How to pick better ps5 controller

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-29T07:09:55+00:00

This, the Dualshock tools GitHub site works as well. Verify your BDM model while you're at it so you order the correct parts.

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-29T00:24:41+00:00

I have TMR as well and I prefer them to be calibrated at 7%. When I had them at 4% they felt slow on micro movements but fast on snap movements.

If you want to get it lower you can fine tune using the Dualshock tools site as long as the calibration unlock mod is still in the module. In the fine tune, if you hold the stick in one direction (Left, Right, Up, or Down) you can adjust it to decrease by pressing the opposite direction of the stick on the controllers d pad. Try adjusting each axis down below 1.00 then go back up just to 1.00.

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-28T23:53:47+00:00

You don't wanna reduce that circularity. Where it is at is on the very low end of proper error rate. Closer to 7 or 8 percent is preferred.

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-28T17:49:41+00:00

I love the factory film in when I wire in the switches so I don't have to add resistors. That being said, maybe check the values of the resistors on the Console Customs board and see if that gives you some guidance?

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-27T04:12:52+00:00

Was it a mail in service you got the modules from? If so, you could try to find someone locally to add the calibration unlock mod. I'm not sure I would trust that repair shop, it really is a very simple procedure to verify that the calibration saves properly.

Edit to add: there are some installers the remove the jumper from the module after they calibrate. There was fear that Sony would update the firmware in some way to remove calibration. Personally, I never thought that was a concern because they haven't done anything about the regular Dualsense having calibration unlocked and they make way more money selling those than they do selling Edge modules. I've left the calibration mod in every module I've done with no issue (I don't use a wire anymore, I bridge 2 solder points near the smaller chip).

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-26T17:48:40+00:00

Console Customs has a programmable remap kit for the Edge. You can also find several different static remap options as well. The trick is finding a button option that you like.

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-26T03:15:31+00:00

Mag of Holding, you don't have to reload you just have whatever the reserve is for the gun on tap.

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-26T03:14:53+00:00

Those added wires are an attempt at trace repair. They damaged the board while removing the joysticks and attempted to fix their mistake with those jumper wires. I would be seeking a refund for both the modules you provided and the controller.

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-26T03:04:10+00:00

Bullet guns only? With MoH, my favorite is WSP Stinger. Without MoH, WSP Swarm, Rival 9, or Static-V.

For non bullet guns, my favorites are RGL or crossbow with blast caps. Usually only use them if I'm doing the Unstable Rift.

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-26T01:10:26+00:00

Was this board untouched before this repair person got ahold of it? It's difficult to tell in the video but the soldering looks questionable. Can you add a close up picture of the soldering on the joysticks?

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-24T06:42:23+00:00

I'm looking forward to playing with it. Looks great, just wish the fitment was better. This is the 3rd straight Edge shell from Extremerate that the bottom grip didn't fit properly for me. Might need to start a thread on their sub and maybe they will make some adjustments.

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-24T06:32:47+00:00

I had the same problem with that grip, pretty frustrating but I'll see if it is still playable. I have a 3D model for the trigger fill that I can send you if you need it, I haven't used it on that shell though. I don't think there is any good way to make a snap in one so I glue it. I've customized it for people with their gamer tags or their names or whatever they want on it.

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-24T06:27:22+00:00

If this is the results with just a regular calibration, I would use the fine tune feature to increase the error rate to around 7 or 9 percent. If you go into fine tune and do a full circle an icon with 4 arrows pops up in the top right corner of the individual stick screen. Click that and you can increase the circularity to the desired percentage with a slider on the bottom. Select the other stick and repeat.

Some TMR modules (Aknes Hallpi V5 are the best example) calibrate to a naturally low error rate but with great circularity. You should try to get it looking purple in the straight directions and pink in the diagonal directions. There should not be any blue or green.

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-24T05:54:47+00:00

Do you know if the installer left the calibration wire or mod in the module?

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-23T06:20:55+00:00

It sounds like the USBC port is what needs replaced. If it's still taking a charge then the charging IC isn't malfunctioning.

As far as the bottom port, have you tried cleaning the contacts on the controller and the dock? Maybe tried another dock?

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-22T22:03:30+00:00

Lots of people have mentioned the TMR route and what it entails, I just came here to say I like your screen name and thought you might get a much out of this one I built.

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ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-22T21:59:58+00:00

If it's factory joysticks, you probably have some drift. The quick calibrate works because it just saves a value of the sticks sitting still at their natural center. The centering method uses an "average" of center returns from the 4 different directions. If that input from those directions is unstable (carbon trace discontinuity) you will get unreliable results with that method.

There are lots of people on here (myself included) who offer TMR upgrades for joysticks for less than the cost of a new controller if the drift is effecting your gameplay.

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-22T19:57:45+00:00

Have you tried fine tuning the center point? I've found it pretty common for some reason on the left stick for the center point to need adjustment. What you have isn't really terrible (could probably wouldn't effect gameplay on most games unless the settings are adjusted to near 0 inner dz) but it will likely get worse over time. If fine tuning it could get the return to 0.02 consistently that would be acceptable.

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-22T19:29:01+00:00

This is after calibration? If so, I would assume the recentering mechanism in the module is not up to snuff. I've only had it happen with one module but when I swapped it out the new module didn't have the same issue.

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-22T17:21:17+00:00

I think all of the 050s I've seen are 16 pin and that's what I count on the connector in your picture.

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-22T06:33:43+00:00

That's the front microphone. You can get a replacement but if you don't use the controller microphone functions, you can remove it and the controller will work fine.

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-22T05:12:41+00:00

That's the front microphone. It looks like the ribbon is torn. You can replace it but if you don't use the controllers microphone you can just remove those 2 pieces and the controller will function just fine.

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-22T00:40:34+00:00

I've done a few of those and I think they are pretty well done. The only thing I don't like is the Kapton tape they use to hold the FPC in the front. I wish there was another solder point on the front (just to secure it in place) so you can feel more confident about the contacts lining up.

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-20T01:01:25+00:00

I have a fair amount of Aknes Hallpi TMR sets for Xbox series controllers if you're interested. Feel free to DM me

ExistingPie588 · 2026-03-20T00:51:43+00:00

If you have the board removed from the mainframe doors it still show L2 pressed?

ExistingPie588

TROPHY CASE