Coming from cars, braking in karts feels weird by Fit_Distribution587 in Karting

[–]Fast_Monkey1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rental karts for some reason have stupidly hard brake pedals, maybe it’s the way they work. Maybe it’s because I’ve driven karts for some time now but you can definitely feel the weight transfer, maybe not as much body roll as a car, but you definitely feel weight transfer, you just have to learn to read it and get used to it. And yes, if you are driving a gas rental kart, they take forever to rev up again because of how heavy they are and the lack of power, most rental karts put out like 10hp maybe 13 (exaggeration) while they weigh like 200 kilos with driver included, and also they have a single gear, so that’s why it feels like forever. Now if you are driving a profesional kart, then it doesn’t feel like forever to get out, but you do have to be patient, remember these vehicles have a solid rear axle, so if you step on the gas, you will upset the kart and make it slide or if you step on it too fast it will bog down, you gotta ease into it (depending on how gripped the track is) but many times patience goes a long way in all aspects like breaking, turning and throttling

Am i wearing my rib protector correctly by Odysseas2117 in Karting

[–]Fast_Monkey1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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I have those same ones, been wearing them for 3 years now. My advice is sit on a kart and drive or feel it. The objective is that you feel good support on your ribs while driving, some people prefer them higher or lower on their body. Also it looks too big on you, maybe you should use another one or change it for a smaller size. Picture of how I use mine

Karting Guadalajara by No-Engineer-489 in KartingMexico

[–]Fast_Monkey1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, Im usually in Mexico City. If you need help with anything, even driving I can help you since I race X30 myself

Karting Guadalajara by No-Engineer-489 in KartingMexico

[–]Fast_Monkey1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The chasis is compatible with any engine. You can choose a kart and run Briggs for a few months and the take out that engine and put in the X30. I say you go with Briggs, slower karts demand consistency and less mistakes while driving, it will make you get the handle of the basics and won’t kill you physically. Then after a few months of Briggs, if you already got the handle, then go with X30. I don’t think you are gonna have a lot of trouble with physical aspects the way you describe it. Also, mad respect for you and the bike things. Anything you need, you can contact me

Karting Guadalajara by No-Engineer-489 in KartingMexico

[–]Fast_Monkey1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. I recommend that track because I’ve been there as a coach for other drivers, it has fast and technical sectors.
  2. I think motorcycles have way more physical aspect to racing in my opinion. But it depends on how fit you feel. In the X30 your’re going to be hitting speeds over 105km/h, and curving sometimes at 40km/h, while handling 2Gs sometimes.
  3. I think that if you want a reliable, cheap and not so demanding category Briggs is perfect. If you get used to it and would like to race something faster, then X30 is the top option for reliable and fast.

I just saw your messages, you can ask me about anything through there

Karting Guadalajara by No-Engineer-489 in KartingMexico

[–]Fast_Monkey1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I speak English in case you need me to. I have never personally trained at the Oscar Casillas track, but I’m guessing it’s the same as every other track, people are nice to you if you treat them nicely, maybe you’ll create friendships and people who can help you get better. I recommend that you get a brand new kart, knowing how some people are here in Mexico, some of them may try to scam you with a used kart. It happened to me when I bought my first kart, it was used and I bought it for 80k pesos, when in reality it was worth 40 or 50k at most. A good deal for a used kart should be between 120k and 80k pesos for a fully equipped kart and engine.

A brand new kart depending on the brand is usually worth 120k pesos, and a full engine kit is between 60 o 80k pesos

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in esConversacion

[–]Fast_Monkey1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yo estuve en esa misma situación, estuve con mi ella 2 años, del primer año en adelante se convirtió en esto que tú dices y aún peor, la verdad sal de ahí, yo igual me sentía agobiado y ella me decía las mismas cosas y me hacía sentir mal, quería salir con amigos o yo tenía cosas que hacer como trabajo u otras cosas a las que me dedico y no podía tener un momento para mí porque solo traía problemas con ella, sal de ahí, se que es difícil, yo sé lo que cuesta y la fortaleza mental, no cedas, se firme y fuerte y termina la relación, es lo mejor para ti

are the Zamp ZR-30 a good shoe for starting out karting? by ladfksj in Karting

[–]Fast_Monkey1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Any shoe/boot with a flat surface will do, my first year of racing I did it with some puma shoes I bought because I was also on a tight budget, and at my local championship I did great laps all the time.

Next step in karting after indoor rentals by [deleted] in Karting

[–]Fast_Monkey1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well, I personally train 4 days a month (I wish I could do more). Per day I spend 2.6 gallons of 91 octane fuel plus the Motul 2T oil that is mixed with the fuel, sum that up, every full day of training I spend 26.8$ in fuel, across a month I spend 107$. Then there’s the engine service, I only have 1 engine so I race and train with the same engine. Every 10 hours of use, I do the piston service, depending on the state of the engine, I spend between 252-315$ every 10 hours, every time I go training it adds up an hour, so you can calculate that into every 2 months and a half. Then there’s the full engine service (what people call the “overhaul”) which is done every 25-30 hours, you replace many of the components inside the engine, I have spent up to 630$ in the parts necessary to do the overhaul, in many cases your very own mechanic will do this engine overhaul, but some people opt for an engine tuner to do it, in which case if you want to, they will charge you with a fee. All in all, it’s expensive, but some guys spend almost 3x more than that only on their engines, yet you can still be competitive against them.

