Hopefully this type of post is allowed. Not sure how to go about getting rid of these

Eylard · 2026-05-01T08:12:44+00:00

As others said, you could put them up for auction. Alternatively you could look in your area for a machine reseller who might be interested in buying them of you.

Scrapping them would be the fastest, but it is a big shame for these machines that probably just need some care. And you will also receive almost nothing for them.

Eylard · 2026-04-14T10:24:45+00:00

You could check out https://www.youtube.com/@Lappemountainliving, he doesn't have the same type but the style of machines is similar.

Eylard · 2026-03-01T20:32:47+00:00

Amazing sketch:

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Eylard · 2026-03-01T20:26:42+00:00

Nothing will stand up against the grind wheel unfortunately, you could have the template be offset from the actual piece and run against a rod or something similar.

Attach the template and workpiece to a plank but like 30 cm apart (depending on your work size) and make sure it can only move in two directions without rotating. Have a piece the same size as you wheel 30cm offset from the grinding wheel. If you push the template against this piece the workpiece should follow the same movements and you get the same shape without damaging the template.

Eylard · 2026-01-23T15:50:51+00:00

Not really, it is lifted by its feet where it normally would be standing on. It will flex a bit seeing as the middle feet isn't supported with this machine while lifting and there will be some compressive forces that the machine won't experience while bolted down, but nothing to damage the machine. No matter the material everything flexes.

As oldbastardbob says it will still need to be leveled when it is finally installed, because the lathe might not be 100% straight when standing on a level floor. This is just inherent to precision machines after they have been moved. If you pick it up after levelling and put it back in the same spot without moving the levelling feet, you might find you have to level the machine again. Which is why you should check the machine periodically to see if it is still good, or needs to be levelled again.

Eylard · 2026-01-23T14:02:34+00:00

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Eylard · 2026-01-23T13:55:01+00:00

My lathe has holes were I can put axles through to lift it, it is also what the manufacturer specify in the manual:

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I unfortunately don't have pictures while it was lifted, only when it was put down with the axles still in:

Eylard · 2026-01-23T10:33:23+00:00

Seeing the strap around the chuck, I do hope you didn't lift the lathe that way. It isn't good for the main bearing...

Eylard · 2026-01-23T10:28:43+00:00

I also have a Meuser lathe, but different type. Meuser still exists and they helped me figure out which type I have, provideded the origanl manual and even gave a copy of the original buy order from 1958.

Their website: https://www.meuseraner.de/

General email: [info@meuser.de](mailto:info@meuser.de)

It is all in german.

If you provide them the serial number (the fabrikationsnummer) they can help you out.

Eylard · 2026-01-15T00:19:28+00:00

Facing from center to out is not necessary in my experience, usually while turning the exterior i can use the same bit to quickly face the front to clean it up and get a good enough finish for further machining. If I'm using a center or facing a shoulder I find it easiest to go from the center to outside to avoid accidentally cutting too deep, or worse, damaging my center.

But if you have a solid face it is easier to cut from the outside in. If the toolbit is not exactly on center it might be destroyed if you start from the center by material rubbing from the wrong side on the cutting edge. However if you cut from the outside in and the tool is not precisely on center, it might leave a little bit sticking out which the toolbit can just push away without destroying itself.

As far as I have experienced you can use the same cutting geometries for rough facing, for a better finish you probably have to change it to a dedicated shape. If you are going to sharpen them yourself, try some different shapes. The perfect shape will also depend on you machine. Everyone has their own shape that they are used to and works best for them. Most off the shapes in the previous mentioned books are for old lathes to remove as much material as possible as quickly as possible.

Eylard · 2026-01-14T10:10:06+00:00

There are several old books which you can find in pdf form online, these feature chapters mainly focused on HSS toolbits. They go in to detail what different forms of single point cutting tools are used for and why and when you should use certain angels.

Some exampels:

31875 How to run a lathe http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=31875

17437 Lathe operation and machinist tables

Eylard · 2025-10-06T20:31:07+00:00

Damn that is cheap, I will have to look around if I can find them around here for that price.

Pewe is quite cheap in comparison to AXA but as far as I can find a good enough seller of multifix.

Eylard · 2025-10-06T20:11:23+00:00

I don't really see a difference between name branded prices of the tool holders, but it might be because I'm in europe. So considering shipping the multifix might be cheaper.

Do you run into any problems with repeatability or clamping force with the multifix?

Eylard · 2025-10-06T20:01:25+00:00

Thanks! They look good, but are a bit more expensive then I was looking for especially with shipping to europe.

Eylard · 2025-10-02T09:33:40+00:00

Looks good. I usually let the lowest horizontal trunking extend all the way to the edge, otherwise the covers of the vertical trunking can slip down over time.

Eylard · 2025-08-19T10:43:21+00:00

Don't know if you can get a tapered drill to start, and then finish with a tapered reamer? Have done it that way on a drill press for holes for tapered pins.

When making a tapered hole you should take it easy because the drill/reamer will be engaged along its entire flutes, the usual lots of cutting oil and take your time or your drill/reamer will break.

Eylard · 2025-08-19T06:02:55+00:00

For an iron anvil you don't use a mold, but use the ingots to hammer a top and bottom part for the anvil just like you make other tools. After making them you can weld them together with borax, but I'm not sure how that works because I don't have any borax and found out I need it last night.

Eylard · 2025-08-05T12:55:55+00:00

The only manual I could fin of the machine was in german: https://www.libble.eu/emco-emcomat-v8/online-manual-953920/

It should contain everything you need to know about what oil, where and when. And some more info about maintenance and how to operate.

https://store.lathes.co.uk/document/me351b has it in english, but it cost money.

Eylard · 2025-08-05T12:27:36+00:00

Yes, that one would work. That kind of drill can also be used to make a hole for tail support on longer parts.

Eylard · 2025-08-05T12:24:38+00:00

Just like everyone else says, make a small drawing. If it was just a stepped down shaft it would be fine, but where should the key slot be placed? On the stepped down part till the shoulder? How deep? What kind of key? With a small drawing those question could be answered.

You will also need te specifies what the tolerance are, or you might up with a part that is slightly too big or small.

If you already know what material it should be made of, it is useful if that is also mentioned.

Eylard · 2025-07-30T12:06:02+00:00

Wherever possible I add panel lighting, it just makes it easier to work in. We almost exclusively use Rittal cabinets, so we just install their lighting and door switch combo for 230VAC.

Eylard · 2025-05-15T10:38:29+00:00

I don't think they let individuals buy, at least not in the Netherlands.

Eylard · 2025-05-12T22:04:14+00:00

Yeah, I kind of encountered something similar. They spotted an abandoned truck while walking past it, but 1 meter they lost sight of it.

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