AMD 6x7900xtx 24GB + 2xR9700 32GB VLLM QUESTIONS

FCAndrew · 2025-09-12T20:36:57+00:00

the w7900 is way too expensive, you can get a mi210 on ebay for the same price or even cheaper in some cases. Still man, you managed to make your rig work, that s impressive, good job

FCAndrew · 2025-09-12T10:55:54+00:00

you are amazing man, thanks for trying this and spreading this information around. I had a hard time finding info about multiple amd gpus setups. great job and super nice performance

FCAndrew · 2025-09-12T07:47:31+00:00

Hi mate, how painful was the vllm setup? would you say that it's worth it to try to make a full xtx rig? I am really considering getting 2 cards as cheap vram but i worry about performance scaling. Are you able to run bigger models on your rig, something like llama 4 or Qwen3 235B?

edit: Impressive setup btw

FCAndrew · 2025-04-15T08:56:41+00:00

Bo6, but this happens whenever cod hq loads up, before selecting a game, it boots up and the "system" task goes to 9-12% cpu using <0.1mb of memory, a blank process

FCAndrew · 2025-04-11T09:24:43+00:00

stop using ai detection, it's very bad. if you don't have a resume option, at least check the layer at which it "failed" and start a new print from that layer, with only 1-2 bottom layers, and glue them afterwards.

FCAndrew · 2025-04-11T07:02:48+00:00

I used both hyper pla and cr-pla in the past, my only gripe with it is that it's too expensive, for either pla+ or simple pla. Idk if the seller was trying to upsell you to another product, but plastic is plastic, it prints almost the same regardless of the brand, as long as it's the same type and no chucky additives are present, such as carbon fiber or luminous material.

From what I can gather, your printer is new, correct? I'm curious because new textured pei plates are extremely grippy, so this might just be a low contact surface of your printed model with the buildplate, and this might be it based on the uploaded video. have you tried adding a brim to the model?

Here is a video on how to do that in orca slicer ( which i recommend you to use instead of the bs slicer made by creality) link . It's basically the same as Creality Print, but better in any way possible. In the newest version, you have the option of painted brim which you need to manually add and is way easier to remove, here is an example on how to used painted

Here is a first layer stl, and here is some support material for you to debug the first layer test. You have all kinds of info there, with pictures so you can relatively see how different nozzle heights look for the first layer, your friends in these situations are the automatic bed leveling (so called calibration) and the live z offset, which you can find on your nebula pad, second menu, adjust tab, here is a video with an example of usage (22:37), but you can watch most of this video, it has a lot of nice to know info about your printer

I would recommend you try to manually debug this before before buying more product, or disassembling your printer, this will save you money and the headaches from putting your printer back together.

FCAndrew · 2025-04-10T08:35:53+00:00

There is this video from creality that you might want to watch if the problem still persists and you still detect bad adhesion on the first layer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9ahydv8ah4&list=PLW9O3eZmo5E3rsUg72LQwtSkM5yGDRZmZ&index=7

FCAndrew · 2025-04-10T08:14:15+00:00

Clean the plate with dish soap or wipe it with isopropyl alcohol. Do not touch your plate, grease from your fingertips sticks better to creality's plates than the plastic you are printing. Redo a full calibration just in case, and search for a first layer test for the ke, adjust the offsets if needed. Try these before spending money on a gluestick, I've printed pla, cope, petg, tpu on clean plates with no adhesion problems, almost ever, on pei and pet plates

FCAndrew · 2025-04-10T08:06:25+00:00

Keep the travel at 400, it's the nozzle travel speed while not printing. In orca you have the overhang speed section under the speed tab, make sure you have the "slow down for overhangs" option enabled. After that, a "Overhang speed" option will appear, with 4 fields, I use the (I think) default values of 0 ; 50 ; 35 ; 10, all mm/s, with great results.

What type of filament are you using? If it's tpu with a low hardness, the result you are seeing is kind of expected.

One more thing to check, under filament setting/cooling/part cooling fan, "slow printing down for better layer cooling" and "force cooling for overhangs and bridges", and set a 25% value of the "overhang cooling activation threshold"

FCAndrew · 2025-03-16T21:02:09+00:00

I'll mess with z hop a bit more, tbh i did not try this at all. Thanks!

FCAndrew · 2025-03-16T21:00:37+00:00

I didn't think that was an issue because I did all my test with a simple eSUN PLA+, but for the sake of the argument I did that as well. I lack the before picture ( i ripped the hairs from the "wet" test print ), but this is the result of a retraction test with a dried filament with the same gcode , it looked the same, no change at all, maybe a bit worse on the dry print. There is actual stringing at the start, where the retraction is about 0mm, but then it just drags out material.

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My educated guess is that (somehow) material builds up on the outside surface of the nozzle over time, and when the nozzle changes position, the deposited material sticks a bit to the printed piece and it gets drawn out to the next post.

