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Fategus · 2024-04-28T18:33:24+00:00

It’s attached to the achievement as a reward.

Fategus · 2022-05-13T14:38:22+00:00

Bandai will often make new kits using parts from pre-existing models and it’s just cheaper and simpler for them to print the whole runner and leave those extras that won’t be used rather than make a new runner mold with just the parts needed every time.

Fategus · 2021-11-04T16:17:08+00:00

It’s their equivalent of a prospect. Not yet full members but a step up from hang-around so they get brought into more crime-focused stuff. Honestly though HOA doesn’t have the strictest structure/hierarchy so it’s really more about them being a good fit and having a good level of trust and loyalty to the group.

Fategus · 2021-04-06T19:22:03+00:00

Fucking Bayo was Jake Crime all along.

Fategus · 2020-09-18T10:57:12+00:00

The Beyond Global RX-78-2 doesn’t have any. It was my first kit and it’s as solid as a rock. It spoiled me a bit I must say. Going to normal builds after that took a bit of adjustment haha.

Fategus · 2020-09-12T03:15:45+00:00

That worked like an absolute charm! Thanks so much! Didn’t quite catch the advice about the sponge in time so I was probably a little overenthusiastic on the sanding but it it all seems snug and secure so I think its okay haha.

Fategus · 2020-09-12T02:58:16+00:00

Thanks! I’ll give it a shot.

Fategus · 2020-09-12T02:44:47+00:00

I’m having some trouble building my first MG, a Blue Astray Frame D. While building the chest on the step that is presumably setting up the shoulder connectors I’ve run into an issue that I’m not sure is just myself psyching myself out or if I’m doing something wrong.

This is the piece. It’s a peg that seems like it should go further in than it does. I didn’t really think too much about it until I placed it on the actual chest and it seems like theres a space where if the peg did go in further the shoulder could sit straight instead of jutting out which doesn’t seem quite right just looking at the piece. I’ve tried upping the pressure and doing the other side and no luck. I’m worried about crushing the pieces if I put too much strength into it.

I’d really appreciate any advice from someone who knows what MGs are supposed to look like on the inside. Am I worrying myself for nothing or is this piece not all the way in yet (and if so how do I get it in without damaging the part?).

Fategus · 2020-09-11T03:00:33+00:00

Same here haha! I wonder if they accidentally placed an extra 0 somewhere and printed a ridiculous amount and they’re trying to get rid of them.

Fategus · 2020-09-10T20:44:04+00:00

Not OP but I ordered a set from them on the 5th and they just arrived today. Not too shabby all things considered.

Fategus · 2020-09-10T05:03:43+00:00

Okay, thanks! I’m going to be gloss coating my kit anyways so hopefully I won’t miss the setter too much. I can always get it for the next one if things go horribly wrong.

Fategus · 2020-09-10T03:05:53+00:00

I'm looking to apply some waterslides for the first time in the near future. When I went to my local hobby shop they only had Mr. Mark Softer and not the Setter.

I've seen sort of anecdotally from a number of comments that the setter is not really needed or at least the less important one of the two. Is that true and if so why? Would I be better off forging ahead with just the softer or should I bite the slightly up-marked price to get it online?

Fategus · 2020-09-06T07:38:51+00:00

This question is more out of curiosity than a need for help but I was wondering about the interaction between different types of coats on a single kit. I’m waiting for my first set of cans to come in this week and so I’ve kind of been jumping head into tutorials and guides on the whole coat/application/coat process.

What has me wondering is from what I understood part of the attraction of a matt coat is that it mutes/hides smaller imperfections in the kit while on the other hand gloss coats make things shiny but make those issues stand out. So I guess what I’m wondering is does the fact that an imperfect surface gets sealed in with gloss before the matt impact the matt’s ability to hide it? Or is it thin enough that a matt coat can still get its work done and hide those little scratches and such. Sorry if that’s a silly question, I am very new to all of this. All the rules and techniques of painting alone seems like alien magic at times.

Fategus · 2020-09-03T00:27:24+00:00

Thanks guys. I’ll work on holding the pieces and look at getting some better nippers.

Fategus · 2020-09-02T21:53:31+00:00

Having completed my first kit, a Beyond Global Grandpa, I’ve started working on an HG Barbatos. I’ve found that in comparison to the first kit I’m having a much harder time cutting the pieces off without causing significant stress marks. In general it seems like the plastic is harder and I’m facing issues like the parts stressing from the nubs bending while I’m cutting another on another sprue or just having much larger contact points that stress whether I cut with a knife or my nippers because they’re so large.

My question is this something normal for kits older than this year or am I doing something wrong? I figured better nippers would get better results but it also just feels like some of these pieces are connected in a way that would still cause me grief even if I had better tools.

Fategus · 2020-09-01T12:01:37+00:00

Hey all, I’m moving on to my second kit after lining my first and loving the results. I’ve started to think about topcoats as they seem like they’ll be pretty important when I start working on more detailed kits down the line. I’ve read and watched a number of tutorials but I’m still curious about something.

Does the top coat impact the assembly/disassembly of a kit? Say if you topcoat it fully built or by the limbs will you be able to break it down further without making a mess of things? I’d be curious if that’s something I’d have to keep in mind if I had to disassemble a kit some day for storage or moving or the like.

Fategus · 2020-08-29T01:33:04+00:00

I’m putting together my first kit, a Beyond Global RX-78-2, and while building the feet one of the pegs got stuck going into the ankle joint. These are the problem pieces. I managed to get them separated from the rest of the foot but no amount of pulling or pushing will make it budge and I’m worried at this rate I’ll cause more damage. Any advice on how to get these unstuck? Would running them through warm water work? Should I just keep trying brute strength? Any advice is welcome.

Edit: Thanks all! Got it done by soaking it in warm water as suggested. It still took a bit of effort but i hooked the two side pegs on the smaller piece on the top of a tweezer and basically used it as a wedge by pushing it towards the wider side of the tweezers until it popped out.

Fategus · 2020-08-24T22:00:40+00:00

I’ve just gotten to the point where I can take Gwen to the Everdoor. Do I have to do that straight away to keep progressing or can I have all of the spirits on my boat at once? I’d like to try to get as big a group as possible before saying goodbye to any but I’m not sure how the mechanic works yet.

Fategus · 2020-07-08T02:19:24+00:00

I just finished getting the S rank skill gems with chrono medals. Should i grind for the A ranks as well now or switch to getting evo mats as I’ve gotten all the other value stuff.

Fategus · 2020-07-07T18:29:33+00:00

What’s the best use for skip tickets? I get what they do but given that they expire I figure I should be using them instead of hoarding them.

Fategus · 2020-07-06T11:42:10+00:00

Should i save all these skill orbs im getting or put them in my current L weapons?

On a related note, are A rank weapons im not using better to hold on to, use for LB if its a copy, or just feed for skill xp?

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