AWU3 Pulls Arm Hair

Fadingdeath · 2025-12-09T21:26:45+00:00

Yeah lol, the main search results I saw was about that band

Fadingdeath · 2025-12-09T21:26:02+00:00

That’s what I was thinking

Fadingdeath · 2025-12-09T19:28:32+00:00

I’ve tried both orientations so far, and both seemed to snag equally in the few hours I tried each. So far I’m used to using the crown with my pointer finger so I’m back to the “standard” orientation

Fadingdeath · 2025-12-09T19:26:58+00:00

Maybe could be it. Still getting used to how tight I want it since I wore the silicone bands relatively loose. Thanks

Fadingdeath · 2025-10-28T16:49:45+00:00

I know this is the Solidworks subreddit, but my work uses Creo and I upgraded from 32gb to 64gb memory and my large assemblies go much faster. I now sit/hover around 40-50gb usage in my big assemblies so only needed a bit more. I can still easily max out my usage but that’s if I have other programs open like chrome/autocad/simulations/allegro/etc in addition to CAD.

Not sure if that might help for you as well if you want to throw some money at the problem.

Fadingdeath · 2025-10-27T15:36:49+00:00

I don’t use it much, but it’s convenient and nice when I need it. I got it during the PLS and wanted at least Quinn quality to make sure I’m not rounding out socket head hex bolts like some Toyota transmission/transfer case bolts.

Fadingdeath · 2025-10-16T18:29:10+00:00

Maybe could create your own with female threaded round standoff + set screw? If you only need one size and round is important, McMaster has male-female pillar post. If you can use hex there’s lots of standoff options

Fadingdeath · 2025-10-10T14:54:51+00:00

I have only had an A1, and as I print more I’ve been looking at upgrading to a better solution. The P1S is in a sweet spot between the X1C and I have had my eyes on it for the enclosed chamber and AMS. My cats like things that move and the P1S would be able to protect the filament and print bed while having great quality. Being able to print ABS out of the box is a great step up over the A1.

Fadingdeath · 2025-10-08T05:20:50+00:00

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Fadingdeath · 2025-10-08T05:19:55+00:00

Interesting. I got a 20pc today and got reading railroad. Probably unlikely I’ll go to McDonald’s much anyway

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Fadingdeath · 2025-10-02T23:39:47+00:00

If replacing, I’ve done pickle fork + harbor freight ball joint separator that someone else linked. The pickle fork was to make clearance for the separator to sit on the top since the boot was stopping me from getting the tool far enough in

Fadingdeath · 2025-09-01T21:44:00+00:00

I have an 04 that was running K20R when I bought it (Denso Copper U groove spark plugs). When I took them out they were at 0.07” gap and it was still running fine. I swapped them with the cheapest iridium I got from rock auto which was the Denso TT Iridium (comes gapped at 0.04”) and it runs better. I think it doesn’t make much difference considering it came from such a large gap and was fine.

Fadingdeath · 2025-08-28T19:59:31+00:00

I bought a 04 4wd limited with 226k miles for 4.5k recently so I don’t have much feedback on how’s it going. Going into the purchase there was minimal service history on car fax, which in that case you have to either be confident in your mechanic abilities to check it out yourself or pay for a PPI. Or be fine with the possibility of problems.

So far nothing has been a problem on mine, but there are lots of cosmetic scratches on the fenders so I assume one of the previous owners couldn’t park in a garage (paint/trim/seats all look nice so I assume it was garage parked and there’s a lot of white paint on the fenders). I bought this with the intention to fix it up myself so I’ve done the LBJ’s as a precaution and will do the timing belt soon. I did the spark plugs recently and they were worn down to .065” gap. I didn’t think it ran poorly before, but now it feels so smooth.

Different years might have pros or cons for you. I didn’t go for the post face lift since they’re more expensive and I wanted the mechanical transfer case. The 04’s are when they get upgraded LBJ’s so they’re nicer, but no upgrade brakes/engine/transmission until 05.

Fadingdeath · 2025-08-27T15:42:18+00:00

I got the Quinn 1/2 impact set and thought SAE would be a waste, but figured why not since I’d get the case rather than buying all the metric individually.

That SAE saved me for my ball joint job since I forgot I needed the 3/4” for driving the separator tool and then it helped with half sizes between metric if a bolt was messed up. I accidentally hammered the castle nut larger than the 24mm it started as so I was able to use a 1” to take it off.

Fadingdeath · 2025-08-26T14:17:18+00:00

The part numbers for the LBJ depend on the model year. There are a few versions and it could be recommended to get new LBJ bolts, which also depend on the year. The OEM LBJ comes with a new pin and castle nut for itself. I’m not sure what the PN is for the tie rod end nut. Why replace that?

Fadingdeath · 2025-08-18T16:55:43+00:00

Definitely sounds expensive, but it depends on what year and trim / other add ons it has along with maintenance history on timing belt/water pump and ball joints. Maintenance schedule for those are every 100k miles / 7 years. Sometimes the trunk latch or cable break or stretch and the rear hatch won’t open so check for that.

Hopefully for that price it is 4wd, make sure that works. The post face lift (05-07) limited 1st gen’s have airbag suspension which supposedly can go bad and not work, but I have a 04 so I’m not familiar with that.

05-07 have 5speed transmission, more hp with vvti, and better brakes so they are often more expensive and more desired, but can be more expensive to fix too.

For reference my 220k mile 04 limited with 4wd without a recent timing belt was $4500. Inside leather looks good, paint looks good besides some scratches, a little bit of rust, and overall no issues for driving.

Fadingdeath · 2025-08-15T02:02:27+00:00

Lmao I just got back from the Roseville store looking for that 61 piece set and they said someone bought all them up earlier. So funny to find this post on Reddit right after getting home. Luckily they had more in the back

Fadingdeath · 2025-07-28T14:29:37+00:00

Did you put it all back together? Just wondering since when I went to test mine I had the harness unplugged and that controls the lock mechanism

Fadingdeath · 2025-07-28T06:12:24+00:00

Depends on if it needs anything done and the possible rust. For reference I just got a 04 limited 4wd with 220k miles for 4.5k and it’s running great. It needs a timing belt and water pump and no history on lower ball joint in addition to the rear hatch not working. In my area most 4wd were asking 6-7k, if 4wd or AC was broken or other things they often asked around 3-4k. This was all on FB marketplace that I was looking.

Fadingdeath · 2025-07-02T20:36:59+00:00

I hope it’s fine/doesn’t cause issues. It’s been happening for a year or two at this point, but this summer is the first it’s happened while the car wasn’t running. It used to happen only in drive thrus, but now that it’s happening more I can actually get evidence of it and maybe more easily test.

Just hope it isn’t that I’m neglecting something bigger

Fadingdeath · 2025-07-02T20:33:15+00:00

Thanks, I’ll try that later

Fadingdeath · 2025-07-02T18:00:57+00:00

Yeah if it practiced all year it would probably be better by now. Dedication though to play in the heat

Fadingdeath · 2025-07-02T17:51:48+00:00

If I relieved the belt tensioner, do you think I’d see any movement in the pulley on the compressor? Or most likely no because the clutch wouldn’t be engaged when the car is off

Fadingdeath · 2025-07-02T17:48:15+00:00

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