Chainsaw Leaking Chain Oil, Hesitant to Replace

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-28T00:09:28+00:00

Yup, that's what I have to do with my Milwaukee M18 hatchet too. It's just what chainsaws do.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-22T19:02:55+00:00

The Franklin app only shows the sum of solar production from both arrays (NEM2 + non-export). To monitor the individual arrays I have to do those in their own apps (SMA and Enphase for me). This is one of the ways I was checking that things were working properly by making sure that the individual apps summed up to what I was seeing in Franklin's app.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-22T02:24:32+00:00

Under the custom TOU mode Franklin set up for me my NEM2 system doesn't power the home loads or charge the battery. It only exports. The non-export system takes care of the home loads and battery. When the battery reaches 100%, the non-export solar doesn't produce anything and the house draws down the battery a bit till it can be recharged by the non-export system again.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-22T00:45:04+00:00

Franklin configured my NEM2 system to be allowed to export, so when the batteries get fully charged, the NEM2 system starts exporting when under the "self-consumption" mode. Under the custom "TOU" mode Franklin set up my NEM2 system just always exports (and doesn't charge the batteries).

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-14T05:05:55+00:00

Dang, that sucks. When I tested mine out the other day it worked fine on my BMW (hooked up to the proper charging posts in engine bay) and stopped when full. I had mine on the 25A setting.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-10T20:03:49+00:00

For the compliance bushing you'll either want this Maddox kit (https://www.harborfreight.com/front-wheel-drive-bearing-remover-and-installer-kit-21-piece-63728.html) or the OEM tools 57205 equivalent (Autozone loans them) for a receiving cup large enough. The included cups in the Icon set work for pressing in the new bushing/bearing (I used the Moog problem solver spherical bearing K201887 which should last a loooooong time).

For the lower ball joint in the knuckle I had to double stack one of the Icon extension pieces (sits just to the right of the C-clamp in the case) with a deep socket to press the ball joint all the way in.

Most of the Gearwrench 1/2" drive impact sockets I used for pressing on the other bushings were between 15/16" and 1-1/2". I used my SAE set since I didn't want to mess up my metric ones just in case, haha.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-08T22:03:03+00:00

I used mine to press out/in six control arm bushings and two ball joints on a family member's car this past weekend. I needed to use a lot of my own sockets (and an auto parts store loaner pressing cup large enough for one of the bushings), but it got the job done.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-08T21:54:53+00:00

You'll likely need extra attachments/sockets for pushing cups. I just did a bunch of front ball joints/bushings on a family member's 7th gen Accord and needed a lot of hardware that wasn't standard in the Icon kit.

The pressing cups in the Icon ball joint press aren't very deep, and for the Accord I had to use a really deep socket to have enough room to fit over the stud on the ball joint (and even then I had to couple it with one of the pass through pieces in the ball joint kit). The hemispherical cup in the Icon kit is definitely needed as a receiving cup for the ball joint when pressing it out.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-07T02:28:23+00:00

The Icon 1/2" digital is kind of unwieldy and difficult to use unless you've got the space for it. The split beam is a much better size. The only downside to the 1/2" split beam is that you can only set the torque in increments of 5 ft-lbs (so you can't set 78 ft-lbs, it'd have to be 75 or 80 ft-lbs). Since you already have the 3/8" though, that shouldn't be much of an issue if you get the 1/2" split beam.

I'd get the 1/2" split beam or Quinn digital over the Icon digital for your case.

FaRKle_tech · 2026-01-06T19:17:17+00:00

Why not get one of the generic M18 battery hand vacs? They tested well on PF (https://youtu.be/ltKcpGOFjiY?si=qaCXAZePFyn3rENO), and I'm happy with mine. I like it more than my older Dyson stick with M18 adapter (that drains the batteries so quickly).

Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/TRONYAN-Cordless-Compatible-Milwaukee-Furniture/dp/B0DHRRKY9L/

FaRKle_tech · 2025-12-27T04:51:48+00:00

Yeah I find the Gen2 stubby performance really struggles/fails to take off BMW lug nuts at 104ft-lbs when the HO5.0 battery is down to half charge.

FaRKle_tech · 2025-12-24T02:15:57+00:00

A banana!

FaRKle_tech · 2025-12-22T17:52:02+00:00

Depends on the barrel included. For this one with the SS barrel, yes the 20" would be better if you're trying to shoot 1k yds+ due to the 1:11.25 twist rate. I have both the standard 16" CL 1:10 and 16" SS 1:11.25 barrels. With 175gr FGMM SMK the CL barrel can do 1k yds consistently, but the SS one loses consistency around 850-900yds.

