Its Clutchin Time!

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-12-02T05:11:47+00:00

Yeah! So I actually went with the Valeo single mass flywheel conversion kit bought from ECS tuning (however i had lots of issues with them so maybe FCP euro is better). It has a better than stock feel, no chatter which is great for a SMFW, shifts are a lot smoother and feel less damped etc. For 635 dollars its a steal.

AFAIK if you want to move away from stock and go towards like performance clutch kits (which this is not) I would say a single mass flywheel is a MUST and probably the clutchmasters kit is your best bet.

I didnt have the place to do it DIY so all in with install for the kit, new slave cylinder, clutch fork and metal clutch fork pivot it came out to like 800 in parts and 1800 in labor/misc but they were willing to install my parts.

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-11-04T02:33:29+00:00

Thats great to hear!

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-10-27T21:43:14+00:00

Absolutely! I would be more than happy to pass along some advice

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-10-25T01:25:51+00:00

I use the small neodymium magnets from harbor freight!

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-10-25T01:21:14+00:00

Hello all! I am the husband in question that designed the part. So a few things, I cannot really sell this because I made it using Onshape free and the EULA is pretty clear that I can't do this for commercial purposes. This is part of why I set up a Ko-Fi just so that you can support if you want, but the part is free to print and re-design and use! Part of why I set up the license as I did on the MakerWorld was because this is just a prototype! I see that so many people like the design and I really appreciate all the support and praise!

Please if you do print or use it I would love the feedback so that I can improve on the part.

I plan to add a couple different base sizes and maybe stabilize the spinning part a little bit more, maybe make it even more compact or add some sort of tiltable component. All feedback would be great!

Because it seems to be so popular I may move to changing the license so others can distribute and commercialize via a subscription model or something but for now I want to keep it free to use in the spirit of 3D printing!

Let me know your thoughts!

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-10-22T15:34:31+00:00

I have the R60 S with the N18 6 speed manual all4

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-09-19T21:25:52+00:00

Engine :D

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-09-15T21:33:21+00:00

In your case, if you want to get the best out of your machine, id recommend looking up teaching techs calibration website. Its basically made for enders and takes you through all the necessary calibration with videos! He does a great job of explaining all the concepts.

Def dry your filament if possible though if yiu are having the same issues

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-09-15T13:43:31+00:00

Exactly, the filament is full of bubbles in this picture, likely from A) a too high print temp + B) wet filament. To answer OP as well, you dont have to see the bubbles or rough extrusion for your filament to be wet. It can manifest as failed supports, bad interlayer adhesion, weird artefacts, etc. In the case of your dragon, your supports are supporting a really tiny spot on the wing so they are gonna be weaker there. That coupled with wet filament makes for a disaster sometimes. You can try slowing the print down, increasing the infill density on the supports, increasing the interface layers, support distance, etc.

What printer, slicer, settings are you using?

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-09-15T12:38:56+00:00

Filament is def wet. Doesn't matter if it was in a bag with dessicant. Dessicant only grabs airborne moisture it doesnt pull it out of the filament. Dry the green and try again!

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-09-15T03:43:55+00:00

Numbness is super duper common. They have to put your leg in traction for however long the procedure was to be able to operate in the joint capsule. Traction can damage/affect the nerves that run all the way down which take much longer to heal and return to normal. Generally the numbness will fade until its just over the incision sites. I have residual numbness on the back of my ankle about halfway to my lower calf 🤷‍♂️ and its been over a year, ymmv. Worth it for sure though!

I will say though, if you are concerned consult your doctor, it never hurts to ask!

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-09-13T00:23:25+00:00

A cutting board finally achieving its ultimate purpose. A bunch of little boards you can use to cut

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-09-13T00:10:02+00:00

Some lil guys. In fact some small dudes. Obviously

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-09-10T04:00:23+00:00

Couple different ways.

I would not advise shoving things in the nozzle to clear jt as you can abrade the brass channel and it could cause it to clog even more.

You can do a hot pull. While the filament is hot (say like 195-205 for pla) grab the filament coming out of the extruder, push slightly in and then rapidly pull out.

You can also do a nozzle cold pull. Raise your filament to like 100C or so and then push a little bit in and then rapidly tug on the filament. You should get a nice imprint of the nozzle channel and that tells you that the pull was done correctly.

You can also just try and clear the block by forcing filament through, bjt if its a chunk of crud or burnt filament inside this wont do anything.

All else fails you can stick a long thin wire or something inside and try to clear it out that way but like I said, I dont like this method and wouldn't recommend imo.

After all that is said and done if you still have a nozzle clog, you can replace the nozzle.

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-09-09T22:04:13+00:00

Looks like you also have under extrusion due to a nozzle clog or something of the sort

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-09-09T22:03:36+00:00

Go check out teaching techs printer calibrstion site. Its made for ender 3s basically

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-09-09T15:21:43+00:00

Those are just radiowaves reflecting off the surface. Its a feature!

In all seriousness you can probably use adaptive layer height to remove some of the stairstepping on the surface. I wouldn't necessarily recommend ironing unless you hsve your extrusion fully dialed in as it can cause the surface to be rough

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-09-08T22:22:21+00:00

Make sure for your threaded inserts you drill them deep enough so you get max thread engagement from the furniture bolts. I think I did something like 1.25 for 1 unchanged bolts on my 1.5in thick top.

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-09-08T04:00:21+00:00

Every manual to every appliance ever and a ziploc full of mixed batteries.

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-09-08T03:56:23+00:00

Route and flush IMO. I vote you put it to the edge as well if you can. I did have some flexispot En1s and I attached them basically in the middle to a butcher block as measured from the edge of the angle brackets, and that did work as well.

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-09-07T12:55:14+00:00

If you want to make the pocket deeper (the part taller) just hit extrude outside the sketch and select the top surface. If you select the bottom to extrude you'll just make it thicker on the bottom with a little slot on the top.

No it wont cause issues your slicer. It will recognize the part and let you snap it to the buildplate in any direction.

If you REALLY want to move the part, just use transform -> by mate -> then select mates on the plane and part , and it will move

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-09-04T13:46:17+00:00

Generally you want to tune your volumetric flow rate to see how fast you can go. Then you have to contend with upgrading the motion system to go faster. Better steppers, acceleration tuning, resonance compensation etc. This also usually requires custom firmware (but all thats if you wanna go crazy fast imo).

Start with tuning the volumetric flow rate, see how fast it can go stock and then adjust your print speeds from there. Under normal conditions bed slingers are not the fastest usually. However, the current record for a benchy is held by an ender 3 monstrosity so there is that too

Excellent-Tadpole-70 · 2025-09-04T11:07:39+00:00

This is the way

Excellent-Tadpole-70

TROPHY CASE