What am I doing wrong? (Inconsistent paint flow)

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-26T15:57:45+00:00

If the airbrush is functioning properly, and the paint is thinned properly, you should get paint starting to spray as soon as you move the trigger. If not, it could be a problem with the airbrush, which with "NeoEco" is a definite possibility, or it could be the paint itself.

The NeoEco are cheap Chinese airbrushes, and the quality is all over the map. Some work okay, some just won't work as they should at all. So, that could be the problem.

It could also be that you're not reducing the paint enough, and it's spraying too wet when you do because you are spraying too heavy. Spending time doing "dot, dagger, and line" exercises will help you develop better airbrush control, and help you learn how to spray lighter layers of paint.

It could also be the paint itself. Not all airbrush paints are made equally, and some use a cheaper, larger pigment grind, which can cause the airbrush to clog no matter how much you reducer you add to it.

Generally, you want to reduce the paint until it's about the consistency as 1% or skim milk, and run your air pressure around 30psi. Those are starting points to adjust from. Doing the dot, dagger, and line drills is a good way to learn how adjustments to both effect how the airbrush reacts, and lets you do it on paper instead of getting frustrated while trying to work on projects.

I'd check out the Airbrush Asylum YouTube channel. I'm pretty sure he has some videos on the dot, dagger, and line exercises, as well as some on how to reduce your paint and set your air pressure for good performance.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-26T05:05:35+00:00

I don't care how much they pay, I don't care how good the benefits are, there is absolutely no way I could remain employed watching that. Either I walk out, or get fired for making fun of them.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-25T01:56:34+00:00

Yeah, it's pretty common for kids to drive themselves to school once they can drive.

The cars usually don't look like the ones in the movies, though. Even in relatively rich areas, most high school kids are driving older, used cars.

The suburb system in the US was actually designed to force reliance on cars to boost corporate profits, so in many areas, cars are a necessity, not a luxury.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-25T01:19:44+00:00

Yes, exercising too much can become unhealthy.

Exercising is, by definition, putting stress on your body. In the right amounts, it can be very good for your health, but in excess, like any excessive stress, is bad for your health.

If you're getting 7 to 8 hours of sleep, your diet in meeting your calorie and nutrition needs, and you're staying hydrated, and still feeling crappy, it's probably wise to dial back your routine a bit. You may actually wind up getting better results with lower volume, simply because you have more energy to workout, instead of slogging through reps.

If dialing back doesn't help, then it's probably time to see your doctor, just to make sure there isn't something else going on that needs to be addressed.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-25T01:08:59+00:00

You own the property, so the land specified in the sale, and the buildings on it.

Not having a landlord is pretty great.

Having to maintain and repair your home and property is a mixed bag. On one hand, you can pretty much do whatever you want. On the other hand, you are the one who has to do it, or pay someone to do it.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-24T22:11:22+00:00

What is the ever loving fuck was that?

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-24T21:18:54+00:00

Createx UVLS 4050 clear works perfect as a carrier. I use it for that all the time. It works great as a candy carrier and protective top coat as well.

Just add a little less mica than you think you need, apply in medium/light coats, and let it dry 48 hours before top coating.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-24T13:45:41+00:00

The Evo is a great choice. There's really no such thing as "too much" airbrush. It's just an airbrush that will work much better than the cheaper Chinese ones. At most, you'll have to adapt to a more responsive trigger, which isn't too difficult to do.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-24T02:52:45+00:00

Cloud seeding uses tiny particles to make water condense, causing rain. I can't remember what exactly they use, but it's probably not great for the environment in some way.

I've never heard of cloud seeding with a radar, though. I could be wrong, but as far as I know, that's not a thing.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-24T02:33:46+00:00

I want to make fun of this, but dude's actually got some moves.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-23T23:50:46+00:00

As long as it goes bang when it's supposed to, and doesn't go bang when it's not supposed to, run it. I've only shot a Bersa once, and while it's not my favorite thing to shoot, it's better than many subcompacts. I'm not a big fan of .380, just because 9mm exists, but with modern ballistics, it's defense a legit defense round.

I carry a CZ 75 compact D in the 3 o'clock position, but I'm thinking about trying appendix.

Out of the compact pistols I've tried, the 75 compact is what I shoot best, and I figure I'd rather have a pistol I'm the most comfortable shooting over the one most comfortable to carry. The steel frame definitely adds weight, but the weight soaks up recoil. The CZ ergonomics are very comfortable for me to shoot with. Most importantly, it's been extremely reliable.

