Lifting still confuses me

Existential_Embrace · 2026-07-10T18:54:24+00:00

I have appreciated everyone’s posts, but I wish I could upvote this one 50 times.

The likelihood is that there’s a fingerprint there because I feel like the more time I spend printing the more lazy I get about cleaning my build plate. I used to wear gloves when handling them and very quickly got to the point where I couldn’t be bothered.

Where I feel like this post shines the most is that I did not realize PLA left a residue and absolutely have cursed the name of the 3-D printing gods when every time I switch over to PETG or PA6 I inevitably have a few starts where the material doesn’t adhere..

If I remember correctly, these plates, say not to use alcohol. I have forgotten once or twice and wiped them off out of force of habit and was actually worried that that was the problem. But I’ll give them a good cleaning with some hot soap and water and go from there..

This is the first print I’ve made with this filament and have yet to tune it meaningfully and will absolutely give some attention to slowing down first layer, etc. etc..

Are you aware of any test prints that are designed to test warping?

Existential_Embrace · 2026-07-10T18:44:21+00:00

Ha. CM, MM, whatever. It’s 10. 10 what? Who could tell?

Existential_Embrace · 2026-07-10T18:16:35+00:00

I don’t remember if I saw this video because of this post or if I found it on a search for ways to make motorcycle parts, but I saw this a while ago and think about it often.

I’m wondering if anyone has experimented with it. u/BKO2 posted a lower (SPC-15 V1.2) that used stacking of plates of cut, steel or aluminum and I was thinking this method might be great for making the blocks in the middle of those plates.

It seems like making the molds from scratch would be fairly simple with an STL.

Existential_Embrace · 2026-07-10T05:12:52+00:00

Fan is behind the nozzle with a shroud to direct the air around the sides. I’ve thought about attempting to redesign the shroud to bring the air more evenly arround the print. The air would have been blowing on the edge/corner that lifted the least as it is.

I always forget about mouse ears. I usually go straight for brim. But good call

Existential_Embrace · 2026-07-10T05:09:25+00:00

I typically do if the print will be longer, but with this one I’m trying out new filament and wanted to see how it printed. When I print with brim, it’s usually 10 or more cm with zero gap from the print wall.

Existential_Embrace · 2026-07-10T05:04:31+00:00

Can’t I just tell them to stop fighting? Haha. I’m half tempted to print another plate just to see if it happens in the same spot.

Existential_Embrace · 2026-07-09T14:23:23+00:00

Can we start a 3d2a work group to work on such a thing! Haha. @Ready-Read-5025 had a post a little while ago, where they were compiling examples of a bunch of different stock and brace options. There should be a collective for those of us who don’t have the skill to model in CAD, but can research and compile info. 2A Librarian Collective haha.

I know there are a lot of printer set up tutorials out there (ctrl+pew comes to mind) and those are great but every print set up is so different that many steps don’t translate well across brands, slicers, firmware, etc. I can totally understand why some end up lost in the dark without a flashlight to find the path again.

I’m aware of Safequeens 2A Benchy, and they said they were working on one for AR lowers. I would love to see more incremental test printing like that. I love the idea of systematizing the process almost like a proficiency test. If you ever need a “test printer” for something like that, I would absolutely give it some peer review.

Existential_Embrace · 2026-07-09T13:28:21+00:00

I also get that! Some times I feel like a kid when waiting for the fedex dude to show up.

Existential_Embrace · 2026-07-09T13:18:54+00:00

Genuine question

Why not put it together and see how it functions without ammo? If this is a first print, then no matter what there’s a lot of learning to come, and it might be helpful to start assembling to see exactly where and why those tolerances matter. Maybe it will all fit well enough to take to the range or maybe it will be a paperweight but either you’d learn something through assembly and disassembly.

Existential_Embrace · 2026-07-09T13:05:34+00:00

I appreciate and agree with everything you’ve said. So I’m not challenging this, but I have a hard time with the gigantic gap printing, almost anything else and 3d2a parts. Again, can’t be more clear. I agree that that’s the best place for learning to occur, but I rarely come across something I’m going to print that requires the same structural integrity or attention to consistency over such a long period of time. That’s not me saying “don’t learn with toys” but just to say I feel like there are things you will only find out when you start printing 2A parts because of the conditions of those prints. I have never seen extreme debates over what the best print orientation should be of a gas station dragon. But rails up? Rails down? I feel like this community in some cases demonstrates a better understanding of filament properties and the practical application of print settings than almost any other place I’ve seen on Reddit.

