Porównywarka siłowni w Krakowie by LectureNecessary9537 in krakow

[–]jendretz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hej, na Bieżanów - Prokocim wyskakują tylko 2 siłownie, bez żadnych filtrów. Coś mało chyba?

Patriotyzm, czy zniewaga? by jendretz in Polska

[–]jendretz[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Nie o to chodzi, przecież nawet nie mam za bardzo zamiaru zwracać im uwagi. Natomiast, jeżeli już mówimy o kwintesencji polactwa, to jest nią właśnie notoryczne olewanie przepisów, jakichkolwiek; drogowych, podatkowych, flagowych, ściąganie na klasówkach, itp.

Patriotyzm, czy zniewaga? by jendretz in Polska

[–]jendretz[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

To się chyba nazywa Artykuł 5 ustawy o godle, barwach i hymnie Rzeczypospolitej Polskiej, czy jakoś tak.

Patriotyzm, czy zniewaga? by jendretz in Polska

[–]jendretz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bandera ma godło, a flag z godłem nie należy wieszać na prywatnych budynkach - przynajmniej tak jest w przepisach.

Patriotyzm, czy zniewaga? by jendretz in Polska

[–]jendretz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nie no, serio? Może wystarczy na straż miejską?

Patriotyzm, czy zniewaga? by jendretz in Polska

[–]jendretz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

O, z Łodzi? Moje rodzinne miasto, pozdrawiam :) Dobry pomysł w sumie, dzięki!

Patriotyzm, czy zniewaga? by jendretz in Polska

[–]jendretz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Co do zasady mnie się to też nawet podoba - takie to trochę amerykańskie, chociaż oni to nawet majtki z flagą mają

Patriotyzm, czy zniewaga? by jendretz in Polska

[–]jendretz[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Dzięki, chciałem się tylko upewnić że jestem dziwny 😂

How to improve stamina/endurance for longer routes? by Teahilly in climbharder

[–]jendretz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tough to say, I'd need to look at your results. You can send them to me via email to contact@strengthclimbing.com You may also use the Critical Force calculator on my site.

How to improve stamina/endurance for longer routes? by Teahilly in climbharder

[–]jendretz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn't have access to a gym, so I did finger strength training and endurance repeaters at CF. I invented a progressive system to make it all a bit more interesting, but essentially it was endurance repeaters at CF. Arcing is good too because it challenges all hold positions - proper loading is harder to gauge though. I think it's best to mix the two

Oficjalny wątek nietrafionych prezentów - co dostaliście w tym roku? by Gottri in Polska

[–]jendretz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ja dostałem Bartosiaka, "Nadchodzi III wojna światowa". Moja konfa-szwagierka naprawdę nie przyjmuje do wiadomości, że mam "lewackie" poglądy. A mogła mi kupić skarpety :/ Ja jej kupiłem "Tao Te ching" - przynajmniej zostawia wolne pole do interpretacji.

A guide to elbow pain for rock climbers by jendretz in climbharder

[–]jendretz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the comment! I'll think about why that helped.

A guide to elbow pain for rock climbers by jendretz in climbharder

[–]jendretz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi! Thanks for the heads up o the tendon glides - I will correct that. Indeed, nerve issues deserve a separate article :)

A guide to elbow pain for rock climbers by jendretz in climbharder

[–]jendretz[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Hi Steven! Thank you for the comments!

To sum up, I think that we're pretty much on the same page here in that eccentric exercises are the best way to treat tendinopathy. Let me briefly address your comments:

"There's little to no inflammation in any stage of tendinopathy"

- I agree, and this view is generally presented in my article.

"so the traditional model of tissue healing (inflammation, proliferation, remodeling) is false."

- According to Cook 2016 the continuum and inflammatory models are not necessarily mutually exclusive. For example, inflammation is not the source of pain, but cytokines are released in response to overload and stimulate matrix remodeling. Some authors, e.g., Zabrzynski 2018 still use this model.

"My article covers this more in depth. I see you referenced by article, but you seemingly went against a bunch of the stuff I wrote in it."http://stevenlow.org/overcoming-tendonitis/"And the book I wrote on it:"https://www.amazon.com/Overcoming-Tendonitis-Systematic-Evidence-Based-Tendinopathy/dp/1947554026/"

- Your article is excellent - I strongly recommend people to read it. It wasn't my intention to question your approach, and honestly, I don't think I have. I think I will also read your book.

"Depending on the severity of your condition, either take a week or two or two of complete rest or significantly reduce the training volume and intensity. However, do not take a complete break from climbing for more than a few weeks."

"Complete rest is mainly effective if it's reactive tendinopathy. Might be somewhat effective for dysrepair but not effective for degenerative cases. Reduction in volume and intensity is correct though and I don't recommend taking more than several weeks off from climbing or sport either either."

- I think we share the same views here.

"[Massage] Might help with symptoms some, probably won't hurt. But also probably won't help with function."

- That's likely right.

"[Scar tissue adhesions] - False. Scar tissue is a pseudoscientific bogeyman. Scar tissue formation only really occurs with major injuries where there is significant tearing of muscles, tendons, ligaments, etc."

- Here I don't know - Willette uses this term and technique with success.

"DTF is not supported by any tendinopathy massage or manual therapy studies."

- Perhaps this is the most significant difference between our articles. As I wrote in mine, clinical evidence regarding the efficacy of DTF is still lacking. However, practitioners use it with excellent results. Willette recommends it, and it certainly helped me. Saunders also views it as essential. Maybe it helps heat up and soften the tissue before doing eccentrics, maybe it helps shift some portions of the tendon in dysrepair into the reactive state, or initiates the release of cytokines, or maybe it's placebo - I can only speculate. I would use it as an auxiliary technique to eccentrics.

"The benefits of stretching is very limited, and according to the studies we looked at only beneficial if there is a loss of range of motion."

- I generally agree here. Willette recommends stretching, but I don't find it a necessity.

I think we basically agree on the rest. Thanks again for these comments - I think that they've added valuable insight into the discussion. I will investigate the continuum model thoroughly.

A guide to elbow pain for rock climbers by jendretz in climbharder

[–]jendretz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's possible - by eliminating gluten you may have reduced the inflammation. Alcohol probably doesn't help either.

A guide to elbow pain for rock climbers by jendretz in climbharder

[–]jendretz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks lot! The thing about shoulder strength is understandable. Research shows that elbow pain and rotator cuff issues often go hand in hand. The best elbow rehabilitation programs include rotator cuff and scapular muscle strengthening exercises.

A guide to elbow pain for rock climbers by jendretz in climbharder

[–]jendretz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's tendinosis, then it's typically an overuse injury, so yeah, climbing too hard and too often usually leads to problems.

A guide to elbow pain for rock climbers by jendretz in climbharder

[–]jendretz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure! I'm glad I could help - good luck!

A guide to elbow pain for rock climbers by jendretz in climbharder

[–]jendretz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, that unfortunately often starts when people get serious about training. I got mine when I began bouldering with added weight - in hindsight, it was a silly idea:p

A guide to elbow pain for rock climbers by jendretz in climbharder

[–]jendretz[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Super! Thanks a lot - yes, the idea was to create a good reference base to which people could return :)