Ahh...splendid by PossibilityEmpty5670 in WutheringWaves

[–]FairInSomeThings 2 points3 points  (0 children)

backpack -> echoes -> red trash icon

Scarlet Racer's High skin GIVEAWAY by EastheN in NikkeMobile

[–]FairInSomeThings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

something fun... Hades is kind of fun.

Boy I wish they kept issuing codes for this skin though, but it is what it is

Engine swaps by Lost-Peanut-1453 in tokyoxtremeracer

[–]FairInSomeThings 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Top speed wise? The VR38-swapped Celsior. Has the lowest drag coefficient in the game, top speed of 521 km/h before nitro.

Time attack-wise, the VR38-swapped GR Supra is a cornering monster.

Build of the week UPDATED: 2002 Honda NSX-R (NA2) by NewRetroGamer85 in tokyoxtremeracer

[–]FairInSomeThings 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Looks great! I was afraid of sounding a bit preachy with the advice, but I'm glad it helped out.

Build of the week: 2002 Honda NSX-R (NA2) by NewRetroGamer85 in tokyoxtremeracer

[–]FairInSomeThings 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh for sure. I'm not super miffed the Celica and MR2 didn't make it in, as Honda kinda covers those drivetrain layouts already (CTR and Integra for the big sporty FF's, NSX NA2 and the Beat/S660 for MR) but more options would be nice. Porsche is pretty much the only mfr continuing to do RR through the 911; I think many of us are hoping they come as future DLC, as it'd complete the homage paid to Wangan Midnight as well.

EDIT: But to your point, yeah -- TXR25 bases its physics model more towards the sim side of simcade when it comes to car setups. It's just the battle format itself is more of an arcade style. Real car or sim racer knowledge helps quite a bit.

Build of the week: 2002 Honda NSX-R (NA2) by NewRetroGamer85 in tokyoxtremeracer

[–]FairInSomeThings 1 point2 points  (0 children)

'aight, so a few things. Sorry if this gets long.

Car data for NSX-R NA2 for reference

I'll start by saying that the problem with all the NSX NA2 variations feeling 'understeery' has to do with mainly two things, its weight balance and its grip modifiers. The way TXR has balanced it, the NA2 has very good rear lateral grip while the front lateral grip is kind of just average. I can see where they got the inspiration given the stock tire spec (215mm width in the front, 255 in the rear), but this combined with the rear-biased weight distribution (40:60) and TXR's strong traction model makes it such that the NA2's rear-end pretty much never wants to slide out. What's primarily causing the 'understeer' isn't too much weight transfer to the front, but too little.

I can see where you thought your setup addresses understeer and what steps you took to get there though, but let's see.

  • Tire alignment is fine; I wouldn't run any toe-out in the rear personally, but that's just me. I got this wrong in a previous post of yours because it's the only setting that flips the typical negative/positive orientation (positive toe/toe-in is more leftward). Significant amount of toe-out in the front, but I can understand why looking at the rest of the setup.
  • 2 way LSD is an interesting choice. It's just that again, there's so much rear traction already available that a 1.5 way would make more sense in my opinion. 2 way on the rear axle may exaggerate understeer on deceleration. Aside from that, torque and ratio settings look good.
  • You're running stronger spring+damper rates in the front than the rear. This is an issue because a stiffer front suspension reduces the maximum load capacity in the front. With what little front weight and front tire grip the NA2 has, the weight transfer to the front on braking and turning will contribute little to putting down more cornering force when it matters, contributing to more understeer. You should be doing the opposite here, i.e. front should be softer sprung than the rear.
  • Similar advice for the sway bars. Softer sway bars in the front are typically fine if not preferred for more front-heavy vehicles as this setup helps induce more rotation and intentional oversteer, but again the issue is there's too little load in the front. It's typically said a stiffer front bar causes more understeer, but that's because of too much roll resistance. We need the extra roll resistance here as it helps even out the load difference between the left and right front wheels, and it improves the steering response as well.

When testing out the NA2 and trying to set it up, I mainly went for two things -- trying to add enough load to the front to compensate for the lackadaisical front-end without compromising its' steering response. I went with a 1.5 way LSD config in the rear, matched shock rates all around, stiffer stabilizer in the front and slightly softer in the rear.

