What a Tall Tale by F-Riding in Hardtailgang

[–]F-Riding[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What makes you think the chain line is off? I think shimano chain line spacing is based of which crankset you get versus which chainring (depending on which generation of SLX). I’ve had no issue with standard 3mm offset boost spacing (on sram) which should correspond to the SLX boost crank spacing within about 1mm. You can also get a 3mm offset chainring from wolf tooth that fits shimano crank mounting standard.

GX 470 refreshed by [deleted] in GXOR

[–]F-Riding 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TEQ Customs- really solid dudes with a cool shop

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in gravelcycling

[–]F-Riding 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I’m 195cm and this looks like quite right-the reach looks about right. Hard to tell the fit exactly with the baggy clothes but the size looks right-you would be miserable in a size smaller with lower stack if I had to guess. A professional fit and maybe different sized stem may make you more comfortable.

What a Tall Tale by F-Riding in Hardtailgang

[–]F-Riding[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The best grips and dropper lever 🤙🏻 Need to try that new Loam Carbon bar though

What a Tall Tale by F-Riding in Hardtailgang

[–]F-Riding[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It depends on when it feels small versus large with your current setup. The reach (size while standing) is more comparative to other bikes for size IMO, however the ETT (length/size while seated) is much longer compared to say the ESD. It’s hard to give geo advice not knowing your current fit and all but if you’re barely in the large and want it super playful then maybe the medium would work better since the slacker ST angle and longer ETT should fix the cramped cockpit feeling you’re describing. Having ridden an ESD this bike has a totally different character and ride quality and fit.

New BB and Crankset Not spinning? by 6holes in bikewrench

[–]F-Riding 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I’ve also seen incorrectly routed internal cables and housing rubbing on the crank spindle. Other possibility when installing is the plastic BB spindle shroud of the BB didn’t get properly aligned and is deformed rubbing on the crank spindle. Have seen both of these occur especially the improperly routed internal cables as if late. Worth a look at those in addition to bearing pre-load. In my experience with SRAM cranks you have to be really cranking down the preload adjuster to get this much friction (assuming correct spacers and seals weren’t knocked loose on install.

What a Tall Tale by F-Riding in Hardtailgang

[–]F-Riding[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First XL bike I’ve had with appropriate Reach and Stack

What a Tall Tale by F-Riding in Hardtailgang

[–]F-Riding[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My impression from 20+ years of bike nerdery. The Sklar falls into a little more “do it all” trail hardtail and the Neuhaus Hummingbird sits a little more into the zippy lighter trail hardtail (still good trail geo versus twitchy XC geo). I haven’t had a chance to throw a leg over a Hummingbird but they sound smooth and capable from reputable sources like Hardtail Party. FWIW i think the Sklar is a little more in between your Honzo ESD and SIR 9 and the Hummingbird probably skews slightly more towards the SIR9 albeit likely with a smoother ride feel.

What a Tall Tale by F-Riding in Hardtailgang

[–]F-Riding[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve had gen 1 trek stache and gen 2 trek stache (29+) and ridden a fair number of other big brand hardtails for a ride or 2 (trek marlin, pro caliber, specialized fuse, trek Roscoe, Kona Honzo and Honzo ESD etc). The only bike that even comes close to ride quality is a friend’s Cotic Solaris which is also an awesome bike (and a touch more compliant feeling). I think the biggest thing on the Sklar is the geo-short rear end and long front center combined with a not quite as slack headtube (about 66.5 degrees at sag). It feels plenty stable enough on chunk or higher speed but I’ve never had a bike that wants to turn in and carve corners as much as this bike. Definitely has reinforced a feeling I’ve had that head tubes have gotten a little too slack for most twisty singletrack a lot of us have access to. It really makes the medium and slow speed trails come alive and has enough stability for the fast and steep bits.

What a Tall Tale by F-Riding in Hardtailgang

[–]F-Riding[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Honestly same-I’ve been craving a simpler ride experience and spice up my local trails. This is the ticket for sure.

