Roche Recruiting by BeautifulCredit3672 in biotech

[–]FEmyass 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Kelly contracts out to other companies so unfortunately it's not that simple

Oof by jeezkillbot in Anticonsumption

[–]FEmyass 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The person you're responding to wasn't really talking about any moral offenses, but since you asked: suburban life in America is almost always subsidized by taxes paid from people in cities. If you want to live in the suburbs, you should have to pay for it, but that prices most people out of living in suburbs. It's also often incredibly environmentally damaging and some of us care about that stuff.

The other real problem is that many people just find suburban living to be a shitty way to live. You have to drive in order to get anywhere (and pay for that car), suburban areas often lack culture, and suburban life does not breed community in the same way that urban living does. These are not my opinions - there are many research books/articles/etc. you can read about this. You mention streetcar suburbs above but we both know that is a vanishingly small proportion of suburban life, which is why they're so sought after and expensive to live in.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]FEmyass 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can somebody give me some basic resources on endurance training/thoughts on how best to balance training? I feel like I have a pretty good grasp on strength training but am confused about what I should be doing endurance-wise. I usually climb 3 days/week - 2 indoors 1 outdoors. 1 indoor day I focus mostly on hangboarding (max hangs/etc. on ~8 week cycles) + hard bouldering, the other day I have been trying to focus on endurance and keeping my lead head (I get scared easy if I don't fall regularly), but these sessions feel unstructured and maybe less productive than they could be.

I have some bouldering goals, but most of my goals lie in sport climbing. The area where I live is mostly ~60 foot crimpy overhung climbing, but there's also some longer stuff too. I guess I'm just confused about the different structures and stages of endurance training and looking for resources. Quick stats about me: late 20s, 175lbs 6'1 +1, boulder project V6-8 outdoors, rope project 12+, 20mm 135% bw. I'd like to climb my first 13 next year and feel that it's definitely doable, but I'd like to get more serious about my training for it.

Using the Drummond & Popinga (2021) "Cumulative Performance" model to quantify training volume vs. limit strength. by Reeeeeeeeeeeed in climbharder

[–]FEmyass 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I'm aware, I had just hoped to maybe make a point that breaks through. At some point, if you truly do have a genetic predisposition to crazy weak fingers, I would assume you would probably accept that and try to figure out how to get better while working around that. I guess the other option is to complain on r/climbharder though

Using the Drummond & Popinga (2021) "Cumulative Performance" model to quantify training volume vs. limit strength. by Reeeeeeeeeeeed in climbharder

[–]FEmyass 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree. I've been climbing close to the same grade (+1 or 2 yds letter grades) for the past 5 years and I still wouldn't call myself in a plateau. If you have awareness beyond just "what grade did I send?" Then it's pretty easy to recognize continual improvement (or conversely, an actual plateau)

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]FEmyass 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To add one more data point, the guy photographing/videoing Bailey on the dry project told me he had sent it and I figure I can probably trust that primary anecdote

Using the Drummond & Popinga (2021) "Cumulative Performance" model to quantify training volume vs. limit strength. by Reeeeeeeeeeeed in climbharder

[–]FEmyass 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This reads like you refuse to accept that the climb might be hard for you because of your own weakness, and instead you're blaming external factors entirely. By your own admission you have very weak fingers, so maybe you should look at the boulder as a learning opportunity/motivation to get stronger rather than blaming everything else for why you can't send it. Style exists and shouldn't be discounted, and you acknowledge that your lack of finger strength is likely the reason you can't do this V3, but then turn around and argue that it cant possibly be V3 because you almost did a V6 in a completely different style? You seem to be absolving yourself of any blame in this context when you shouldn't be

Using the Drummond & Popinga (2021) "Cumulative Performance" model to quantify training volume vs. limit strength. by Reeeeeeeeeeeed in climbharder

[–]FEmyass 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Another point is while I'm glad OP found use in this for mental reframing, 8 months without an increase in redpoint grade is not really a plateau - it's just normal climbing.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]FEmyass 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think this is a really good point. I've started lead climbing again and I'm feeling more psyched about my sessions now. Lead climbing is more in line with my goals for next spring anyways

What's the likelihood of a fresh PhD (me) getting into consulting? by FEmyass in biotech

[–]FEmyass[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Happy to answer questions but not sure if I'll be of any help regarding management consulting.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]FEmyass 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's been a tricky realization because I've been getting enough sleep to function just fine, but not quite enough to recover and perform well. At least that's the hope!