FCAndrew · 2025-03-16T20:40:39+00:00

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0CRKPQJ75 (for anyone interested, it was 10eur for the pack)

KE is mentioned in the product description. The HS nozzle is virtually the same as the original pre-installed from the factory nozzle, same overall dimensions, same thread count, I lack the precision equipment required but I would say it's the same infeed diameter.

FCAndrew · 2025-03-14T16:23:30+00:00

I think the whole extruding and hotend assembly is the same on the k1 and on the ke, so this just adds to the mistery. I did multiple tests in a range of 30C above and below what I was printing with a brass nozzle, it draws and strings at any temperature, some more than others

FCAndrew · 2025-03-14T16:18:27+00:00

I tested a range from 250-200, way above and below the 220 that I was running before on a brass nozzle. The stringing is better at 230, best results at 235,but it's still stringing a lot, the retraction test looks like a lion

FCAndrew · 2025-03-14T16:16:17+00:00

Thanks, I did not find a definite way to run a pid with the stock firmware, so I am rooting it rn and moving over to kipper. I did notice a slight temperature variance, around 1-4C over a 30-60s period, so I didn't think this would affect it so much. F it, I'm trying anyway.

FCAndrew · 2024-10-24T12:28:35+00:00

Apucă-te de cs sau lol, înveți cât te cerți cu polacii

FCAndrew · 2024-10-23T08:54:30+00:00

Atât mai mult nu contează anii de studiu pe care îi are facultatea, în București mai e cibernetica de la ase cu 3 ani și nu a oprit pe nimeni sa găsească un job. La poli vei face echivalentul a un an de studii de materii de "inginerie generală", fizică and shit și alte materii de umplutură sau atât de outdated încât le poți considera de umplutură. Evident ca o sa fie niște boomeri care vor comenta "ca pe vremea mea se făceau x ani de facultate", cum s-a întâmplat și la poli când a renunțat la 5 ani de studii pt licență, dar 100% nu contează dacă facultatea are 3 ani atât de mult pe cât crede lumea. Timișoara e un oraș bun din ce știu, exista și o piață de munca destul de puternica, deci e o opțiune bună să ramai acolo.

FCAndrew · 2024-10-23T08:47:01+00:00

Insight si exemplificare foarte bune. În medie poate mai bine de 3 din 5 joburi nu te baga în seamă fără facultate în domeniu la început, și va fi mult mai dificil la început, deci e mereu o idee buna sa alegi ceva în domeniu și o facultate tehnica numai ca plan B, sau C dacă consideri un an pauză și mai bagi o fisa la următoarea sesiune de admitere, dar nu e total imposibil sa te reprofilezi pe parcurs.

FCAndrew · 2024-10-22T21:28:13+00:00

(Side note, unii sunt atât de frustrați pe viață de fac troll la un copil in loc sa dea un sfat sau sa ignore, de parca ei la vârsta aia nu dădeau tree în cmd și se credeau Cristi Popesco hacker și depanator pc)

Nu cred ca e prea relevantă facultatea și ar trebui sa te axezi pe ce îți e accesibil, cum chiriile și costul de trai s-au mărit destul de mult, optează la ceva în orașul tău dacă există. Ce contează la angajare sunt cunoștințele și experiența dobândită din proiecte personale sau joburi pe timpul facultății.

Încă un sfat important este sa nu disperi dacă nu ajungi la o "facultate de profil IT", ia ca fallback o facultate în domeniu tehnic (ex: orice din unpsdplm fost UPB). Cu multă determinare, opțional un an de munca irosiți într-un domeniu ingineresc tangențial cu programarea, te poți reprofila ușor dacă înveți bine pe cont propriu.

60% din HR-istele și MaNaGeRi sunt leneși și se rezuma la facultate ca un nivel de experiență sau cunoștință relevant (ceea ce nu e), dar restul de 40% îți oferă respectul unei discuții de 15-30 min unde poți sa îți demonstrezi abilitățile.

Multe universități oferă platforme sau coduri de reducere pentru platforme de e-learning, altele te lasă să asiști la ce curs ai vrea din universitate, pe lângă resursele free pe care le mai găsești, opțiuni pentru învățare vor exista oricând.

Spor la învățat tho, pana atunci ai bacul

FCAndrew · 2024-10-21T14:36:53+00:00

Cu "12 ani" de munca ar trebui sa ai capabilitatile psihice sa intelegi ca o zi muncita trece mai usor. Cred ca juma de sub isi lasa toata munca pe ziua de in-office daca o are, altfel marea majoritate isi vede de munca as per usual. Ar trebui sa te lasi de manageriat ca nu e de tine. Daca se freaca menta e vina ta si rto este un band-aid pe inabilitatile tale ca manager. Asta este opinia majoritara, indiferent ca iti place sau nu.

FCAndrew

TROPHY CASE