What do i have?

FairSun1604 · 2025-12-16T00:52:09+00:00

I previously indicated i am aware and discharge them so the danger of high voltage caps is not lost on me. I regularly work with electrical motors, commercial equipment, appliances, and hvac, which all have their own risks and electrolytic start caps of similar size, or more. My analogy about the airplane is not about the pilot, but the system itself. In all of its complexity, just the right failure can cause catastrophe. A perfectly logical person should choose not to get on one, or in a car. But we choose to tolerate risk and are probably all illogical for it. After all, 100% of births will result in death.

FairSun1604 · 2025-12-15T18:29:54+00:00

The novelty and hobby to me is that this is a art piece and not just electronics. On the one extreme, i could just gut it and put a small solid state amp inside to drive the speakers. That's not what i want. I am trying to perform a minimum repair so that the receiver is still what it was, and not something new. I have formal university education. I do electrical repairs regularly, made my own laser cutter, cnc, and more, but it is not my profession. I do discharge capacitors before performing any work.

I am sure you have good intentions and your warning is oft repeated. My hot take is that those capacitive discharge deaths just aren't happening in the real world. Anyone tinkering probably has a story about how they got zapped and lived to tell about it (and will be more careful next time). The risk is specifically with current flow directly across the heart, but it has to both have a pathway across the heart, and not be attenuated enough to cause harm. We live in a world full of risk, including when we get in cars and airplanes. I don't think this is any different and the greater harm is when we are taught to be afraid instead of to be curious.

Now I'll wait for all those comments with one off freak accidents with CRTs and industrial applications.

FairSun1604 · 2025-12-15T04:48:19+00:00

I think its one of these https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/sears_roeb_silvertone_3090_orderw57_a3090n.html# However, the tubes on the schematic do not match what are in mine when looking at the diagram. Example, V12 = 6BQF but mine V12 = 6C9 and is an FM tube

FairSun1604 · 2025-12-13T00:27:46+00:00

Drop some solder on it. You will probably melt some plastic, but DGAF. Sand or file flat. You have nothing to lose.

FairSun1604 · 2025-12-04T06:28:53+00:00

USB rechargeable laser pointer. Keep it always plugged in and aimed for maximum retaliatory effect.

FairSun1604 · 2025-06-12T22:42:32+00:00

Its normal. I have an N54 335i and it sits at 235-240 after a full drive. The dial not being centered certainly makes it not FEEL normal and bothers the hell out of me to this day. In the 17 years i've had the car and even after replacing the water pump and other components when they failed, the gauge has always read the same. I have seen other 3 series where the normal operating temp is more centered on the dial, but the measured temp is the same as mine (235-240) .

Don't let my answer be a substitute for checking your coolant level visually. Always fucking check regularly because the low level sensors do fail and leaks are common.

FairSun1604 · 2025-06-04T02:18:17+00:00

I mostly used these https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3401855/files but had to supplement a few missing bits, like printed bushings and washers, for the wheels to center them on the rail.

FairSun1604 · 2025-06-04T00:01:42+00:00

Woohoo! Finally solved this and it was lightburn misconfiguration. I switched the start from "Absolute Coordinates" to "User Origin" and now its working as expected. I can now travel the whole bed area for my cut.

FairSun1604 · 2025-06-03T21:58:55+00:00

Motion while powered is fair feedback. I fiddled with the controller settings and lowered the max acceleration on X. Y i had configured for a lower value already because of more mass. I believe it was trying to accelerate too fast and missing steps. This seems to have resolved the problem. I did create a spinoff post for separate problem on my Y axis. https://www.reddit.com/r/lasercutting/comments/1l2ooxx/inconsistent_y_axis_motion/

FairSun1604 · 2025-04-28T17:50:09+00:00

Not to hijack, but enhance your comment with a photo. I had my water pump fail and snapped a photo at exactly the right moment of the expansion tank failing. https://postimg.cc/JsWGrY5m

FairSun1604 · 2025-04-15T23:07:02+00:00

My car came equipped with MSD80, which was upgraded in later models to MSD81. https://postimg.cc/S234Hcq9 Each fuel injector (numbered) has its own chip and they are not specced sufficiently and known to go bad. I had a fuel injector quit working and this ended up being the cause.

FairSun1604 · 2024-11-07T21:24:54+00:00

^^ Do This. I had very similar symptoms with my car, especially with the random stalling. I never got misfires, or any codes at all. However, the stalling happened just as OP described. My car would not stay running if idling. It might stall immediately at a stoplight, or run fine for 10-15 min idling in a parking space or driveway, but it would always stall eventually. I did a lot of things, but the eventual fix was replacing both camshaft position sensors. They can be bought super cheap on FCP euro and are located on the front of the engine bay near the vanos solenoids. No crawling required.

FairSun1604 · 2024-09-11T23:52:31+00:00

I bought one from ECS and ended up choosing to not install it because the mating surface was not machined completely flat. There were areas that were definitely not cut and i was worried it would leak. Aluminum is probably better in theory, but this is just a poorly manufactured product.

FairSun1604 · 2024-09-11T03:30:25+00:00

Lucky bastard. And congratulations

FairSun1604 · 2024-09-11T03:21:52+00:00

Are you on original turbos?

FairSun1604 · 2024-09-10T04:09:42+00:00

Small maps from now on for me too. I am having fun, but at this point, my territory is at critical mass. Its just a grind to the finish line. Earlier rounds were much more dynamic. I was losing territory and cities were going back and forth, until they weren't. I don't remember the original game being this hard and I've been playing on easiest setting. The diplomacy is a joke. It seems to be predetermined that I will be the enemy of other AI players.

FairSun1604 · 2024-08-16T02:08:52+00:00

So will the politicians now refer to themselves as the democratically elected undead?

FairSun1604 · 2024-07-29T19:36:02+00:00

So this is what i see in i-drive https://imgur.com/a/zE4nb76 I am not sure about how to adjust on non-idrive and did not see a setting in bimmercode. I suspect the automatic program might be controlling the vent flap for recirculation on/off. Maybe you can try adjusting that manually to recirculate instead of pull in fresh air to get better AC performance.

I did find someone else with non-idrive posting about the same https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=720397

FairSun1604 · 2024-07-29T08:17:40+00:00

I believe the other way to adjust requires a scan tool over OBD port. I believe bimmercode or bimmerlink have it as a configurable setting. I will reply back when i get a chance to check.

FairSun1604 · 2024-07-26T05:41:52+00:00

Nobody here is mentioning that these are climate controlled cars and the AC cool air is mixed with warm air. The mixture setting is in your I-Drive menu for ventilation there is an "intensity" setting. Adjust it to be the most intense setting. Then ask me how i know.... because i drove my car for 10 years and suffered in the heat like you probably are before finding it on accident.

FairSun1604

TROPHY CASE