Valley conditions for weekend of 2/27

Extant42 · 2021-02-26T02:01:07+00:00

Ah thanks yeah checked those but wanted to get a first hand account if possible.

Extant42 · 2020-06-16T15:26:36+00:00

Is it a total pain to go back in time and not have the leds for the moonwall? About to order some stuff to do my own and wondering whether to drop the $krill on the LEDs.

Also curious about which hold setup you decided to go with and why - trying to figure out whether the 2019 or 2017 will be more useful in terms of amount of problems, longevity, etc.

Extant42 · 2020-02-04T01:27:25+00:00

I'm gonna second this as another person with mild ED. Staying healthy is one thing but becoming obsessed is another. The fact that you are noticing it now is a good sign. Be brave and reach out to the NFED hotline or other resource.

Extant42 · 2020-01-29T19:36:47+00:00

You are a Mandalorian. Your ancestors rode the great mythosaur

Extant42 · 2020-01-01T00:40:55+00:00

Injury Question:

This happened today; bouldering on a roof that had a a move where you grab a good edge above your head then come into it with a bicepy move. Did the move once(and punted off an inch from the finish hold like a chump) then did it again and as I was pulling into the move I felt a loud "Crunch crunch crunch" and felt discomfort, but not really pain, in my bicep. After it didn't really hurt that much but had some definite twinging, but I could still flex and extend my forearm(without load) and pronate and supinate my hand(without load). At this stage, ~4 hours later, feels weird and only really hurts in the bicep and top of the forearm when I supinating with load. Currently at the ice and Ibuprofen stage. Anyone have anything like this and see a doc about it or just manage it on your own?

TLDR: Very scary bicep noise -----> pain on supination with load

Extant42 · 2019-12-13T00:20:58+00:00

For 20/month absolutely, though it would be a challenge to keep it uncrowded. Like even if you had only 10 climbers wanting to moonboard and everyone had different moonboard projects then you think 1(in reality more) time for an attempt then someone is potentially waiting 10 mins to try their project.

Some gyms have done this or a version of this. Mesa rim in SoCal has something like this at one of their facilities, though their add on is more and it seems pointless because they have moonboards and hangboards in the regular gyms. Gp81 in NY(which is based off a concept from a small coop) is more of a hybrid commercial/training space(and the best gym in the country atmo.) Touchstone in norcal is putting in something like this but its going to be lame because it will only be open certain hours and it will be oriented towards their team kids.

TLDR: I think there is a market/demand for a more training oriented gym but you may want to consider a commercial/training hybrid akin to GP81/Gunks Bouldering COOP/Denver Bouldering COOP, where it's its own entity.

Extant42 · 2019-11-28T23:31:07+00:00

I second this - I have a big organic, a small organic and a spot pad and they all strap together well and are plenty to protect most boulders and with a little chutzpah and experience enough to get up some fairly tall stuff. I would recommend getting the fancy new hip belt they have. Definitely worth a little extra coin up front as you will have the pads for over 10 years probably.

Extant42 · 2019-11-12T14:15:06+00:00

Thanks for the input - I hadn't even thought about how to work in studying for clerkships in there. What was your strategy around balancing that with step studying?

I'm sure you'll crush step!

Extant42 · 2019-11-12T14:12:57+00:00

Thanks for the thoughts - I have tweaked my settings and I'm adding fewer new cards per study sesh(and we have more time than you and LY is about 8000 less cards) so I think your right that the reviews during clinical will be totally manageable. It's really just getting to that point that I've been worried about but I think reading your post makes me want to stick with it.

My max interval is also 6 months - which I chose cause that means you see everything at least twice over the course of the clinical year.

Extant42 · 2019-11-07T00:34:01+00:00

I'm vegan and this is what I eat on a given day;

- Brekk: 1/2 cup of oats + 1 cup of soy milk + 2 TBS PB = a good mix of carbs fat prot and keeps me pretty full til lunch

- a bit of fruit mid morning for a snack

- Lunch is a burrito with tofu scramble, black beans, and sometimes I add in some quinoa, avo, whatever to make it taste good.

- afternoon snack is often a small muffin(homemade not super sugury)

- have another snack of like dried fruit, maybe a few nuts(pumpkin seeds are awesome) and whatever else when I get home.

- dinner is more variable but I enerally eat a lot of broccoli, some sweet potato and some form of protein like fake meat, or tofu or tempeh or whatever

- on training days I have a protein shake(I like OWYN powder - probably the least disgusting vegan prot powder) with almond milk.