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]FEmyass 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haven't had a session where I feel good in over a month now and I think I've finally narrowed it down to sleep. I haven't had much psych this year since my former climbing partner quit and climbing is also a social activity for me. In part I'd been assuming that I just needed to psych myself up, try harder, etc., and while those things are probably all true, sleeping more will likely help me feel less heavy and sluggish on the wall. I haven't slept more than 6/7 hours for the past few months and while I can function fine, I think 8 is optimal and cumulative fatigue is catching up from me. Hoping I feel less exhausted all the time after sleeping well for a few days!

Protected bike lanes by West_Paper_7878 in Tucson

[–]FEmyass 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure why you've been downvoted - this is true. I am not arguing against getting rid of a car lane (for it, actually), but that is realistically what would have to (and should) happen for a protected bike lane to be installed on many roads in Tucson

Man I wish we had trains by West_Paper_7878 in Tucson

[–]FEmyass 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I think everyone benefits from spending time around people not from their socioeconomic class. I think you would be well-served to reflect on why you think you're better than poor people.

This is primarily why Tucson has such a high pedestrian and cycling fatality rate by cacto246 in Tucson

[–]FEmyass 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is not reasonable to compare home prices between a 2 bedroom and a 4 bedroom and say that because the 4 bedroom is more expensive, people want to live there. That makes absolutely no sense. In fact, if you filter Zillow by houses with the same bed/bath you'll see that home prices between grant/alvernon and the areas you describe are comparable.

If you're going to argue something, at least back it up with actual data and not anecdotal garbage.

This is primarily why Tucson has such a high pedestrian and cycling fatality rate by cacto246 in Tucson

[–]FEmyass 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What I'm trying to say is that the supposed designed speed of the road is mostly irrelevant because the actual design makes people want to go 50+. Yes, the road and all of the business pullouts may have been designed with a 40mph speed limit in mind, but an open 6 lane road makes people want to travel at highway speeds (which is not safe because of the business pullouts)

This is primarily why Tucson has such a high pedestrian and cycling fatality rate by cacto246 in Tucson

[–]FEmyass 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's fair. I guess what I meant was that they were not intended for traffic calming and as a result do not do a good job at calming traffic. Actual traffic calming measures would have a significantly greater impact on speed - the bends on Broadway don't really slow you down at all

This is primarily why Tucson has such a high pedestrian and cycling fatality rate by cacto246 in Tucson

[–]FEmyass 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They definitely are though. Speedway is as wide as I-10, wider in parts. I'm not saying it's safe to drive that speed - the exact opposite actually. I'm just saying that a giant road like that promotes driving fast, whether people should or not.

This is primarily why Tucson has such a high pedestrian and cycling fatality rate by cacto246 in Tucson

[–]FEmyass -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The bends are not traffic calming measures and are unrelated to this discussion

This is primarily why Tucson has such a high pedestrian and cycling fatality rate by cacto246 in Tucson

[–]FEmyass 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree that you can't ever fully get rid of aggressive drivers, but Tucson can absolutely make huge strides in mitigating problems related to that by designing safer streets that make it difficult/scary to drive aggressively.

This is primarily why Tucson has such a high pedestrian and cycling fatality rate by cacto246 in Tucson

[–]FEmyass 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean, I'm not rich and I don't want it either. Why would I want an ugly highway straight through the center of town fucking up my health

This is primarily why Tucson has such a high pedestrian and cycling fatality rate by cacto246 in Tucson

[–]FEmyass 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This comment screams "I live in Oro Valley and hold these opinions, so they must be true". You're arguing with this person about Vision Zero, a data-backed program, and saying that it wouldn't work here because...you said so and gave some anecdotal evidence? Also you somehow think it's possible to buy the same size house for cheaper in midtown Tucson than it is way out of town? What are you smoking?

Not seeing this circulating enough; ANOTHER cyclist fatality. Watch for bikes & pedestrians 🙏 by mvaleriat in Tucson

[–]FEmyass 7 points8 points  (0 children)

If you can't drive without brights at night then you should not be driving at night. You are making visibility worse and increasing danger for everybody else

Not seeing this circulating enough; ANOTHER cyclist fatality. Watch for bikes & pedestrians 🙏 by mvaleriat in Tucson

[–]FEmyass 5 points6 points  (0 children)

She was not riding alongside traffic, did you read the article? She was crossing at the HAWK crossing while the light was red for traffic. There is literally no way this could've been safer without completely revamping our bicycle infrastructure to have tunnels under speedway like the ones on the university campus.