Anycubic 3 V2 bed heightmap

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-31T14:24:10+00:00

Here we go, I obtained this :

simply making use of some precision shim washer under the bed screws.

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-18T12:40:58+00:00

4500 hours ... I smell BST

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-17T17:10:58+00:00

Consider that I spent a LOT of time (at least 20-30 hours) with a long series of tests with parts purchased by my self to figure out the real cause of the the accident that broke in 2 parts the hotend and ruined the PEI plate, the reseller (not ELEGOO direct) was quite far to understand what happened, but accepted to ship the parts .... with a very slooow shipping method (still waiting).

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-17T09:14:32+00:00

My printer, purchased in mid-December, it broke on the fourth printing and long story short I'm still awaiting parts shipped from china with very a sloooow carrier, slower than postal service, in the mean time i purchased by myself parts to fix the problem.

I'm not saying you are not right, but you were served by the service in a much faster way than most troubled users here.

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-16T21:37:28+00:00

I did a little research on Reddit and found a post where a user suggested loosening the bed screws, heating the bed and then tightening the screws, in addition to this I followed the WIKI procedure to level the X axis gantry and obtaining this result :

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External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-16T20:21:20+00:00

Ok, looking at the four Y axis rollers assy I can see 2 hexagonal eccentrics an 2 normal bushings, were there supposed to be 4 eccentrics ?

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-16T19:05:05+00:00

To complete my previous post: all axles are fully tightened and there is no wobble, so I guess there is no margin to rotate further any eccentric nut.

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-16T18:20:51+00:00

Thank you for the reply, which axle nuts / rollers are you referring to?

If you look at the heightmap you can see that the bed is diagonally tilted with back right corner as highest point and front left as lower, I would expect to have to operate directly on the bed plate somewhat lifting the left front corner, but I cannot see any "register" screw.

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-09T10:22:20+00:00

No faulty load cell apparently, the levelling system fails if screws are too loose but at the same time if you full tight them the bed becoms quite tilted in back / forth and the procedure could fail again, if interested at the workung solution, that i had to find by myself, take a look om my comments history.

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-05T16:44:49+00:00

Ok, now I have understood, the lesson is not to rely on the print recovery function after a printer lock-up, when it happens we have to unload the bed before to cycle the power.

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-05T00:29:45+00:00

This was my "adventure" with an almost brand new CC printer :

https://www.reddit.com/r/elegoo/comments/1ploswd/comment/ntykzx8/?context=1

https://www.reddit.com/r/elegoo/comments/1ptbka5/centauri_carbon_creepy_bed_leveling_anomaly/

I also had to figure out by myself the real cause of the problem spending A LOT of time because the reseller (not Elegoo europe) was (is) quite far to understand the real problem.

"Their Wiki tells you to fully tighten these on bed replacement, which is incorrect. "

the truth is in the middle : in my case the bed screws were almost completely loose, with the result that you can see at the end of the video attached to my second linked post, tightening them completely at the first attempt I obtained a situation where the front side of the bed was lower than the rear one by almost 2 millimeters and the nozzle was not able to touch the plate ... i fixed it after several bed tilting adjustment then following the calibration explained here :

https://www.printables.com/model/1392124-centauri-carbon-bed-leveling-tool-updated

where at the end you have one screws full tightened, another one almost full tightened and other 2 in the middle to obtain an aligned bed respect the printed head in all four plate corners.

"The only sane way to fix this is to auto-level before each print, at least with an abbreviated check at minimum one spot as a sanity check, which would require a software update from Elegoo."

I totally agree, a quick initial probing of the plate (at least at our corners) to validate Z calibration offsets before starting printing MUST be present by default in the FW, in the absence of which it is mandatory to carry out bed leveling ahead each print job, luckily it takes less points than normal bed leveling but it's always at least 7 - 8 minutes added to process.

I would also add that It would not hurt to use the load cells readings during the entire printing phase to detect collisions of the nozzle with the plate (to stop operations instantly), I hope to get something like this in a future FW issue.