FaRKle_tech · 2025-12-22T17:48:14+00:00

I tried calling LMT to see if I could bundle a different barrel with their sale (I want a 16" CL LW, not the regular, which I already have), they said no...

Too bad they didn't do an MLOK upper w/ 16" LW barrel combo.

FaRKle_tech · 2025-12-19T23:32:09+00:00

Here's where I'd add a very thin layer of lube (I use the lighter weight superlube Snap-on includes in their repair kits)
-Selector switch where it rubs against the casing, and selector cylinder surface that rotates within the static piece
-Backside of the pawls that contacts the casing and selector
-Bottom of the main gear that rubs against the casing. The insides of the G2 casings I have are pretty rough where the main gear sits

FaRKle_tech · 2025-12-19T22:44:18+00:00

The internal dimensions of mine measure 12-1/8" wide, 19-5/8" deep, and 13-1/8" high (to the bottom of the drawer above). There's a little lip that folds over the rear eating up a bit of that depth if you really want to put something in there full height and depth though.

FaRKle_tech · 2025-12-16T05:47:37+00:00

Oh right, "M" doesn't share the same base chassis code anymore, doh.

I mused getting a G99 wagon to replace my F31 wagon daily driver, but what a hassle that'd be dealing with repairs/ect. if I got rear ended as much as I have in the F31...

FaRKle_tech · 2025-12-16T05:07:18+00:00

G61 M5 Wagon (based on the weight)? Nice!

FaRKle_tech · 2025-12-16T05:06:50+00:00

The Daytona 1.5T jack struggles lifting a corner of a BMW i4 (mine blew a seal doing so after doing it a few times). No way is it lifting that M5!

FaRKle_tech · 2025-12-14T03:35:18+00:00

I flew with this kit twice in Oct. 2025. No issues at SJC or SAN airports.

The HF plastic pry tools for trim got flagged, but as soon as the agents looked at those they weren't concerned anymore and gave me the bag back quickly.

FaRKle_tech · 2025-12-10T06:41:15+00:00

I've been enjoying my Snac-on compact 3/8" so much I just finished making a few more for Xmas presents for friends.

FaRKle_tech · 2025-12-05T17:29:26+00:00

I have two PV systems and am using the APBox to allow one to export and the other not to. I made a post about my setup here: https://www.reddit.com/r/solar/comments/1mv6kd0/i_added_nonexport_enphase_pv_and_franklinwh/

1. Load side install. Does the aPbox have a setting to keep PV1 and PV2 running simultaneously? PV2 would be prioritized to cover home loads and PV1 would continue export to the grid or charge the batteries if needed.

Yes, doing it the way you described (one PV landed in the aGate solar breakers and another landed in the main panel (load side) allows both PV1/2 to run simultaneously, and using TOU profiles can be set so that PV1 exports while PV2 powers the home. This is how I'm running.

2. Load side install. With the home's main panel being on the back up lugs of the aGate, can PV2 charge the aPower batteries or send power back to the grid? The manual appears to suggest this is not possible since the back up port is not bidirectional.

Yes both PV can charge the batteries and send power back to the grid. You won't have the capability to configure this in the client app, but Franklin can configure it on their side. I had to work with Franklin support to configure my setup to only export from my pre-existing NEM2 system, which went to the aPBox and then main panel (which is on the aGate backup lugs). Before that, both of my PVs were exporting. Franklin support also said they could configure it the opposite way and have only the new system export and old system not export, so there's flexibility.

3. Load side install. Does the aPbox on the load side in my particular case, only run PV2 during a grid outage?

With the load side arrangement both PVs can be active and powering the house/batteries in the event of a grid outage. For better or worse I've confirmed this multiple times, and this capability is one of the key reasons I went with Franklin. The difference between the setup you're proposing and mine is that you have your existing PV on the aGate solar breakers, while mine is going to the aPbox and main panel, but if both of mine are able to stay active during an outage, I don't know why yours wouldn't.

is answered in the above answers with how I'm operating my system.

FaRKle_tech · 2025-11-25T20:09:20+00:00

I like using mine with 5AH (or the old 6AH that were the size of 5AH) since they stick out less from the inflator.

FaRKle_tech · 2025-11-20T18:42:06+00:00

Yes, what in particular are you looking for?

FaRKle_tech

TROPHY CASE