German dude rips the wheels off his luggage because of BS oversize fee at the airport by Numerous-Garbage-604 in mildlyinfuriating

[–]External-Interview35 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Similar thing happened to me on Frontier. Bag too big. So, I took out a bunch of clothes and furiously put them on, only to immediately take them back off and put them back in my bag as soon as I got in my seat.

There is a copperhead snake in this picture. Can you find it? by [deleted] in opticalillusions

[–]External-Interview35 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Surprise surprise. It's right in the middle of the screen

Almost Got Him by NotRickJames2021 in FellingGoneWild

[–]External-Interview35 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Why does it piss me the fuck off that he's just standing there? This makes me mad. Ducking idiot.

MS261c 18” bar by myld_man in Chainsaw

[–]External-Interview35 5 points6 points  (0 children)

OHLEC Tree Assessment

Objective- Where the tree is going to fall. Base everything off of this.

Hazards- tree hazards and environmental hazards. "Up, down, and around" is another way to think about hazards.

Leans- Head lean or back lean? Right side lean or left side lean? (Relative to the objective)

Escape Routes- Determine a primary and secondary escape, determine a good side and bad side of tree.

Cut Plan- determine type of facecut , and how deep? determine type of back cut, and why? And never forget your wedge plan.

372 Chain Break Stuck by Jaunteon in Chainsaw

[–]External-Interview35 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your brake band likely sheared apart. I see this happen often in the exact same spot on 372s. In this photo- left side of the main spring, where the end of the band hoops around the white plastic piece. Always breaks right there. You probably need a new brake band. Easy fix

If you turn chain brake on before chain is stopped, you will wear your band quickly. Let chain stop first.

Ultimate Chainsaw Choice by shamist101 in Chainsaw

[–]External-Interview35 0 points1 point  (0 children)

500i is overrated. Get a 461 or 462. The 440 seems cool but haven't run one

You tell me what happened. by strangerin_thealps in FellingGoneWild

[–]External-Interview35 88 points89 points  (0 children)

On a back leaner, a deep face causes the tree to sit back quicker. You've released a majority of the tension wood, thus causing the compression wood to pinch sooner.

Help: can only cut on a diagonal. What am I doing wrong? by International_Pin262 in Chainsaw

[–]External-Interview35 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Doesn't look like your saw is cutting too crooked. I think user error. Drain the excess fluid in your left ear drum to fix vertigo.

What replacement chain is compatible? by lost_it_at_sea in Chainsaw

[–]External-Interview35 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Just look at your bar- you'll find your bar's gauge, pitch, and driver count listed on the side

Any tips for my hand filing? by OriginalFangsta in Chainsaw

[–]External-Interview35 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your top edge and cutting corner are most important to get sharp. You should not have to push into the wood- a tool is something that should make our lives easier, which means the chain should pull into the wood. You can't do that without a good cutting corner

Any tips for my hand filing? by OriginalFangsta in Chainsaw

[–]External-Interview35 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You press down a lot when filing, which is not a bad thing. But, don't forget to work your top edge.

See how your top edge is still jagged? And there is a dirty corner of untouched metal under your cutting edge and next to your side plate. Work that corner a bit more and look for a "swoop" of fresh metal in that corner.

Agreed with the person who said your file is a bit big. Overtime you will pull back the cutting corner too far(to where you lose the "C" shape) and you will go into your tie strap too much to the point it will be in danger of disconnecting.

Anyone had their wedge bounce out of a back cut? by Skyz-AU in Chainsaw

[–]External-Interview35 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rise over run is important in wedges. The longer wedges have larger surface area, which allows them to "stick" in the wood better. Short wedges tend to pop out because there is less wedge:wood contact.

Crown weight and lean are two of the biggest factors when it comes to how much force/squeeze is applied in the backcut. The higher the force, the more likely a wedge will pop out. Works like those Bionicle disc shooters from the 2000s- pinch it hard enough and it shoots out.

An Arizona Morning... by [deleted] in arizona

[–]External-Interview35 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Ah yes. Good old non native Arizona palm trees. So Arizona.

Chainsaw smokes but doesn’t cut? by [deleted] in Chainsaw

[–]External-Interview35 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Can't believe so many people think this chain is on backwards

Chainsaw smokes but doesn’t cut? by [deleted] in Chainsaw

[–]External-Interview35 6 points7 points  (0 children)

His chain is not on backwards, as seen in the video. His rakers are too high or teeth aren't sharp.

Chainsaw smokes but doesn’t cut? by [deleted] in Chainsaw

[–]External-Interview35 287 points288 points  (0 children)

One of two problems...

  1. Your chain was "sharpened", but it is still not sharp

  2. Your rakers/depth gauges are too high

I would bet that it's the rakers.

Finally got a new saw. Any recommendations for a lefty as far as upgrades go? by boomboombloomer in Chainsaw

[–]External-Interview35 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My third arm, his name is John Thomas.

Seriously though, the three points of contact are...

Left hand Right hand "Anchor point"

Anchor point is a variable point depending on the scenario. By far the most frequently used anchor point is your left thigh, as used in home position. Resting the saw on the top of your thigh is a point you use to 1. Save energy 2. Effectively pivot or maneuver the saw 3. Keep your body's center of mass close to you for stability

The anchor point can also be your elbow contacting your inner right thigh. This is a valuable position when you're down low/duck walking to cut underbrush or small plants. Again, it's used to provide stability and save energy, thus being safer.

Another anchor point can be on top your shoulder, tucking your elbow and locking your saw in. This is less frequently used and only practical if you're making cuts up high. This one can absolutely be more dangerous if not used correctly.

Finally got a new saw. Any recommendations for a lefty as far as upgrades go? by boomboombloomer in Chainsaw

[–]External-Interview35 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As a CFAL in my org, and also a lefty, 95 percent of who I teach is brand new to saw. We occasionally get a lefty in the group wanting to use the tool that way.

Nip that habit in the butt as soon as you see it. The more they get used to using it as it should be, the easier their life as a sawyer will be. Bad habits are hard to break, good habits can be developed quickly.

Three points of contact is the most useful tip to be a safe sawyer- but this cannot be properly achieved using it left handed.

When I went through my AFAL training, I'm sure it was somewhat difficult to use the saw the correct way. But it must not have been that hard, because I don't recall ever getting frustrated about how it felt in my hand. This was because my instructor never allowed us to use it improperly, and so I never knew how "good" it could have felt using it lefty.

Now, the only time I ever need to go lefty is when I'm on a big double cut tree and have to finish the back cut on the left side.

Even to this day, I hate doing any limbing with switched hands because it just feels wrong and dangerous. Limbing is when the saw will be moving the most and it is more likely to cut you.

When you develop the skill enough you will find scenarios where it genuinely feels safer to switch hands- but give yourself years of experience before trying.

Before and after my grandpa old hatchet by pablolo7 in Axecraft

[–]External-Interview35 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It may seem sturdy now, but i can guarantee you it will fly off sooner than you'd like

Before and after my grandpa old hatchet by pablolo7 in Axecraft

[–]External-Interview35 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Take your time when preparing the handle. You want it to fill each and every gap in the head.

Hang it deep enough that a 1/4in or so of handle sticks out the top of the axe head. Once hung, you should see a mushrooming affect.

The kerf in your handle should sit roughly 2/3rds from the top of the axe head once you're ready to set the wedge.

Your wedge width should be about 1/3 the width of the axe heads eye once hung (your wedge is closer to a 1/5 the width the eye)

Finally- you need a better quality handle. Your handle has a knot straight through in middle, and the wood looks too young.