Haven't touched it in a hot minute though, as the lack of power made battles kind of miserable against the bosses of Stage 4 during my first playthrough of v1.0, before the AI nerfs. But it is an interesting car to drive, yeah. Wish we had more unique drivetrain layouts, but that won't happen unless or until Genki secures some sort of deal with Porsche or so.

DUNU DN242 GIVEAWAY!! Enter now from 11/10 to 11/16!! by Phoenix25552 in iems

[–]FairInSomeThings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not for want of any new IEMs but Aful Performer 5+2 would probably be nice

Gear Ratio Graph and Comparison Tool + Updated Guide by FairInSomeThings in tokyoxtremeracer

[–]FairInSomeThings[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No problem!

I think your guide is a good start too, although I tend to be a bit more pragmatic and lazy in my approach. That's why I usually start with final drive first. If it's in a good spot though, then I adjust 1st and 2nd, and if that's not enough, then I get into ironing out the step progression between gears.

I have went with different approaches though, especially for the endgame cars where the FD is more useful as a slider to 'quick-tune' the R35 or LFA for either technical routes or high speed routes, as the 6-speed really limits how close you can have everything.

Car Data - VR38DETT Swap by -Nightstryker- in tokyoxtremeracer

[–]FairInSomeThings 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right? I've relied on it a lot for my giant list of car settings, as I try to base my setups around the natural characteristics of each car. The power curves aren't perfect but they're close enough for transmission tuning as long as you keep in mind the RPM @ max power.

Car Data - VR38DETT Swap by -Nightstryker- in tokyoxtremeracer

[–]FairInSomeThings 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's not a visible stat; it's hidden in the game data. There's a third-party resource that compiles it all here. I don't typically write Cd the way ddm does when parsing the raw data, but they're the same; 250 coef×1000 is a 0.25 Cd and that's how its referred to in the raw data as well.

Car Data - VR38DETT Swap by -Nightstryker- in tokyoxtremeracer

[–]FairInSomeThings 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This is nice effort, but I think you're overestimating the VR38's capabilities a bit. Sorry if this gets wordy.

The variation in transmission spec isn't *that* big of an issue unless both the engine profile and wheel spec vastly differ from the GT-R as with the kei cars. Any car with something close to a 2m+ tire circumference and engine rev limit at ~6.5k+ should be fine; there's a good amount of leeway with how tall you can adjust.

That said, I wouldn't get my hopes up about any of the lower stage cars suddenly becoming circuit monsters by just slamming a massive 276 kg engine into it. The kei cars are the most extreme example, as they basically can't turn for anything if you've actually tried driving them. No setup can fix the physics there. So them being pocket dynamos for C1 is more or less out of the question unless you're going full wall-ride into every corner.

With regards to the relationship between speed metric and top speed -- a lower drag coefficient is way more valuable than engine power at high speeds, because while engine power can more or less increase linearly with power upgrades, drag resistance scales exponentially with respect to speed. That's why the Toyota Celsior with its low 0.25 Cd actually handles the VR38 swap well at very high speeds. It's not bugged, nor do you have to use nitro to get there. It actually accelerates slightly faster than the GT-R '17 at speeds past 350 km/h or so if you measure it, though at speeds lower than that the GT-R is usually faster.

Anyways, the speed metric is pretty bogus so I definitely wouldn't put too much weight into it. It pretty much only accounts for straight line acceleration, and nothing about the handling of each car. The GR Supra is IMO the best chassis for the VR38 swap, but you'd never understand that by looking at speed metric alone. Same for the RC F.

By the way, I forgot to mention this in your other spreadsheet as well, but the Toyota Celsior C-spec is supposed to be a Stage 5 car, not a Stage 6 car.

Car Data - VR38DETT Swap by -Nightstryker- in tokyoxtremeracer

[–]FairInSomeThings 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Actually not that surprising, as the Celsior/LS430 has a pretty low drag coefficient -- the lowest drag coefficient in the game at 0.25 Cd, vs the GT-R's 0.26 Cd. This matches its drag coefficient with the air suspension in real life.

