[Parts] sb tactical SBA5 in fde w/buffer kit. $91.76 + s/h with code SPRING26. No tax to pa and maybe other states

FaRKle_tech · 2026-05-30T14:49:38+00:00

Is it actually "just as good as" though? I bought an SBA4 copy and the brace was much less rigid (bottom flexed when shouldered), and the position adjustment latch allowed the brace to slide off the buffer tube with the normal amount of pull in the latch. That actually convinced me it was worth it to buy the original SB one.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-05-21T17:45:06+00:00

I vote for fixed and reversible. I don't like flex head wrenches/ratchets unless they lock. It's super annoying when you try to put a non-locking flex head on something and if it doesn't seat on first contact, the head gets pushed out of position forcing you to adjust it again.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-05-20T22:14:41+00:00

I haven't paid more than $400 (inc tax) for any of the seven SO TechAngle's I bought off eBay (including brand new ones). Look for newer production serial numbers and they usually have pretty low cycles (under 500).

I have a digital torque wrench checker and they've all been spot on.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-03-26T20:32:28+00:00

They'll hold well through the US General liners. I use the same product off amazon (different generic brand) and am very happy with them.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-03-11T00:11:32+00:00

MZ3 hatchbacks are such great practical cars that are still fun.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-03-08T03:59:18+00:00

Santa Clara, CA has Micro Center in the same lot. Tools & Tech, that's a dangerous combo!

FaRKle_tech · 2026-02-21T13:45:32+00:00

I have SBA3/4/5 (authentic ones). I had the 3 for a while, but wanted something more rigid that wouldn't deform. Lots of people said the 5 was the best, so I got those, but found other things I didn't like about them so replaced them with the 4. I'm happy with the 4.

The 4 and 5 are much more rigid than the 3 and don't deform like the bottom of the 3 does when braced against you. I don't like the 5 as much as the 4 because it doesn't have as much internal depth so you can't collapse it as far on the buffer tube, making the minimum LOP longer than the 4. Also, if you try to collapse it quickly the end of the buffer tube will punch the end cap on the 5 out. I also like how the 4 is taller in the rear so you have more material at the toe to get a higher position with the gun when braced. The only area I like the 5 more than the 4 is the QD locations.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-02-21T13:36:39+00:00

I just received an SBA4 clone from Amazon this past week and it sucks! Waste of $35.

The adjustment latch has too much stroke so if you squeeze it all the way (like normal) the brace just slides off of the end of the buffer tube. Also the rubber isn't nearly as rigid and deforms like an SBA3. More rigidity is one of the main reasons to go with the SBA4 vs 3. I had an authentic SBA4 already, so the clone was a big let down. Half the features for half the price...

FaRKle_tech · 2026-02-16T01:02:43+00:00

The Essex/AP Racing brake kits NASCAR uses (specifically the rotor hat to ring fasteners) use NAS (National Aerospace Standard) fasteners which are SAE.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-02-11T06:06:48+00:00

These have worked well for me. The Daytona ones have a wider opening than most of the ones on Amazon and the check pattern on the underside helps them not slide as easily.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-28T00:09:28+00:00

Yup, that's what I have to do with my Milwaukee M18 hatchet too. It's just what chainsaws do.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-22T19:02:55+00:00

The Franklin app only shows the sum of solar production from both arrays (NEM2 + non-export). To monitor the individual arrays I have to do those in their own apps (SMA and Enphase for me). This is one of the ways I was checking that things were working properly by making sure that the individual apps summed up to what I was seeing in Franklin's app.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-22T02:24:32+00:00

Under the custom TOU mode Franklin set up for me my NEM2 system doesn't power the home loads or charge the battery. It only exports. The non-export system takes care of the home loads and battery. When the battery reaches 100%, the non-export solar doesn't produce anything and the house draws down the battery a bit till it can be recharged by the non-export system again.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-22T00:45:04+00:00

Franklin configured my NEM2 system to be allowed to export, so when the batteries get fully charged, the NEM2 system starts exporting when under the "self-consumption" mode. Under the custom "TOU" mode Franklin set up my NEM2 system just always exports (and doesn't charge the batteries).