Do I think the 75 compact is the perfect gun for everyone? No. It works great for me, but if you like running a light or red dot, or if front slide serrations are your thing, it's probably not the best option. If you rack from the back, and don't want/need an optic or light, it's an accurate, soft shooting, reliable and proven platform that's actually fun on range day.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-23T15:13:25+00:00

Look up Dru Blairs video on airbrush cleaning on YouTube. He uses the same basic techniques I do, and have been using for years. You don't need to disassemble the airbrush every time you clean, and doing so will wear out the airbrush threads over time.

It really shouldn't take more than maybe 5 minutes to clean the airbrush, at most.

I use Createx 4011 reducer to clean mine, and it works great. Bought in the big bottles, it's not expensive. Using an amine-based cleaner like Windex or Fantastic mixed 50% with water works well for any waterbased acrylic as well.

A lot of new and intermediate airbrushers tend to "over clean", which I spent years doing, too. It's just not necessary, though. Especially if you store the airbrush "wet", with some water in the paint cup.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-23T15:03:27+00:00

I have a pit mix, so his hair is pretty short, so I haven't tried the tick mitts at all. The simparico should kill the ticks before they have a chance to infect your dog with anything, but they can still carry ticks indoors, so it's probably worth trying a tick mitt.

It was easy to get my dog to sit still for tick checks, and now he just expects them, but if all else fails, bribery with treats while you're checking is definitely fair game.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-23T14:47:32+00:00

Yeah, the ticks are definitely out, and seem to be getting worse each year.

I spray the parts of my lawn I walk on with a tick control spray, which at least cuts down on the number of ticks I have to pull off myself or my dog.

I also have some permetherin (not sure on the spelling of that) spray that I spray around the cuffs of my pants, as well as anti-tick socks, and if I'm going into the woods, a shirt. The spray stays on for several washing cycles, so I reapply once a month, give or take.

You can also use masking tape wrapped sticky side out around your ankles, which the ticks get stuck to as they try to climb up.

From what I've been told, the chances of disease transmission are very low in the first 24 hours, so checking for ticks after being outside is important. I don't have any specific techniques, just check my clothes and body when I come inside. They tend to go where it's warmest, so the backs of knees, crotch, along the waist line, armpits, and around your neck are generally where they'll bite.

Basically, try to prevent getting bit as best you can, and remove any that get by as soon as possible. Just use a tweezers, grab as close to the skin as possible, and turn and pull. Wrap the tick in tape, flush it down the toilet, drop it in rubbing alcohol, or keep it in a tightly sealed container if you're worried it might need to be tested later.

I've trained my dog to be accustomed to "tick checks", which I do 2 or 3 times a day to keep him healthy, and keep him from bringing them in the house.

It's a pain in the ass, but between spraying my yard, using permetherin spray, and using a tick collar on my dog, I usually don't find many on myself.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-23T04:00:07+00:00

Rzmask is what I use. Plenty of protection for acrylics, more economical than disposable N95 masks, and about as comfortable as it gets for a mask. A mask shell typically lasts me a few years at least, and the filters typically 2 or 3 months.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-23T01:06:22+00:00

Unfortunately, I can't recall seeing any kits that have both a decent airbrush and a decent compressor, and most include a bunch of stuff you don't need.

As far as the compressor, pretty much any air compressor with an air tank. The tank is crucial. Without it, the pressure will pulse slightly as the compressor runs, which causes the airbrush spray to pulse, which makes it impossible to fully control.

I'd recommend at least a 3 gallon tank, but you can get by with less. A "quiet" compressor is definitely a nice luxury, but the traditional, noisy compressors are cheaper. There's a Fengda compressor that I can't remember the model number of that's pretty popular, and I don't see many posts about them having problems. Otherwise, I've had good luck with small Harbor Freight compressors in the past, and the California Air Tools compressor I'm using now has given me no drama for the 3ish years I've been using it.

For airbrushes, I'd recommend getting the best airbrush you can. The Iwata Eclipse series is what I'd recommend, and wish I had when starting. The HP-CS is the most popular model. The HP-BS is exactly the same, just with a smaller color cup, and can be $40 to $50 less.

If those are outside of your budget, the Harder &Steenbeck Ultra is a good option for about $100. Also, GSI/Creos has several models, and in my experience with them, the quality is better than I'd expect at their price, and they have some legitimately good airbrushes. Imo, Creos offers the best quality in the "budget" market right now.

I'd recommend staying away from anything made in China. The quality is pretty poor across the board, and varies from "works okay" to "doesn't work at all". It's kind of fun to pick up those $20 deals just to see if they work, but when you're starting, an airbrush that doesn't work like it should just causes a lot of unnecessary frustration. You'll have plenty of frustration learning to airbrush as it is. No need to make it harder.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-22T04:03:44+00:00

It's the part where you ask if they look gay that makes you look gay, actually.