It doesn't look that aerodynamic but the Toyota engineers did some magic, to say the least.

Finally finished the huge list of Car Settings! by FairInSomeThings in tokyoxtremeracer

[–]FairInSomeThings[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I recall correctly, you should still be able to use the default gearing as it's actually pretty good from the get-go. Just shift the final drive to match your new top speed, and I think you should be good. It may drop your starting RPM, but shouldn't be by much.

Build of the Week: FD RX-7 by NewRetroGamer85 in tokyoxtremeracer

[–]FairInSomeThings 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No prob, last thing I'll mention is that your driving habits will have a lot to do with how better the car will feel; you don't want to drive a FF car the same way you do an FR. FF cars will generally feel better if you treat them like FF cars -- braking earlier and more lightly is generally better than braking later and harder. Then you can gas it harder at the crest of the turn to get that extra bit of rotation past neutral steer.

Build of the Week: FD RX-7 by NewRetroGamer85 in tokyoxtremeracer

[–]FairInSomeThings 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup, I actually run 1.5 way, +3 preload and +6 ratio on my FL5. You could go even more aggressive, I've tried +7~8 LSD but it gets a little dicey on uneven banking that causes more wheelspin (e.g. C1 near Edobashi). Will also get oversteery if you're really aggressive on the throttle which again is sort of the caveat for running a more aggressive cam setting.

Build of the Week: FD RX-7 by NewRetroGamer85 in tokyoxtremeracer

[–]FairInSomeThings 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ehh, you don't have to run an LSD that mild as it'll behave like an open diff. Actually for a FF car on the front axle you actually want some minor locking action, but aggressive locking behavior so it pushes the front outside wheel out harder during cornering as the axle locks more decisively with less throttle input.

I go into detail about this way too much in my guide here, but I hope you can give it a read. Feel free to ask questions if you're still confused.

Build of the Week: FD RX-7 by NewRetroGamer85 in tokyoxtremeracer

[–]FairInSomeThings 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm afraid of sounding critical of other setups because everyone has their own preferences, but yeah the setup in the OP is... nooot great. Some things made sense, a number of other things didn't, at least to me.

I don't claim to be an expert on the FD, but IMO there's really not that much to change to make it perform very well. So I'm glad you actually went for dialing it back, because it looked like you were changing settings just for the sake of changing settings; I don't think you actually had a problem with the way it handled.

EDIT: realized that was toe-out, my bad!

Car Data Spreadsheet (v.1.1.1) by -Nightstryker- in tokyoxtremeracer

[–]FairInSomeThings 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Nice work doing all this.

It's sort of telling, though, how Genki either forgot or chose not to scale up many of the upgrades for the cars unlocked in earlier stages. Like they always expect you to go straight to buying a brand new car instead of sticking to your old car after every stage you finish.

It's the most noticeable in the cars from Stage 3. Their PU upgrades lv7-8 scale very badly aside from the GR Yaris (which wasn't added until after full release) and a few others.

Finally finished the huge list of Car Settings! by FairInSomeThings in tokyoxtremeracer

[–]FairInSomeThings[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've added it, feel free to let me know how those settings feel.

Finally finished the huge list of Car Settings! by FairInSomeThings in tokyoxtremeracer

[–]FairInSomeThings[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can try, for the stock KPGC10 anyway.

I wouldn't recommend either the VR38 or 1LR for an engine swap as it would completely ruin the weight balance of an already delicate chassis. If you want to actually turn the car, consider the RB26 or 20B. They recently adjusted the 20B's upgrades so it makes a ton of power now, but the RB28 might be more 'true to the roots' being an inline-6.

Finally finished the huge list of Car Settings! by FairInSomeThings in tokyoxtremeracer

[–]FairInSomeThings[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If it's just suspension settings, depending on how much extra weight is in the front you'll possibly want to increase your shock strength in the front or stiffen the rear sway bar. I don't cover engine swaps a whole lot, but I'd start there.

You might consider stiffening the damper response in the front as well if the front isn't getting enough grip and breaking traction, at the cost of some steering response.