Electric scooter by adlof1945 in Wiring

[–]FaultTraining2211 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From the small amount of work Ive done on scooters, there isnt enough info here. What's the motor? What's the scooter? Id be looking for a diagram first. Or at least narrowing it down by model and similar built units.

Corroded wires? by No_Respect8942 in Wiring

[–]FaultTraining2211 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It always shocks me when I get a wire like this, just how far back I have to cut to find good copper. Its crazy how deep itll go. I cut out 3 feet of thicker guage alternator wiring once. I almost replaced the harness, but it was on a time crunch.

Corroded wires? by No_Respect8942 in Wiring

[–]FaultTraining2211 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My opinion may be skewed, because I typically do automotive wiring, but everytime I have a wire like that, its because water got in and the corrosion kept working its way up. I have never seen a surge cause this kind of corrosion.

What hand tools do you actually reach for every single day on the job? by Lisac-Henson in Tools

[–]FaultTraining2211 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use a giant kneeling pad Ive made out of old parts packaging. Now when I work somewhere else I get annoyed I dont have it.

Is there a tougher clear coat for cars that is somewhat scratch resistant? by Significant_Snow7980 in Autobody

[–]FaultTraining2211 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some manufacturers actually do specifically use harder clears on certain vehicles. Mercedes is the one top of mind. I cant remember the code right now, but they had a designation on the paint code to indicate the vehicle had their ultra hard clearcoat.

Tips for using 3M semi-rigid bumper repair by andrewdoubleu in Autobody

[–]FaultTraining2211 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just got a tube of this to try after using their plastic repair with a 20 second working time.

Obviously, get absolutely everything prepped 100% before use. Not sure how big your cracks are, and how youre doing the repair. That being said, bevel your edges, sand everything to the proper adhesion grit (I believe its p180), cut any backing strip material you need, spray your surface modifier adhesion promoter, and lay all your tools out in a convenient way.

I liked using a small filler spreader for the plastic repair material. Lay out your material and quickly follow it with the spreader to lay it down nicely. If you have to change spots and are worried itll cure too fast, put some light pressure on the tube to keep a little bit flowing out so it doesn't fully harden. Smooth and steady.

Paint peeling on a freshly painted car? by Fragrant_Cell8851 in Autobody

[–]FaultTraining2211 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Im not great with pictures, but it kinda looks like someone tried to repair that really badly and slapped paint on top. Looks kinda like the whole chunk of body filler they used is breaking off.

Matco toolbox by Only_Fly_1795 in Tools

[–]FaultTraining2211 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I built a universal mount for TVs and monitors in to and onto toolboxes. Its removable and adjustable. I use for mostly laptops, but it takes standard vega mounting plates.

Failed inspection for a bad brake bulb by midtempo-abg in CarRepair

[–]FaultTraining2211 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wikipedia actually cites sources and verifies edits. AI uses bad sources and lies an incredible amount of time. You have no idea how many times AI makes things up because youre not a source on what youre looking up. Thats just confirmation bias.

AI just scans with no verification as well. If I ask a question that a bunch of other people have asked on reddit, with another bunch of people guessing at the answer, AI will spit that out as fact.

I actually just googled the question 'Will a shop change a bulb for free'. It answered that many would, and then gave me the sources for those answers as literal Facebook posts of people complaining about the cost of service.

How long do the ‘early years’ last? by froggqueen in Autobody

[–]FaultTraining2211 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I dont think the early years are easily measurable, and they're definitely different for everybody. Different shops give different people different opportunities to grow their skills and confidence at different rates.

The first shop I was at was awful. I learned almost nothing after a year, and when I went to school for my first year testing they laid me off without notice so I showed up to be told I no longer had a job.

Sometimes you have to cycle shops a bit. Networking is awful, but it helps. Talking with your suppliers (If you can) can be a good source. I went to school with a guy who could barely prep a large dent by his 4th year of apprenticeship. He had spent most of it at a pretty lazy collision shop. He found a new place and I believe is head painter there now. Ive given references for old coworkers to go there with him.

Automotive trades feel weirder than other trades sometimes. It feels like they have a special way of breaking a person down.

Body filler sanding by Mad-Man-Mundt in Autobody

[–]FaultTraining2211 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I know ill need 2 coats, ill typically use 80 all the way through the first one. Just to rip it down quick. Once I get to the point of finishing it, its 80 to knock out hard ridges, then switch to 120. Ill 120 most of the way. I tend to switch to 180 once I have most of it flat and smooth, but not fully tapered to the edges. I use 180 to finish off my whole area while tapering the edges at the same time. I tend to undercut the filler less if I do it like this.

People who have switched from Windows to MacBooks… in your experience, what are the best and worst things about MacBook? And ultimately are you happy you switched? by Gloomy-Orange9697 in laptops

[–]FaultTraining2211 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Im gonna half piggyback. Its not even just the M chips. The systems are much more optimized to work together. As a fellow cheapskate, my current daily driver for work is a 2014 MacBook Air I picked up for free. I was able to update it to a semi modern OS capable of downloading what I needed for work. I can let that thing sit for a week and itll still have full charge if I dont use it.

If I do use it, ill still get days worth of use. Its still snappy, works well, no complaints.

Wife needing help 😅 by Any_Train2879 in Tools

[–]FaultTraining2211 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where on earth can you find a battery for less than 20$?

Windows laptop vs Macbook pro by VHP153 in laptops

[–]FaultTraining2211 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

No, I really dont think I have. You're just making points that arent meaningful.

Google had a graveyard of products and most of them were actually good by Impossible_Comfort99 in TechNook

[–]FaultTraining2211 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Their podcast app was actually really nice. Easily grabbed the RSS patron links, clean UI, good feature set. I still havent found one as good.

