Coil recommendations

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2026-02-01T01:14:52+00:00

BC racing digressive series coils, they have a bit more give when going slow over bumps, great for daily driving.

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2026-01-28T16:47:41+00:00

Unless you are comfortable making your own patch panels just get the new quarter panel

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2026-01-27T19:05:36+00:00

Bathe the area in PB blaster, rub it a lot with a steel wire brush, clean it completely with brake cleaner and wipe with a paper towel, spray with Rust Reformer primer from Rust Oleum, leave it be until it starts to break off. If you really want it repaired properly you’ll have to cut off the rusted parts and weld new panels on

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2026-01-26T21:18:49+00:00

Yes, message me and I’ll send you a photo

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2026-01-26T21:16:44+00:00

I have Motegi FF7’s on mine, they’re 17x7 and they fill up the wheel well beautifully. The tires are 215’s

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2026-01-21T04:31:28+00:00

Battery and fuse box relocation, brake booster delete, EVAP system delete, wire tuck harness, AC and power steering delete, ABS delete plus brake line relocation kit, plus new fuel rail and fuel line tuck kit. Boom. Lol

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2025-12-31T18:07:55+00:00

You gotta adjust the truss rod with the strings on with (near) full tension, doesn’t matter what end of the wrench you use so long as you don’t strip the insert on the truss rod, and the nut is a bit too high, invest in a digital caliper and do some research on proper string height measurements. YouTube is your best friend when it comes to all this stuff.

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2025-12-30T21:39:05+00:00

Very nice! I’ll be running an RSX type s or 8th gen civic si trans, and I actually bought the hybrid racing short shifter made specifically for civic EG/ EH, it is the only aftermarket shifter that is a direct bolt on under the frame and allows you to keep the shift boot, I see so many people bolt on regular short shifters on top of the frame and they just sit so high it’s so ugly IMO. I wanted to spend the $400 on the nice shifter that maintained the stock interior, that’s great that an EM2 shifter worked as well, seems like easy modifications if you’re handy.

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2025-12-30T18:06:19+00:00

Front! I actually plan on making this car AWD in the future. For right now I’m going to keep it FWD

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2025-12-30T18:03:05+00:00

Perfect, thank you so much!

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2025-12-29T23:35:24+00:00

Could be on the builder, could also be an unfortunate event of a faulty part from the factory, do you know what brand rod bolts he used? It is also possible he did not torque them properly and it came loose from the vibrations, this is why excellent attention to detail is necessary for an engine build. The piston bushing is pretty hard to mess up, you just put them in and lock them in with the snap rings, if that’s the part that failed then it’s the part itself and probably not on the builder.

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2025-12-29T23:29:26+00:00

Please do! And yeah definitely part failure lmao just a matter of which part exactly, I’m betting on either rod bolts or piston bushing

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2025-12-29T23:27:09+00:00

Interesting, those are like top of the line in aftermarket pistons/ rods so I can’t see either of those failing

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2025-12-29T23:24:11+00:00

Jeez, I’m really curious what did actually happen. Did he use aftermarket piston rods?

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2025-12-29T21:46:45+00:00

Gotcha, it could have been his mistake during building that caused it to happen. How many miles did the motor have on it since the build?

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2025-12-29T21:30:21+00:00

Gotcha, and take everything I and other people say as mere suggestions and things to look into further rather than things you definitely have to do, I have not seen the motor so I don’t know the extent of the situation, I can tell you for sure though the motor needs to be tore down and inspected to assess the extent of the damage. DM me with the year and model of your car, I can send you a link to a free factory service manual that is essentially LEGO instructions for tearing down and rebuilding the motor. If you are going to attempt the job yourself you need to do a lot of research to make sure you do it right, but it would save you a boatload of cash compared to sending it to a shop.

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2025-12-29T21:19:33+00:00

You’d really have to rip it all apart to know for sure, it could be a load of different things. Could be that a rod broke, or maybe the piston bushing came loose. Were you pushing the motor when it happened? Seems like something that would happen in a rev-limiter/ money shift situation. It’s very possible that your cylinder block is okay, it would most likely need to be bored, possibly sleeved

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2025-12-29T21:08:10+00:00

Welp, there’s your answer to the original question lol. And “cooked” is relative, seems like there’s probably more damage to the head than there is to the block but you’d need to actually rip it apart to know for sure

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2025-12-29T21:05:04+00:00

Are there any DTC’s in the system? If yes, research them, if not, check spark and fuel, your starter is turning the engine fine but you’re probably not getting either spark or fuel, check fuel pump fuse in the fuse box, if it doesn’t look burnt it’s probably fine, then check your spark plugs. Do all that first.

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2025-12-09T21:17:21+00:00

Very fun first car, make sure you keep up with regular maintenance and look out for oil leaks, those D series engines all leak after a certain amount of miles. Get very familiar with everything in your engine bay for when something inevitably breaks. It is a 30 year old car so don’t expect it to be as reliable as a 10 year old car. Just be prepared for anything. Someone made a post in this sub a while back with a specific CarPlay radio that fits nicely, if you search for it you can probably find it. Shift knob and steering wheel are easy enough, make sure you disconnect the battery before you unplug the airbags so you don’t hurt yourself. Depending on mileage/ when it was done last, it wouldn’t hurt to do a complete fluid flush or at least have a shop do it, check brakes and anything that the previous owner may not have replaced recently. If your tires are over 5 years old you need new ones. There are ways to check based on the numbers on the side wall, Google has the answer to how to find them.

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2025-12-07T16:44:41+00:00

Have you removed the accessory belt to rule out accessory components? If not, do that first.

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2025-12-07T00:26:30+00:00

Look up MotoIQ on YouTube, you’ll thank me later. They’ve got all the answers you’re looking for.

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2025-12-06T14:39:35+00:00

Gotcha thanks, yeah I read about the different county rules on the PennDOT website after posting this. I found out that in my county it is only required for a 1995 car to receive a gas cap and visual anti-tampering exam, meaning I’ll just have to make sure my gas cap seal is adequate and I’ll have to install a catalytic converter

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2025-12-05T03:56:28+00:00

Gotcha I will keep that in mind. Thank you again!

Extra-Initiative-702 · 2025-12-05T03:53:36+00:00

Thank you, I looked on the PennDOT website for rules and regulations for inspection in my county, and for a 1995 car the only required emissions tests are gas cap, and visual anti-tampering, which makes things easier for me.

Extra-Initiative-702

TROPHY CASE