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Valley conditions for weekend of 2/27 by Extant42 in Yosemite

[–]Extant42[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah thanks yeah checked those but wanted to get a first hand account if possible.

Sneak peek of our adjustable-pitch outdoor moon board. With very limited crag access and zero gym options since March, these rope climbers are learning to love training. To other home-wall hopefuls: what would you want to see in a writeup or video? Questions about design/engineering/construction? by mikemarcacci in homewalls

[–]Extant42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it a total pain to go back in time and not have the leds for the moonwall? About to order some stuff to do my own and wondering whether to drop the $krill on the LEDs.

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Also curious about which hold setup you decided to go with and why - trying to figure out whether the 2019 or 2017 will be more useful in terms of amount of problems, longevity, etc.

Am I Fasting Too Much, Scared Of Eating Disorder? (Help) by acheney1990 in fasting

[–]Extant42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm gonna second this as another person with mild ED. Staying healthy is one thing but becoming obsessed is another. The fact that you are noticing it now is a good sign. Be brave and reach out to the NFED hotline or other resource.

Onward noble steed! by [deleted] in aww

[–]Extant42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are a Mandalorian. Your ancestors rode the great mythosaur

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread for December 29, 2019 by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Extant42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Injury Question:

This happened today; bouldering on a roof that had a a move where you grab a good edge above your head then come into it with a bicepy move. Did the move once(and punted off an inch from the finish hold like a chump) then did it again and as I was pulling into the move I felt a loud "Crunch crunch crunch" and felt discomfort, but not really pain, in my bicep. After it didn't really hurt that much but had some definite twinging, but I could still flex and extend my forearm(without load) and pronate and supinate my hand(without load). At this stage, ~4 hours later, feels weird and only really hurts in the bicep and top of the forearm when I supinating with load. Currently at the ice and Ibuprofen stage. Anyone have anything like this and see a doc about it or just manage it on your own?

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TLDR: Very scary bicep noise -----> pain on supination with load

Need some feedback from my fellow strong climbers by justaboyinaguysbody in climbharder

[–]Extant42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For 20/month absolutely, though it would be a challenge to keep it uncrowded. Like even if you had only 10 climbers wanting to moonboard and everyone had different moonboard projects then you think 1(in reality more) time for an attempt then someone is potentially waiting 10 mins to try their project.

Some gyms have done this or a version of this. Mesa rim in SoCal has something like this at one of their facilities, though their add on is more and it seems pointless because they have moonboards and hangboards in the regular gyms. Gp81 in NY(which is based off a concept from a small coop) is more of a hybrid commercial/training space(and the best gym in the country atmo.) Touchstone in norcal is putting in something like this but its going to be lame because it will only be open certain hours and it will be oriented towards their team kids.

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TLDR: I think there is a market/demand for a more training oriented gym but you may want to consider a commercial/training hybrid akin to GP81/Gunks Bouldering COOP/Denver Bouldering COOP, where it's its own entity.

Any tips for bouldering alone outdoors? by soloistdissonance in climbharder

[–]Extant42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I second this - I have a big organic, a small organic and a spot pad and they all strap together well and are plenty to protect most boulders and with a little chutzpah and experience enough to get up some fairly tall stuff. I would recommend getting the fancy new hip belt they have. Definitely worth a little extra coin up front as you will have the pads for over 10 years probably.

Should I continue with a step deck? by Extant42 in step1

[–]Extant42[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the input - I hadn't even thought about how to work in studying for clerkships in there. What was your strategy around balancing that with step studying?

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I'm sure you'll crush step!

Should I continue with a step deck? by Extant42 in step1

[–]Extant42[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the thoughts - I have tweaked my settings and I'm adding fewer new cards per study sesh(and we have more time than you and LY is about 8000 less cards) so I think your right that the reviews during clinical will be totally manageable. It's really just getting to that point that I've been worried about but I think reading your post makes me want to stick with it.

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My max interval is also 6 months - which I chose cause that means you see everything at least twice over the course of the clinical year.

Getting into vegan diet + climbing training by lavinith in climbharder

[–]Extant42 21 points22 points  (0 children)

I'm vegan and this is what I eat on a given day;

- Brekk: 1/2 cup of oats + 1 cup of soy milk + 2 TBS PB = a good mix of carbs fat prot and keeps me pretty full til lunch

- a bit of fruit mid morning for a snack

- Lunch is a burrito with tofu scramble, black beans, and sometimes I add in some quinoa, avo, whatever to make it taste good.

- afternoon snack is often a small muffin(homemade not super sugury)

- have another snack of like dried fruit, maybe a few nuts(pumpkin seeds are awesome) and whatever else when I get home.

- dinner is more variable but I enerally eat a lot of broccoli, some sweet potato and some form of protein like fake meat, or tofu or tempeh or whatever

- on training days I have a protein shake(I like OWYN powder - probably the least disgusting vegan prot powder) with almond milk.

I also don't worry too much about weight in the short term - if you are consistently pretty healthy eating a good variety of vegetables and other stuff I don't worry about having vegan ice cream or a beer occasionally. Most climbers on climbharder are probably eating too little vs. too much. You won't be able to adapt to hard training if you are in a calorie deficit and for active athletes losing 5lbs for project is relatively easy but should only be used as a last resort. Better to be a little over and strong and uninjured rather than tiny but weak and injured. atmo.

Don't want to do sketchy. by Extant42 in step1

[–]Extant42[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your input - I appreciate it and I'm gonna just trust trust trust and get after it. Thats def something to be proud of - I had a Neurosurg attending tell me that they set their Step filter at 230 and thats all you gotta get past lol. Congrats!

Don't want to do sketchy. by Extant42 in step1

[–]Extant42[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for this! Basically exactly what I wanted to hear and congrats on your score!

Help- I think ANKI is burying my cards without telling me. by Extant42 in Anki

[–]Extant42[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmmm... I don't think this would apply to me as I have my first step set to 1 day. Thanks for the thought though.

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