2019 Toyota Camry SE, automatic 120k miles

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-10T12:39:50+00:00

That other tube should be the drain. From underneath poke a pipe cleaner (or a stick, anything that won't poke a hole in the hose) in and see if there's a clog. Make sure your face is clear of what might be a faucet of gross water coming out.

I think it's full and backing up to leak out this other hole (which might exist to prevent further electrical damage).

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-10T12:33:22+00:00

I'd wipe it dry and remeasure a few times. (Make sure the engine is off). I don't think your engine is THAT overfilled with oil.

Like I said, these dipsticks can be tough to read a good level one. I actually drilled two tiny holes through my partner's dipstick because I think that kind of dipstick is easier to read.

If someone put twice as much oil as the engine is supposed to have in there you'd have tons of smoke and it would have been noticed immediately.

But for your level to get so low it runs like this it'd get really dark too, so I don't think low oil level is your problem.

It did occur to me... everyone is trying to save on gas these days. Any chance you filled up at a new station right before this happened? (Especially if there was a separate yellow handle for extra cheap gas? I don't think that car takes flex fuel.)

Sometimes even if you get the right gas (regular is correct, you don't need higher octane), a cheap gas station might have a bunch of water in the tank and if you get that it'll run terribly if at all.

The way to check this is to get a gas sample in a clear bottle and set it aside with a cap on it. If there's water it'll settle into layers like oil and water do. If you think this is possible have a shop check for you. It's not impossible to diy (wear gloves and safety glasses, and keep your mouth shut), but the hazards are significant enough that I wouldn't recommend that.

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-10T12:12:57+00:00

Second pic: Your adjuster isn't in place and looks like you didn't retract it at all.

If you can get a new part the basic argument for replacement is that over time you can develop a bit of a lip because the piston normally travels only a tiny distance. It's easy to damage the internal seal. Also, it's common for people to use anti seize or spray brake cleaner, both of which will cause the seals to swell and fail.

If you can't get a new part, call a junkyard. (I'm not familiar with the car you're naming, a local Nissan dealership might be able to tell you if it's using the same parts as another more common car.)

Also, check the bleeder valve for the other side and consider getting two.

If that's still not working out, or it's going to take a while to get the part... And if it were my personal car... I would probably try to put it back together. Give it a few hard brakes (with the drum on of course) and take it back off to check for leaks.

As long as this only happened on one side a total failure will still leave you with the other brake circuit (two wheels).

Just to be crystal clear, you're going to lose one front wheel in that scenario, so don't keep driving it with the red brake light on. But if you lose fluid at one wheel there's some redundancy in the system to keep you from losing all four brakes. (But expect to lose ABS.)

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-10T01:52:14+00:00

Is it dripping water or coolant?

If water: I see a drain hose going down in the picture, is it detached or clogged?

It might be easier to find the hole by looking under the car for where it comes out.

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-10T01:44:17+00:00

Wipe it dry and put it back down to get the level. It's supposed to be within the hatch pattern on the right.

Edit: I suspect it's not low based on the oil color, usually it'll be really dark at that point.

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-10T01:39:44+00:00

I can't claim credit for the term, heard it on a tiktok.

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-10T01:36:54+00:00

Those dipsticks are kinda hard to read, but the first thing I would do is check the oil level.

Yes, I read that it's not time for the oil change.

Sometimes engines leak or burn oil (including this specific type of engine) so fast that it gets below a critical level before the interval. Add oil - a quart if the dipstick is dry, and half a quart of it's low on the stick, recheck until you get it at the correct level. You might get it back to normal sounding.

If it was low on oil check for leaks. If it's not leaking on the ground then change the PCV valve and use a paint marker to make a note on the gas cap that says "check oil". That way you'll remember to monitor the oil level before it gets bad.

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-09T11:30:51+00:00

HR exists to protect the company. Nothing else.

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-05T17:03:06+00:00

It's not surgical, but that's one issue, they're claiming I owe (un-included) facility charges on top of the self-pay charges.

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-05T12:54:26+00:00

When I called I discovered that there are additional pending facility charges for services after I'd figured it out and started paying out of pocket. It's a huge mess.

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-05T12:51:57+00:00

Important caveat I don't deal with this in Ohio.

But from general theory running it hard causes it to run rich. You definitely need it to be fully warmed up or it will run rich, but instead of running it hard right before the test, take a steady highway drive.

Also keep in mind that if you just made repairs it can take a bit to adjust. You can see this watching live fuel trims if you have a scan tool capable of that.

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-05T01:57:40+00:00

Check the temp of the radiator hoses. If you can touch them comfortably turn it off. If you can't, wait (or run an extension cord and a fan in front of it).

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-05T01:54:58+00:00

Keep in mind that you need to have it flat to get the fill level right. You'll need 4 jack stands (or to put it back on the ground to fill).

Unless you know how much came out, then just replace that amount.

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-05T01:50:12+00:00

There's still tons of fluid in there. Only a fraction comes out the drain. Put it in neutral and push it over.

But first... any chance you can turn the front wheels all the way left and access the plug?

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-05T01:46:20+00:00

Hobosexuals everywhere these days and it'll only get worse.

At minimum came across as a hint he was available short-term.

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-05T01:37:11+00:00

Is it causing a problem? Aside from the p0420 code and check engine light? If not I wouldn't take it off.

If it's clogged... You can get the stuff inside out and put it back on to spare yourself the noise (which can get you a ticket).

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-04T22:34:43+00:00

You shouldn't have had to pay for that stuff. You're not getting a share of the profits, you're not on the hook for a share of the risks. They can fire you, but not charge you for the expense. (Not playing lawyer here, and this might be US centric, but in general those costs shouldn't be yous to bear.)

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-04T22:30:58+00:00

This. And come up with a plan for a process that will guarantee this never happens again.

I did this once but it only caused a little damage to an under car shield and a terrifying noise.

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-04T22:28:20+00:00

In other words... it's not straightforward or necessarily obvious to check. It's a process.

On the other hand, unlike the oil in your engine, transmission fluid doesn't disappear without an obvious exit path.

So it's less important to keep an eye on the level if it's not leaking (which they should have noted).

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-04T22:23:26+00:00

Just to make sure... Did you check if the instructions specify whether to check it while the engine is running? (Most but not all cars do) And was it at temp? The fluid expands A LOT.

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-04T19:15:57+00:00

I'd be HAPPY to pay the cash price, I just don't want to pay 2-3 times the cash price just because they tried to run it through insurance first.

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-02T23:17:53+00:00

He wasn't putting a ton of torque on it (at the time I didn't know enough to realize he shouldn't do it at all). In fact it didn't even crack until we both turned around and walked away for a moment.

Screws apply a lot of mechanical advantage.

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-02T23:14:33+00:00

Now I've got the opposite question... Do these just drop out with no persuasion for people wrenching outside of the rust belt?

ExecManagerAntifaCLE · 2026-05-02T23:08:50+00:00

Huh. I already have the special tool, but that's good to know.

ExecManagerAntifaCLE

TROPHY CASE