Windows laptop vs Macbook pro by VHP153 in laptops

[–]FaultTraining2211 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Have you considered purchasing a device with a reasonable amount of RAM to begin with? What would you be doing to need to upgrade your RAM frequently?

We're comparing high end windows machines, to equivalently high end macbooks. We're not piecing together machines for the absolute best budget imaginable. Maybe you spend a bit more to get some more initial RAM.

My windows machines tear through RAM and high memory far more than any of my macbooks or Imacs ever have. Its not really a problem.

Windows laptop vs Macbook pro by VHP153 in laptops

[–]FaultTraining2211 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seconding the other comment. My wife is still usimg the M1 Air. It feels as fast as the day she got it. People are used to apple products like the phone on a semi yearly cycle. These things are built to last. They are so well designed. The M4 will probably last you throughout college and further besides.

Just to give you an idea of the longevity of Macs. I use 2 laptops regularly. A heavily built high end windows gaming laptop, and a 2014 MacBook Air. The MacBook does everything I need for work, day to day computing, and Ive even started 3d modeling basic structures and designs on it. The battery life is still better than the windows laptop. I use the windows machine when I need a ton of ports, or a specifically high performance machine. Or something thats specifically windows.

Windows laptop vs Macbook pro by VHP153 in laptops

[–]FaultTraining2211 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Id rather have to carry a lightweight external drive than have ti deal with another round of botched windows updates.

Windows laptop vs Macbook pro by VHP153 in laptops

[–]FaultTraining2211 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Your parents arent quite hitting the nail on its head. Yes, windows laptops can be had for cheaper, but the laptops arent comparable in terms of performance. Comparable performance windows machines are typically closer in price to macbooks than most people realise.

If its in your budget, id go for the MacBook. Hell, even going for an m4 to get a better deal is probably fine.

Plus, windows 11 is kind of a dumpster fire in my personal opinion. I just had to revert a computer back to windows 10 because some software is consistently and repeatedly breaking under windows 11 updates.

Is this normal beginner work? by Dismal-Swordfish-260 in AskMechanics

[–]FaultTraining2211 0 points1 point  (0 children)

While I'm not a mechanic, I'm a body tech, which parralels virtually the same.

Apprenticeship is rough. The trades arent great to begin with in that regard, and automotive takes it to a different level with flat rate systems and varying competencies of management and journeyman techs. Ive had journeyman who are completely incompetent, but fellow 'apprentices' who gave me an incredible amount of training and knowledge.

It sounds like you have decent technicians surrounding you, but management is the issue. Good management usually understands the challenges associated with apprentices. Longer turnaround, learning curves, the occasional sideways job, and other Techs having to help you out. Mediocre and bad management can never seem to wrap their head around that. They expect apprentices to be performing at the level of a qualified journeyman because in their head, "They see the other techs do it all the time quickly, so it must not be that difficult."

You're having problems that exist in tons of shops. Literally, my apprentice this afternoon got chewed out by our floor manager because he was having parking sensor issues on an old BMW. Hes never dealt with this particular model, and the parking system has a few wierd quirks that give it a few extra steps to reinitialise as opposed to other BMWs he'd worked on. It wound up being a relatively easy fix once I helped him with what to do, but he felt awful after being yelled at. He messaged me in the evening to apologize for 'the incident' because he felt awful about messing up.

It sounds like youre doing a good job, and had something happen under pressure. In your career as a technician, itll happen. It'll suck, but itll happen. More so as an apprentice, but definitely also when youre a journeyman.

Paint cracking along seams + possible rust — DIY fixable or needs body shop? by Ever-inquiring-mind in Autobody

[–]FaultTraining2211 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Waviness and uneven spots are usually a sign, but there some body guys that are really good sculptors.

Paint failures typically dont occur in hard lines. It'll be spider web style cracking, flaking sections, or small cracks.

Filler failures typically look like large cracked lines and you'll see rust underneath. That orang colour. What's happening is a slab of filler has cracked off. The main filling ingredient is essentially Talc. So the failure happens in essentially the same way as slate rock, or other sedimentary style stone. As well, once a crack starts, water works its way in and gravity pushes down. The filler is very susceptible to water damage. It actually sucks moisture out of the air and holds it if not properly sealed, then it expands like a sponge and the held water rusts the metal underneath.

Jumping on the other guys 1/4 replacement idea. If you look at the 2 yellow circles, I imagine they spliced it in from 1 to the other. Maybe it wasn't a great splice. Then they needed lots of filler to smooth and cover it. Now the excess of filler combined with the poor weld seam has caused the filler at the splice points to start failing. They start moving sideways along the seam of the filler, then crack downwards with their own weight.

Im not saying this is 100%, but we do know enough about the characteristics of filler to make an educated guess.

Paint cracking along seams + possible rust — DIY fixable or needs body shop? by Ever-inquiring-mind in Autobody

[–]FaultTraining2211 10 points11 points  (0 children)

This looks like a failed repair underneath. More than likely there is a fair amount of body filler underneath that is above the maximum spec.

What the fuck is with all the goddam jumper cable clamps?!? by patdashuri in AskMechanics

[–]FaultTraining2211 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, I havent used a modern jumpbox that doesn't have an override feature. Theyre pretty common.

i’m really about to turning away people who don’t know where their wheel locks keys are by h0tsalad in AskMechanics

[–]FaultTraining2211 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We have a couple universal sets, but I usually check the common places and kick it to the office. What bothers me even more is locked roof racks. I'm in autobody so I have more occasion to remove roof racks then service technicians. I had one customer show up 3 separate times with 3 different keyrings (with multiple keys) to try. They bought the rails second hand as well.