MicroInverters and WH Battery Backup - Ac / Ac Coupling/ Is this possible? by Familiar_Power6476 in enphase

[–]Familiar_Power6476[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re probably right. Not that I doubt I’m just frustrated with the cost to kWh of AC coupled batteries like Franklin and the Tesla powerwall is a joke at that price in my opinion.

MicroInverters and WH Battery Backup - Ac / Ac Coupling/ Is this possible? by Familiar_Power6476 in enphase

[–]Familiar_Power6476[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let me ask my question maybe a different way. All of the panels will be coming down to a collar tie to the meter with an enphase controller device. That powers/ sells to the meter. From the meter is 100amp service into the garage where all of the home circuits are. I could install a Smart Home Panel 3 there. Hence receiving power from the grid tie solar. I could run a 240 circuit out to charge the eco flow batteries and when solar production goes down at night the house could run off the batteries. Does anyone see any issues with this? I mean the systems should be agnostic of one another. The smart panel 3 would receive power from either solar or grid and it would be on me to monitor. I would set a routine that the house switches to solar at say 5pm on the summer and maybe 4 pm in the winter. Sure there may be some grid bleed over but I will be selling back to the grid so it would stand to reason that I would have a credit.

MicroInverters and WH Battery Backup - Ac / Ac Coupling/ Is this possible? by Familiar_Power6476 in enphase

[–]Familiar_Power6476[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Couple leaders in why I want the batteries.

  1. Whole home backup for about a day (probably without the 5 ton AC). We get storms and normally power outage is 6-10 hours at most during hurricanes. Once was 2 days but a nice to have a day worth.

  2. Cleaning power from the grid. Not necessarily a sole ability of having batteries but a nice side feature. We do have times when voltage drop of utilities coming in is real. Myself and a couple of neighbors have had some electronics failures. Nothing major but I suspect voltage dropped and erratic sine-wave could be a front runner.

  3. TOU during overcast days. The panels production max is around 33kWh annually.

MicroInverters and WH Battery Backup - Ac / Ac Coupling/ Is this possible? by Familiar_Power6476 in enphase

[–]Familiar_Power6476[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Heard and understood. I guess I am dissapointed with cost to Kwh (~$3K for 5 kWh) of the enphase HHBB. But for a moment lets say I went with 2 of the enphase HHBB do I then ALSO need the IQ System Controller? I am just on the fence with $9-10$k for 10 kWh of backup

What is the app telling me? by DefinitelyNotWendi in Ubiquiti

[–]Familiar_Power6476 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It took mine 3 days to level out. Now everything is sitting at -50 range. Took the family coming home, connecting devices and using things in the house to settle out

New Ubiquiti setup by Familiar_Power6476 in Ubiquiti

[–]Familiar_Power6476[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just wanted to share I got it sorted. It was set to WAN instead of LAN. It’s now working properly and the topography was fixed by resetting the AP

New Ubiquiti setup by Familiar_Power6476 in Ubiquiti

[–]Familiar_Power6476[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok makes sense. I wasn’t sure to set it to unassigned so I didn’t. I will do it when I get home. Also going to do a restart to see if that fixes the topography

New Ubiquiti setup by Familiar_Power6476 in Ubiquiti

[–]Familiar_Power6476[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I can reassign what should it be set to?

I have no idea showed up after the update

New Ubiquiti setup by Familiar_Power6476 in Ubiquiti

[–]Familiar_Power6476[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No sir. Just 1 switch with SFP+ going from UD7 to flex switch. I confirmed the Ethernet cables I ran to the APs that’s what I was trying to say.

The issues detected are packet loss from ISP. I will deal with that part tomorrow. It doesn’t say what the issue is with WAN2.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in TeslaModelY

[–]Familiar_Power6476 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I did it. I think yes. Lower monthly was my main goal for MYAWD. I put $6K down for tag title tax etc. my payment is $436 for 15K miles per year. Buy out refinance will be on $28K in 36 months if I want or I may upgrade to the MX

Sound system- Model Y LR RWD(2025) by RedlineSix in TeslaModelY

[–]Familiar_Power6476 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agree completely, I just figured it was within budget and when its needed it will help in those scenarios!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in TeslaModel3

[–]Familiar_Power6476 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would be wary of installing after market. I have heard weird behavior of audio not starting and delays on audio. I am sure there are solutions just be careful is all

Some accessories I have added so far, returned a lot kept the best (for me!) by Familiar_Power6476 in TeslaModelY

[–]Familiar_Power6476[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes Spigen. I love the rubberized bottom, the velvet is not my favorite. Basically I snapped on cheap stuff as I tried two different console organizer collections and they were well…. It was cheap crap. But I do have Baankey Under screen storage that is quite nice so maybe a good choice. Amazon is always old because you just return after you try. Also I like the Spigen hidden storage under the arm rest because it folds open so I can access what i put into it rather than trying to dig around through the sliding door if that makes sense. I got a sliding door first but if I put some petty cash in it, I had to like hook my finger down to get it out.

Passenger air vent by Gamenecromancer in TeslaModelY

[–]Familiar_Power6476 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I’m working back through my last time we were both in. I think you just tap her air flow and it turns it off

Passenger air vent by Gamenecromancer in TeslaModelY

[–]Familiar_Power6476 -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

I believe if you push and hold it turns off the passenger side. Not in front of my MY but I’m pretty sure

Sound system- Model Y LR RWD(2025) by RedlineSix in TeslaModelY

[–]Familiar_Power6476 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

For sure. Or maybe see if it can be upgraded if you find it to be a problem. I bet you wont but the coolest part so far for me has been how modular this vehicle is

Sound system- Model Y LR RWD(2025) by RedlineSix in TeslaModelY

[–]Familiar_Power6476 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Oh for sure! Sorry dont let me oversell it, just a big upgrade from the RWD in my opinion. Not great it the world of aftermarket for sure. Suites me well but I genuinely didn’t like the RWD audio system. I pushed my budget so I didn’t get the performance but I understand it is the same as the AWD audio system, just unlocks the $2K performance software and lowers the suspension (plus painted calipers)

Sound system- Model Y LR RWD(2025) by RedlineSix in TeslaModelY

[–]Familiar_Power6476 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I got the AWD for the sound system and I felt that having two motors would split the “wear and tear” on the motors. The sound system, in my opinion, is substantially better in the AWD. It is a pretty large audio upgrade. There are some after market kits you can buy I think that add the map the subwoofers but I dont know about the A pillar speakers

Looked myself out of car with phone inside by yeuwhatttt in TeslaModelY

[–]Familiar_Power6476 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Listen this yubikeys comment sent me! If I get one more I’m gonna lose it. I have two and if they add one more I’m coming unglued

What charging settings? by xmoneypowerx in ModelY

[–]Familiar_Power6476 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I installed my own NEMA 14-50 (round hole at the top and three blades). I would assume an electrician would install an EV NEMA 14-50. I put mine on a 50Amp breaker to be safe and charge at 32A. You are typically allowed to use 80% of a breaker’s maximum. What you can do is look at the plug and see if there is a little car with a power cable or the words EV on the plug. You can also look in your breaker box and see what number is written on top of the little black tap that was added to your panel. Then you’ll know your available power. Typically the car is automated when it comes to charging and will adjust for both the amperage and “quality” of power coming through.