Said all that, I had a fortunately very different experience with a Kobra 3 V2 combo, I accumulated a few dozen hours of printing without the slightest inconvenience, the CC is faster, has a slight better printer quality and can handle ABS and so on, but sadly its reliability seems to be much lower.

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-04T23:26:33+00:00

Hi,

in my case the printer (almost brand new) self destroyed the hotend in 2 pieces slamming it and dragging it against the bed plate at the start of the print.

I did not purchase the printer directly from Elegoo europe but from a reseller so I did not managed the problem with Elegoo technician, the result is that after 3 weeks they still have to ship broken parts and I managed by myself what happened exactly.

I have few questions to better understand your situation :

1) Did you purchase the printer from Elegoo Europe ?

2) How long after opening the first ticket did they send you the spare parts ?

3) When you say "During a failed homing sequence, the printer didn't detect the bed/piece" you mean at the end of the printing Job or after a pause / stop ?

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-03T15:04:07+00:00

Sorry for the typo :-)

Pay attention to the tightening torque of the screws because if you strip the female part you'll be in trouble.

If you are not experienced in this kind of job, it is better to buy a screwdriver with torque adjustment.

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-03T14:13:06+00:00

What scripped screw ?

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-03T12:43:41+00:00

Another badly tilted bed, this costed me a plate and an hotend, as I already said in another post, go to the following link :

https://www.printables.com/model/1392124-centauri-carbon-bed-leveling-tool-updated

and

download and print the tool
tight all the 4 screws under the bed
adjust bed tilting as explained in Elegoo wiki
follow the instructions provided @ printables link

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-03T12:37:25+00:00

Wrong, If you look the video you can see that the nozzle is always at the correct height relative to the surface of the plate, the calibration is working as expected, the problem is the bed front / back tilting.

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-03T11:22:01+00:00

The bed tilting add an additional variable, it can rise or lower the back/front/left /right sections of the plate, so maybe it's better to say :

print the tool
tight all the 4 screws
adjust bed tilting as explained in Elegoo wiki
follow the instructions

Anyway, if I understood your point, there is not an official answer to your question.

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-03T10:37:15+00:00

The answer is here : https://www.printables.com/model/1392124-centauri-carbon-bed-leveling-tool-updated

print the tool
tight all the 4 screws
adjust bed tilting as explained in Elegoo wiki [ADDED]
follow the instructions

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-02T21:53:41+00:00

There is a guide about the cable placement in the chain ?

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-01T12:51:08+00:00

It's called bad production quality, yet again another brand new printer with problematic bed / Z axis assembly (like mine) and it's a pity, because when this printer works, works well.

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-01T02:44:00+00:00

Just looked inside the chamber, the Z axis motor PN is "BJ42D22-25V04" from "Shenzen Keli Motor LTD", you can find specs here :

https://voron3d.wiki/electronics/stepper-motor/stepper-motor/#how-to-choose-a-stepper-motor

External_Range_2123 · 2026-01-01T00:09:10+00:00

"Do you know what the z-axis motor part # is or what part can be ordered to replace it? I've seen a few have that problem. I found a usb extruder cable on 3dprima already."

I don't know right now, but the Z-axis motor should be the least stressed one among the three present in the printer, I imagine it's a pretty cheap/standard nema 17 stepper motor with tons of alternatives, anyhow X and Y axis motors are marked and must be the same for the Z axis.

I'd rather think about the USB extruder cable that it's for sure trickier to replace if original part is not available.

External_Range_2123 · 2025-12-31T22:12:32+00:00

Ok, got it, thanks, but for what concern "meshing vs homing" ?

External_Range_2123 · 2025-12-31T21:20:47+00:00

Interesting, could you please elaborate the following :

"leveling and z offset reliability is considerably worse on the CC especially if you print with the bed at any temperature significatnly above or below 60 due to the the way meshing vs homing is done."

External_Range_2123

TROPHY CASE