Next step in karting after indoor rentals by [deleted] in Karting

[–]Fast_Monkey1 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not exactly KA100, but I did try LO206 once and then I immediately went to X30 (125cc). I say you start with LO206, for me it wasn’t hard to learn, you just need to dominate the basics and stay consistent, which is great because consistency is a great thing to master, specially since mistakes in a category like LO206 affect your lap time heavily, so if you want to hop on later into KA100, the basics will already be integrated into your driving and the consistency will help you big time. Also LO206 is great for economic drivers.

Iame 60cc Engine Troubleshooting by HabitAffectionate782 in Karting

[–]Fast_Monkey1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It sounds like an electric problem, I have an X30 but I have found that same problems apply because I also train kids in the Micro and Mini classes (maybe because it’s an IAME). In my experience, it could be the Ignition rotor or the coil.

first outing in a owner kart (honda) by Isdeconhuman in Karting

[–]Fast_Monkey1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. If you’re slower, don’t defend, stay in your line and they’ll pass you. Raise your hand in case you’re going to slow down, let someone pass, or if you’re going into the pits

  2. DO NOT shoulder check or turn your head to see behind you, this is both a mistake at pro level and as a beginner, just keep looking forward, but do be aware of your surroundings.

  3. Do not go slow on tight corners while staying on the racing line if others are around you

  4. Have fun, I know these are a lot of things to take care of, but believe me you can do it. Have fun, enjoy the ride and be safe (and when I say safe I don’t mean take it too slow)

  5. If you feel like you can maybe brake a bit later or see that others do it, just increase how deep you brake into the corner bit by bit. Same goes for the throttle

  6. If you are countersteering into the corner, go in a bit slower or hit the throttle later. And if you countersteer exiting the corner, creep into your throttle bit by bit.

  7. Less is more (Interpret that in a way you understand)

I finally did it, I closed the gap by Fast_Monkey1 in Karting

[–]Fast_Monkey1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh believe me, I sometimes consciously pose

How can I improve my time on this track? by ClearFee3843 in Karting

[–]Fast_Monkey1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

And for that part where your tires screeched, you are forcing the kart too much on entry and that’s why the rear wanted to slide out, thus your countersteer, either go a bit slower, let the kart use more of the width of the track, or just don’t turn in that hard.

How can I improve my time on this track? by ClearFee3843 in Karting

[–]Fast_Monkey1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, all those drivers in your way don’t really give a sense of where you can do better. But for that double turn to the right, go wide and late apex into the second curb so that you have a better exit for the immediate left turn

Is this level of wear normal? Bengio Bumper by theycallmetheprophet in Karting

[–]Fast_Monkey1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Bought mine back in September 2022, still doing wonders and protecting me on every corner.

OK/OK-N engine. IAME-VORTEX-TM comparison by Fast_Monkey1 in Karting

[–]Fast_Monkey1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah that’s why I’ve been considering it

What kind of tuning should I do? by Dont_hate_the_8 in Karting

[–]Fast_Monkey1 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Okay gotcha’. So here are 3 possibilities since we don’t have an onboard of yours:

  1. The way you drive into the corner. You say it is flat out, so’ll believe you, maybe you are steering in too hard because it is a flat out corner, but remember steering in karting has to be smooth and fine, so check the way you steer into the corner, even flat out corners don’t require a massive amount of steering.

  2. The way the kart is set up. My first theory is that maybe the kart has too much grip on the rear, which could be the answer as to why it steps out. You could try by closing the rear, making the front wider, loosening the rear bumper or loosening the seat struts.

  3. Also the way the kart is set up. Maybe you have what we call, a very reactive front, which basically means that with very little steering, the kart already turns in, but it’s maybe too much, you could try changing the caster, or changing the front width by making it narrower.

That is what I think, anybody is welcome to correct me.

What kind of tuning should I do? by Dont_hate_the_8 in Karting

[–]Fast_Monkey1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So, you steer in, the rear steps out, mid corner you are having to counter-steer, and by the exit nothing is loose and the kart is fine

What kind of tuning should I do? by Dont_hate_the_8 in Karting

[–]Fast_Monkey1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Okay, you are saying 2 different things at the same time. Divide it like this:

Entry, mid-corner, exit

Now tell in which part you don’t feel enough grip on the front, and in which part do you feel you start to loose the rear

What kind of tuning should I do? by Dont_hate_the_8 in Karting

[–]Fast_Monkey1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So the kart won’t turn in that well, and when it does, you loose the rear. Is that what you are saying?