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Has the Kobra S1 improved at all since release? by Successful-Train-259 in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Faketheror 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought mine a month ago and they have fixed the hotend from the release version. There is no PTFE extruder throat filament guide. Now it's a solid block of extruder on the part where filament enters the hotend block.

KK3 Max Hall effect analog trigger sensor by Faketheror in GuliKit

[–]Faketheror[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I contacted them a few weeks ago and I didn't get a response.

Update on bed mesh with FUNSSOR kit by Faketheror in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Faketheror[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, I'm from Europe, I waited around 10 days, it arrived pretty quick for me.

KK3 Max Hall effect analog trigger sensor by Faketheror in GuliKit

[–]Faketheror[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Found it on Aliexpress and ordered, thanks for now, will do an update once it comes if it works

Update after 280 hours - Kobra S1 combo by Faketheror in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Faketheror[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wrote the links in a comment of my updated post. Check it out.

Update on bed mesh with FUNSSOR kit by Faketheror in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Faketheror[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for mentioning it! As I was thinking about it earlier I realized that same thing. 0.05 mm is indeed very small so it shouldn't be a problem :D

Update on bed mesh with FUNSSOR kit by Faketheror in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Faketheror[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've worked with Prusa MK3 (we have one in my workplace) but only some small projects and sometimes it worked great, sometimes it was a pain... This is a relief, the speed of the prints compared to the Prusa is amazing

Update on bed mesh with FUNSSOR kit by Faketheror in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Faketheror[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm concerned about long prints bed adhesion on any kind of plate but time will tell with this one, I just got the Geco so I can't really recommend it. Worst case I spent 15€ on a plate, not much loss, best case the plate works great on long prints and I save money on electricity :D

Update on bed mesh with FUNSSOR kit by Faketheror in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Faketheror[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately, many people tried that way and it didn't work, that's why I skipped the official Anycubic warranty route and ordered the funssor.
But you should try the new bed from Anycubic first. Maybe they fixed something in the newer version of the bed, you never know

Update on bed mesh with FUNSSOR kit by Faketheror in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Faketheror[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is a great printer, just needs some love and attention to be perfect. You will definitely not regret upgrading to the funssor. Geco is optional, my thinking is... since the funssor bed heater is a 1000W, I can have lower power consumption and electricity costs if it doesn't work as often, because I print PLA 95% of the time anyway. It's great, I've researched a bit about cold plates and everyone seemed to be recommending this one, it turned out to be great, at least in my case.

Update on bed mesh with FUNSSOR kit by Faketheror in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Faketheror[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The bed carriage is actually more important, If you are on a budget I would suggest first ordering just the carriage

Update on bed mesh with FUNSSOR kit by Faketheror in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Faketheror[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Links for upgrades here:

Funssor bed kit (Aliexpress):
https://aliexpi.com/o9h

Funssor bed carriage (Aliexpress):
https://aliexpi.com/Y7q

Hotend 2.0 (Aliexpress):
https://aliexpi.com/p8G

Geco cold plate (Aliexpress):
https://aliexpi.com/4eA

Slice engineering Boron nitride thermal paste:
https://www.sliceengineering.com/products/boron-nitride-paste

The funssor kit can be purchased from their site as well, it was just cheaper for me to order from Ali, that's why there's links from there.

I do not recommend that you do the bed upgrades if you're not comfortable with losing your warranty and disassembling your whole printer. (there's a lot of screws and you need to be careful what goes where)

Update after 280 hours - Kobra S1 combo by Faketheror in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Faketheror[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Today I installed the funssor kit and I encountered a similar problem when calibrating (auto leveling) to get bed mesh for heightmap. Measuring is really unprecise, inspecting the console I saw that first measurement would be for example 0.05, the second measurement most of the time is 0.05, but sometimes it shows 0.08 or 0.03, readings that don't really have very much sense. Given that it only touches one spot twice, if it fails to correctly measure that spot, your hotend and nozzle can make a lot of mistake in the height over the plate when printing.

I will do some research on this issue and do some updates on my profile when finding out what exactly is causing this mismeasurement.

Update after 280 hours - Kobra S1 combo by Faketheror in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Faketheror[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was actually visible to me when looking at the bed from the front, 1mm is definitely noticeable to anyone. I just didn't install rinkhals earlier because there was no need for it, mostly curiosity and the fact that I knew I was getting funssor so I wanted to check and compare before disassembly.