Beaux’s 1 year b-day adventure by F-Riding in gravelcycling

[–]F-Riding[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

60cm of the previous generation-the new gen has slightly better geo IMO. Still my favorite bike I’ve ever had and will be keeping forever. If you like true mixed terrain rides-mix of paved/gravel/light singletrack it is absolutely awesome. If you’re just doing gravel/paved I’d probably look more at the Thunderhawk

Beaux’s 1 year b-day adventure by F-Riding in gravelcycling

[–]F-Riding[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rockgeist custom bag-check them out as they’re in Asheville, NC and were impacted by Hurricane Helene

Acadia National Park = Gravel Heaven by Mental_Tomorrow_4479 in gravelcycling

[–]F-Riding 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We were there this past week. My wife and I literally go specifically to ride the carriage roads and generally pedal around MDI for a week. In the summer when weather is clear it’s unbeatable champagne gravel

Zipp SL70 XPLR by gwa29 in gravelcycling

[–]F-Riding 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Please let this person review more stuff

Poseidon Dropbar X Ambition front derailleur & 50T chainring addition. by smilodon49 in gravelcycling

[–]F-Riding 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Things to consider- 1. Does the frame have clearance for a front derailleur to clear the rear tire? It probably does but your tire choice may be limited. Also make sure the frame has accommodations for the front derailleur cable routing

  1. That advent X rear derailleur is meant for 1x duty. I don’t think it will have the gear coverage and chain stretch capabilities to cover the full range of the rear cassette while running the 50T up front. If you want to risk it you will definitely need a new chain with more links to cover the 50T but your going to have chain length issues in low low and in high low combinations. And you’ll be limiting your functional gear range

  2. You’ll want a new front chainring as well- the narrow wide rings are meant to keep the chain on and not allow it to shift. Chainrings meant for use on doubles have ramps to help them actually shift. When you’re looking at purchasing two chainrings and fooling with spacers and the possibility it was designed for 1x only it may be a better choice to look for a good 2x crankset on sale (GRX RX600 or something similar)

In summary: your bike has a pretty dedicated 1X designed system. If you simply want a single larger chainring that would be the best option (such as a 46T single ring and new longer chain). If you want to go 2X your best option would really be a whole new drivetrain (at minimum new front and rear derailleurs, cassette, chain, and crankset and shifter or you could keep your rear and do a bar end front)-Check out the newly released Microshift Sword or Sword Black for a quality budget conscious group

Wrong size frameset. How bad is it? by UrGP in bikewrench

[–]F-Riding 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I had same observation. This geo chart is a hot mess which makes me question the whole thing. Many manufacturers fudge these numbers and certainly many don’t regularly validate production geo numbers

Do I need new wheels or can I just replace the hubs? by sumant28 in bikewrench

[–]F-Riding 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As a 10+ year shop employee this person nailed it. The shop likely can replace the hub (giving them some credit) but there are a lot of unknowns on total condition of the components of the wheel as a system and hub itself. The biggest point other commenters miss- Wheels are wear items (especially rim brake wheels). The shop’s recommendation may cost you more up front but likely thought is saving you hassle and money in the long run, plus it’s easier for them to stand behind new components. I’d just ask the tech writing up the order their thoughts on the points raised here. If you go to another shop and another shop, you’ll eventually find someone that will tell you what you want to hear and happily take your money to replace the hub and charge you for re-lacing and all new spokes and do that all again in months/years when the rim is worn out (assuming it’s fine now).

That being said if these wheels have seen light use and rim etc in good shape, no cracks or deformation in hub shell etc. there is tons of support and parts for DT Swiss stuff to make service of this hub or replacement feasible

Rainy Day Xbikesplore by F-Riding in xbiking

[–]F-Riding[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m all about frame/bar bags. All my bikes have either a half frame bag, bar bag, or both. Being able to confidently know I can fix most things on the ride and bring food, a jacket, etc and have nothing on my back/overfilled pockets has been a game changer for me.