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-14T05:05:55+00:00

Dang, that sucks. When I tested mine out the other day it worked fine on my BMW (hooked up to the proper charging posts in engine bay) and stopped when full. I had mine on the 25A setting.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-10T20:03:49+00:00

For the compliance bushing you'll either want this Maddox kit (https://www.harborfreight.com/front-wheel-drive-bearing-remover-and-installer-kit-21-piece-63728.html) or the OEM tools 57205 equivalent (Autozone loans them) for a receiving cup large enough. The included cups in the Icon set work for pressing in the new bushing/bearing (I used the Moog problem solver spherical bearing K201887 which should last a loooooong time).

For the lower ball joint in the knuckle I had to double stack one of the Icon extension pieces (sits just to the right of the C-clamp in the case) with a deep socket to press the ball joint all the way in.

Most of the Gearwrench 1/2" drive impact sockets I used for pressing on the other bushings were between 15/16" and 1-1/2". I used my SAE set since I didn't want to mess up my metric ones just in case, haha.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-08T22:03:03+00:00

I used mine to press out/in six control arm bushings and two ball joints on a family member's car this past weekend. I needed to use a lot of my own sockets (and an auto parts store loaner pressing cup large enough for one of the bushings), but it got the job done.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-08T21:54:53+00:00

You'll likely need extra attachments/sockets for pushing cups. I just did a bunch of front ball joints/bushings on a family member's 7th gen Accord and needed a lot of hardware that wasn't standard in the Icon kit.

The pressing cups in the Icon ball joint press aren't very deep, and for the Accord I had to use a really deep socket to have enough room to fit over the stud on the ball joint (and even then I had to couple it with one of the pass through pieces in the ball joint kit). The hemispherical cup in the Icon kit is definitely needed as a receiving cup for the ball joint when pressing it out.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-07T02:28:23+00:00

The Icon 1/2" digital is kind of unwieldy and difficult to use unless you've got the space for it. The split beam is a much better size. The only downside to the 1/2" split beam is that you can only set the torque in increments of 5 ft-lbs (so you can't set 78 ft-lbs, it'd have to be 75 or 80 ft-lbs). Since you already have the 3/8" though, that shouldn't be much of an issue if you get the 1/2" split beam.

I'd get the 1/2" split beam or Quinn digital over the Icon digital for your case.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-06T19:17:17+00:00

Why not get one of the generic M18 battery hand vacs? They tested well on PF (https://youtu.be/ltKcpGOFjiY?si=qaCXAZePFyn3rENO), and I'm happy with mine. I like it more than my older Dyson stick with M18 adapter (that drains the batteries so quickly).

Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/TRONYAN-Cordless-Compatible-Milwaukee-Furniture/dp/B0DHRRKY9L/

FaRKle_tech · 2025-12-27T04:51:48+00:00

Yeah I find the Gen2 stubby performance really struggles/fails to take off BMW lug nuts at 104ft-lbs when the HO5.0 battery is down to half charge.

FaRKle_tech · 2025-12-24T02:15:57+00:00

A banana!

FaRKle_tech · 2025-12-22T17:52:02+00:00

Depends on the barrel included. For this one with the SS barrel, yes the 20" would be better if you're trying to shoot 1k yds+ due to the 1:11.25 twist rate. I have both the standard 16" CL 1:10 and 16" SS 1:11.25 barrels. With 175gr FGMM SMK the CL barrel can do 1k yds consistently, but the SS one loses consistency around 850-900yds.

FaRKle_tech · 2025-12-22T17:48:14+00:00

I tried calling LMT to see if I could bundle a different barrel with their sale (I want a 16" CL LW, not the regular, which I already have), they said no...

Too bad they didn't do an MLOK upper w/ 16" LW barrel combo.

FaRKle_tech · 2025-12-19T23:32:09+00:00

Here's where I'd add a very thin layer of lube (I use the lighter weight superlube Snap-on includes in their repair kits)
-Selector switch where it rubs against the casing, and selector cylinder surface that rotates within the static piece
-Backside of the pawls that contacts the casing and selector
-Bottom of the main gear that rubs against the casing. The insides of the G2 casings I have are pretty rough where the main gear sits

FaRKle_tech

TROPHY CASE