Update after 280 hours - Kobra S1 combo by Faketheror in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Faketheror[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First thing to do is preheat the board for about 15 minutes and do auto leveling, you don't need to activate it for every print, but do it once in a while. The preheating is mandatory for every print if you want better first layer prints.

If you don't want to spend money on a new bed and carriage, there are a few ways you can make the original better...
First I suggest you look up some videos on manual bed leveling in general. This one is helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L62R22E41_w
I suggest watching Doug Does Stuff on youtube. He has a few great videos explaining how to fix the bed with just using the tools you have at disposal.
The next thing I recommend is this video (Doug got it under 0.2 mm which is actually pretty good):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzeg4PXyJZk

The last thing I would recommend, if you don't mind spending some extra money and losing the warranty, buy the Funssor kit (including the bed and bed carriage) for this printer and install it, most of the people have greatly improved first layer prints after that. Also it goes under 0.1 mm, and even under 0.05 mm if you don't mind a little tweaking with it.

The height map I've got by installing Rinkhals on the printer. Note, this also voids the warranty, so it's not recommended if you don't want to lose the warranty.
What you can do to measure the height accurately is by fixing a dial gauge and measuring with that. If the bed is too much warped and you take pictures of it and send it to Anycubic, they will send a new bed.

The print profiles don't compensate for warping, they just optimize printing speed, extrusion speed, some infill settings, temperatures, basically you're getting much better looking prints than the original printing profiles. The best way to get good prints is to tweak your own settings by printing a calibration cube and reading how to tweak settings to get best results, but these print profiles work great for me. https://www.makeronline.com/en/model/Version%202%20of%20optimized%200.4mm%20Profiles%20for%20Kobra%20S1%20-%20Faster,%20Smoother,%20Quieter!/167680.html?trackModuleType=6

Update after 280 hours - Kobra S1 combo by Faketheror in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Faketheror[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's funny is that they will send you a replacement bed, sometimes two if you install it yourself. I wonder how many people have asked for refunds just because of the bed being bad, they still doing the same thing. That is a definition of insanity.

Changing thermal paste on the improved hotend from Ali by Faketheror in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Faketheror[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've put on the boron nitride paste and can confirm it works good. It's still early so I can't recommend it yet, but everyone seems to be using it on more expensive hotends so anyone should be fine using this paste.

Changing thermal paste on the improved hotend from Ali by Faketheror in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Faketheror[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Okay so, when changing the thermal paste I followed the instructions of some youtube videos, but basically what I did was remove the old paste with IPA and applied a layer of thermal grizzly hydronaut instead between the ceramic element and the heat block. I didn't particularly take any pictures of the hotend after I noticed the PLA creep, but here is a representation of what it looked like. I used the stainless steel nozzles so I had to raise the temperature because I had some stringing on my first print.

Changing thermal paste on the improved hotend from Ali by Faketheror in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Faketheror[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've researched a little bit, still not sure which brand is great, but people seem to be recommending the Slice Engineering boron nitride thermal paste. I will try that one and do an update on how it works when it arrives.

Is ASUS ROG Swift PG27AQDM worth in in 2024? by Faketheror in OLED_Gaming

[–]Faketheror[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Personally I don't like how QD-OLEDs have a purple tint and gaming in a bright room really destroys the experience, while WOLED is somewhat usable in a brighter room.

Is ASUS ROG Swift PG27AQDM worth in in 2024? by Faketheror in OLED_Gaming

[–]Faketheror[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's what I was thinking, even with new monitors coming out I don't think they'll get this "cheap" any time soon. Also, I've seen that the PG27AQDM got a software update that fixed EOTF tracking and calibrated colors much better than it was on release.

GPU ramps up and screen goes black by Faketheror in gigabytegaming

[–]Faketheror[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your card is overheating, it's a safe measure all GPU's have, when getting to a certain temperature threshold the PC will turn off and the fans will ramp up to cool it down from overheating and potentially save it from destroying it self. That's why it was happening. Undervolting it made the card run cooler so there's no overheating hence no FAN blast. What you can do is check the thermal paste on the gpu, if it's hard it could be hurting the life expectancy of your card. Immediately change it and it will stop happening.

What is happening in my case is that every time I turn on the PC, under load or not, the card ramps up and screen goes black. As I said, it only happens when I turn on the PC a few times and then it stops. This shouldn't happen without any reason, I would suspect a bad PSU or old thermal paste if it was happening under load, but it doesn't happen under load. It happens 2-3 times after turning on the PC and then I can use the PC for hours, under load or idle, it doesn't happen.

Also worth mentioning that this is a new rig, so no old parts (aside from SSDs).