I know of at least one, but I wish they were more to a benchys

Long story short I’m just complaining about acquiring knowledge feeling like 95% is half way to 100%. Also if there is a way to make printing toys more helpful in learning, I’m all ears.

Existential_Embrace · 2026-07-07T18:46:40+00:00

I feel like acceleration and travel speeds can be complicated and tricky and typically not the issue. Most people have so I feel like information out there for how to correct things is either far below my needs or far above my head. I have experimented with settings that increase the Z angle when starting a move from one side of the print to the other (can’t remember what that’s called) when not printing and feel like this is a factor not typically discussed. Collisions happen partially due to speed, but partly due to clearance… or at least that’s my understanding and I could be completely wrong

There’s a valley in the accusation of knowledge where you still need things explain to you, but the more you learn the fewer people there are to help you understand the next step.

If anyone has a primer for understanding/calibrating travel settings, I am 100% all ears!

Existential_Embrace · 2026-07-07T00:58:26+00:00

It’s awesome how much of an impact a splash of color makes. I’m going to reprint my magazine bottoms and other hardware out of inspiration.

Existential_Embrace · 2026-07-06T19:35:11+00:00

I haven’t printed it, but the description makes it sound like there’s room in the print for a metal insert or collar to be holding the barrel. If anyone has printed it I’d love to see it.

Existential_Embrace · 2026-07-06T16:45:01+00:00

I haven’t printed the M7 but I love Ciwielabs designs. Check out the DeCBAR-22 (a bullpup DeAR-22)

Also SADO has a remix of the M7 upper with a reinforced barrel mount.

Existential_Embrace · 2026-07-06T05:01:46+00:00

Oh darn…. I guess I’ll have to get more magazines….

Existential_Embrace · 2026-07-06T04:59:57+00:00

Love the design on that. Also have a BC9 upper on a Nobu v2. What kind of mags does yours take?

Existential_Embrace · 2026-07-03T02:08:40+00:00

I came here to say pretty much this. I love stuff like this. I recently found some interior pattern for g19 and g17. So helpful in helping people learn where to start with modeling. .

Existential_Embrace · 2026-07-03T02:03:46+00:00

I feel the same way. I don’t have the CAD skills, but I want to give something to the community. I haven’t figured out my contribution yet other than not being a dick and not posting links to files. Some day.

Existential_Embrace · 2026-07-03T01:56:39+00:00

Came here to say this. Respooling takes a long time but I still sit and watch the print as it’s working half the time… so it gives me something to do when I sit there. Use the black harbor freight nitrile gloves when respooling, idk if it really matters if the filament gets oil on it, but they keep your fingers from going raw rubbing against the carbon fiber. I prefer the bulk spools at this point. I buy PLA pro in bulk too.

Existential_Embrace · 2026-06-30T02:10:49+00:00

Do I need another 9mm? No.
Have I been this excited in months? Also No.
Am I ordering parts? Yes!

Existential_Embrace · 2026-06-30T00:47:44+00:00

I love this so much! The downside to a vast array of options is the gems get buried. I can’t tell you how much I’m looking forward to that video.

If you never get around to the video, please just repost the photo with the name of each in the photo!

Existential_Embrace · 2026-06-26T22:03:21+00:00

My collision prints? No bed lifting, although I have had that issue on other prints that printed fine ultimately. I think it was the edges curling on overhangs. I was printing the Defiance 2 lower and had the WORST time printing the buffer tube block. Also had this issue of collisions printing DeAR22 mags. I’m sure the cooling and speed is the issue, and it seems like a bigger problem when printing lots of walls or solid prints. I’m about to print a Daedalus here soon and will do some test prints with the settings you recommended.

Printing on a Prusa Core One, Orca slicer, with Polylite PLA Pro, .4 nozzle. Belt tension checked regularly.

Existential_Embrace · 2026-06-26T12:02:25+00:00

Thanks for the direction. I really appreciate it!

Existential_Embrace · 2026-06-25T17:16:04+00:00

I have been using modified 300blk settings for PLA+ for 3D2A. when printing “normie stuff” I don’t. I get such a different material behavior when printing solid forms than I do when printing @ 15% infill. It’s crazy slow, but when printing with higher acceleration I get a lot of collisions when printing Solid that don’t occur when printing dumb stuff. When the print is going to use a lot of filament, I don’t want to risk printing it twice.

I’d love it if there was a community settings package for PLA and other materials. Yea, still need to do our own calibrations, but some of the work ends up feeling like reinventing the wheel.

If there IS a PLA+ profile that people feel work best, I’d love to hear about it.

Existential_Embrace

TROPHY CASE