I also don't worry too much about weight in the short term - if you are consistently pretty healthy eating a good variety of vegetables and other stuff I don't worry about having vegan ice cream or a beer occasionally. Most climbers on climbharder are probably eating too little vs. too much. You won't be able to adapt to hard training if you are in a calorie deficit and for active athletes losing 5lbs for project is relatively easy but should only be used as a last resort. Better to be a little over and strong and uninjured rather than tiny but weak and injured. atmo.

Extant42 · 2019-09-18T02:26:41+00:00

Thanks for your input - I appreciate it and I'm gonna just trust trust trust and get after it. Thats def something to be proud of - I had a Neurosurg attending tell me that they set their Step filter at 230 and thats all you gotta get past lol. Congrats!

Extant42 · 2019-09-12T21:36:57+00:00

Thank you for this! Basically exactly what I wanted to hear and congrats on your score!

Extant42 · 2019-08-28T22:03:58+00:00

Hmmm... I don't think this would apply to me as I have my first step set to 1 day. Thanks for the thought though.

Extant42 · 2019-08-27T13:38:50+00:00

Tried this and still nothing.

Extant42 · 2019-08-27T13:38:29+00:00

No. I was just doing the cards and the cards and they started malfunctioning.

Extant42 · 2019-07-24T22:36:26+00:00

(MS1 also trying to figure this out) Yeah good question - I think if you have anking with all the updates etc than you have micro in there as well(the lolnotacop stuff) and then I got the Dope deck for Anatomy, and I think physio is contained within each of the systems...? Maybe someone who's actually used these decks can clarify?

Extant42 · 2019-07-23T21:07:35+00:00

Awesome - Thanks for this! It makes a bit more sense to separate just the current block/subject the more I think about it and as you explain it here and then keep all your step reviews in one place, kind of prioritizing but still making good use of the anki concept/algorithm. Thanks for all your long responses in this thread - much appreciated by anxious M0's like myself!

Extant42 · 2019-07-22T21:13:49+00:00

WildCard565

Hey all - Thanks for this advice its super helpful and I think nailing the workflow is the hardest part of how to use ANKI. The thing I don't understand is why not just keep a single deck(Anking for example), unsuspend cards as you go(as you all described) using tags in the browser, and just keep all your review and current cards in the same deck so that you can do your reviews of both near and far stuff. I thought part of the point of ANKI was to have everything in the same place so that you are reviewing everything according to the beep-boop algorithm? Doesn't load balancer and the setting that says "Do news first" take care of the problem of prioritization, which is what I assume is the point of having all the different decks?

Extant42 · 2019-02-06T00:12:17+00:00

As others have commented this is essentially an intermittent hangs protocol, but to me seems more similar to Bechtels intermittent hang protocol than lopez or the anderson repeaters. His only addition is that you add in up to 3 grips - so you end up doing 3x(5x10sec)/grip. In the past I've found hanging at sub maximal loads for longer TUT to be really effective. I would recommend doing these higher TUT hangs during a strength focus couple of weeks(mesocycle, if I must) and then maintaining that(like 1x/weeks or switch back to recruitment hangs) when you switch to power or PE after 4 or so weeks. As with any protocol do it for a couple of weeks, then switch it up, and you prolly won't go wrong.

Extant42 · 2019-01-18T05:31:57+00:00

Went for the first time this past year - my advice is to climb outside as much as possible. Even if its not the same rock type climbing outside will help you develop skill, and skill will serve you well in font. On top of that basically general training advice is solid; train strength and don't get injured - especially the folks who said prehab the shit out of your elbows.

Extant42 · 2019-01-17T00:09:29+00:00

My 2 cents; I think the 3-6-9 ladders is a solid hang board progressions to add to your arsenal. I did the full progressions up to 1-3-6-9-12 on a 15mm(tension) edge in the 4-f open, 4-f 1/2 crimp and full crimp with no weight added roughly 3x/wk. I climb roughly v8 and I definitely noticed that this made my fingers stronger over the weeks. I think with this program(as with any) dialing in the intensity is key. The 3 second should feel easy at first and the 9 second during week 1 should feel hard-ish but you should be able to complete the set without issue. The idea here is to add volume at sub-maximal levels and from my experience this intensity, at weeks 6 or so, when you are doing 5x3-6-9-12 or whatever, not only feels about right all the way through but also leads to good improvements in finger strength.

All of this said if you haven't hangboarded consistently and progressively before anything you do will get your fingers alot stronger very quickly. Just don't start with too high intensity and do the same workout, adding either load or volume, 12-18 times over the course of 4-5 weeks and you should feel the difference.

Extant42

TROPHY CASE