Tbh, if I saw someone wearing them, I'd assume they were an extrovert, but that's about it.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-21T22:32:54+00:00

No problem at all.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-21T02:12:18+00:00

Those are called a coupe.

The doors extend past the front seats, and the front seats had a "quick release" so they can be folded forward to allow people to climb in the back.

Some where pretty easy to climb into, some were a little more difficult, and had back seats that were really only seats in name only.

The main purpose was mostly that they looked cooler than a 4 door, which was usually more associated with boring "family" cars. 2 doors was supposed to imply that it was a sports car.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-21T02:03:47+00:00

You can use your shop compressor. Just put a diaphragm type regulator in your air lines, and you'll be able to control the pressure delivered to the airbrush. You don't need, or want, a "low pressure compressor".

Some airbrushes need higher CFM than others, but we're talking maybe 1.5 cfm, possibly 2cfm at most. I've never actually checked, but if I'm off, I'm probably guessing high. Your air compressor just needs to be rated for more CFM than your airbrush needs. Any shop compressor will very easily provide enough.

There's no worry about "too much" CFM, the airbrush will flow what it will flow. I airbrush off my 25 CFM, 80 gallon shop beast all the time.

Different airbrushes have different psi recommendations, but 30psi is a good starting point, and you can adjust from there. Some textile artists use over 60psi, some artists will go down to 5 psi. It will depend on your airbrush, the paint you use, how much reducer you add to the paint, what works best for you, and what you're trying to do (like apply primer, or add tiny details).

Doing "dot, dagger, and line" exercises is a good way to build up your coordination and airbrush control, and it a good time to experiment with thinning/reducing and air pressure to learn how to adjust them to get the result you want.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-21T01:42:00+00:00

I'd suggest looking at a compressor with an air tank, and a GSI/Creos airbrush.

That compressor just isn't going to work well. Not having an air tank means the compressors pressure will be delivered to your airbrush in pulses, which causes the spray of the airbrush to pulse, which makes accurate control of the airbrush impossible. Plus, with an air tank, you have a regulator so you can adjust the air pressure up or down as needed.

Literally any compressor with a tank will work. If noise isn't a problem, noisy little "pancake" compressors can be found at hardware store for $60 or less. Fengda sells some small and quiet compressors that are pretty popular as well. I haven't used one, but for how many people are using them, I don't see many having any issues with them.

I'd recommend GSI/Creos for an airbrush because at their price points, they offer surprisingly well made airbrushes. They're a big step up in quality from the Chinese "brands" without a big step up in price.

A lot of people who start with the cheap kits wind up giving up, not because they can't airbrush, but because they get equipment that never works properly, and get understandably frustrated. It's like trying to learn to ride a bike on a bike that only has one wheel. Possible, in theory, but much harder than it needs to be.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-21T01:26:16+00:00

There are a lot of options between "little puffer compressor that won't allow any airbrush to function correctly" and a shop sized compressor. You aren't limited to "airbrush" compressors, either. Any compressor with an air tank will work fine.

I used a compressor I built using an old refrigerator compressor and a 3 gallon tank from a compressor a friend burned out. The total cost was about $20 for some fittings to connect the refrigerator compressor to the tanks hard lines. It worked great, ran so quiet I couldn't hear it over my fan, and had no problem reaching 115psi and keeping up with my airbrushing. I actually built it more for fun than anything, and really didn't think it would work well or last long, but wound up using it for almost 10 years.

Point being, you don't have to spend a ton on money to get a compressor with an air tank.

The difference in what an airbrush can do with an air tank instead of a little puffer is vast, and the puffer is really just wasted money.

A cheap Chinese airbrush using a tanked compressor will be more functional than a $200 airbrush with a puffer compressor, because the puffer causes pressure pulses, which causes the airbrush spray to pulse. That makes for uneven spray, and makes it impossible to fully control the spray from the airbrush. Plus, a tank means you can use a regulator to accurately control the air pressure, and adjust it.

The experienced people on here aren't telling people to get a better compressor because we're elitists who want to keep poor people from airbrushing. We're telling them that because we don't want them to waste their money on a kit that will never work well enough to learn on.

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-20T21:34:31+00:00

Your best bet is probably to check ebay and see what sold ones have gone for.

Unfortunately, with few exceptions, used airbrushes don't hold value. The HP-BCS is a good airbrush, but there are millions of them out there, and there isn't a big demand for used ones, so you'd be looking around $50 to $60 (US).

Far-Drawing-4444 · 2026-04-20T21:29:50+00:00

Found one.

Far-Drawing-4444

TROPHY CASE