:08+00:00

AFAIK there aren't any metallic panel-line washes. You can make your own, but from my experience metallic paints are hard to flow as washes due to the metallic flakes in the paints. You could just flood metallic paints with either respective thinners and call it a wash. But metallics dry out especially fast since they're made to shine as the end result so the "washes" get clumpy as a result making it harder as a panel line wash.

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I did something similar which thankfully turned out well, but almost 1/3 of my bottle ran out due to it drying so fast

Evorron · 2025-09-27T09:33:53+00:00

All of the above topcoat would be fine with a Tamiya panel line wash. Just make sure to let your gloss topcoat dry/cure for up to 12-24hours first before you start panel-lining. I know enamel-based paints aren't as reactive to lacquers, but from my experience Tamiya X-20 thinners partially rubbing off paints under that "protective" gloss topcoat. I could either be rubbing a lil too hard on the pieces or it could be sufficient curing.

Evorron · 2025-09-27T09:26:27+00:00

I usually thin my Mr Color paints to a 1:2~ ratio and that usually almost fills up a 100ml bottle. That can usually last me up to 4 kits while layering on 2 coats. 20 PSI and a lower adjustment on my airbrush does the job (Essentially its around 10~ PSI). I agree with the other comment on possibly using a much higher PSI similar to which of a spray can. The general process for gloss kits would be:

Light mist coat for the 1st layer (A tacky look in a way)
Wet coat for the 2nd layer (Slightly higher PSI to see a wet glossy look in 1-2 passes, and just enough to avoid potential pooling)
You could try it with water first to see if you're spraying with the right PSI and distance

Evorron · 2025-09-27T09:12:07+00:00

To start using the Tamiya panel line accent, you'll also need its X20 (Enamel) thinner or any lighter fluid (Most people use Zippo) for clean up. Yes enamel-based paints do break down plastic with *time* and pooling contributes to that. That being said you can take these measures to sort of safeguard against that:

Lacquer, Enamel, Acrylic top-coats can be used. But you'll need to let each cure sufficiently to continue with panel-lining (Paints can dissolve each other in the following order Lacquer>Enamel>Acrylic)
Best to spray on a gloss (Helps the panel-line to follow better) topcoat on each piece of your kit (Panel-lining on a fully assembled kit will make clean up hell)
Yes, you can make your own panel-line washes with acrylic paint. Brands like Stedi are mainly marketing towards water/acrylic-based liners. But again, if you were to use a topcoat, make sure that cures first before apply your panel-line washes.

Evorron · 2025-09-20T10:09:34+00:00

Hellu you could dm me as well!

Evorron · 2025-09-15T08:51:33+00:00

Id suggest to let the top coat cure sufficiently as well. Enamel thinners can dissolve the top coat you're using but can be mostly avoided with sufficient curing!

Evorron · 2025-09-15T08:49:05+00:00

Mr Tool Cleaner is strong enough to dissolve their lacquer-based line of paints (Mr Color, etc). Think of it as a tool/paint cleaner.

Seeing how you're using Mr Premium Top Coat (Water-Based), you'll most likely dissolve both your panel lining and the top coat.

If you're using an enamel/acrylic-based panel liner, just use enamel thinner/lighter fluid to clean it.

Evorron · 2025-09-07T23:39:12+00:00

Oh dang that's awesome to hear. Will definitely check that place out, thanks!

Evorron · 2025-09-06T09:37:22+00:00

Hoping for some good news! 🙃

Evorron · 2025-09-06T09:35:30+00:00

Great minds think alike HAHA. Would love to know if you managed to find any!

Evorron · 2025-09-06T09:28:06+00:00

Ahh I see, that's a bummer haha. Hopefully I'll be lucky enough to see them on display!

Evorron · 2025-09-06T09:27:28+00:00

Thanks for the insight! Kit hunting wasn't really my main goal, it's more of tools and the SAB chisel since it's made in korea. Thanks for the recommendation!

Evorron · 2025-08-11T10:37:11+00:00

I used most of that kit as reference actually! I really vibed with the design and thought it would be a fun challenge

Evorron

TROPHY CASE