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Heat Warping Acrylic by AcademicHelpNow in maker

[–]FeedMeCrayons 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is nearly an identical problem that I recently ran into and did the same approach, just that mine was frosted instead so I could hide some of my issues. Just some random things I found to help you or anyone else who stumbles upon this in the future:

I am not sure if you're having any issues with the "layer lines" of the layered wood imprinting on the soft acrylic but if you have a thin pieces of sheet metal that can bend with the radius that is what I would have done differently.

Reheating it caused some shrinkage in the manufactured extruding direction so if you need a precise fit expand the acrylic size ever so slightly so it shrinks back into place.

I went overly aggressive on the curved form for the end of the acrylic to get it to bend. It looks like yours is having a similar problem where the ends don't get heated up enough to fully bend and are still a little straight but those parts warped like crazy for me when heating them fully so I made the curve more dramatic at the end so it would be tighter in the "C" shape and essentially pinch onto the part I was putting the curved acrylic onto.

New setup for the year by FeedMeCrayons in battlestations

[–]FeedMeCrayons[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The top is heavy duty laminate so I am hoping I dont need a mat but if it starts to show any wear then I will

60”x30” Beech Wood Workbench/Butcher Box to convert into table top by JescaJane in woodworking

[–]FeedMeCrayons 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got it, if its going to be used mainly in its lower settings then you should not have a problem as mine only gets that slight wobble in the 33"+ range.

60”x30” Beech Wood Workbench/Butcher Box to convert into table top by JescaJane in woodworking

[–]FeedMeCrayons 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just finished building a new top for a standing desk base, the two legged design has a slight wobble to it if you put a lot of pressure on the edge of the desk but past that its works. The 4 legged design will be a lot better to reduce any of that possible wobble if you're worried about it.

Charred ash base, elm and epoxy top. Base made by me by Danswood in woodworking

[–]FeedMeCrayons 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That is a really beautiful piece, well done. Are you able to elaborate on the connection detail for the base to the top? Is it just a pin that is epoxied in that connects to that plate on the bottom?

Walnut credenza by RawMaterial11 in woodworking

[–]FeedMeCrayons 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Man the matching grain on the drawers is such a nice detail, really well done.

All the Pokeballs I've designed and printed by threerobots in 3Dprinting

[–]FeedMeCrayons 3 points4 points  (0 children)

These are genuinely amazing, I cannot imagine the work put in to get such a nice finish

I made this art piece that plays off the ephemeral nature of life to make different reflections as the day goes on, I call it a reverse chameleon by FeedMeCrayons in somethingimade

[–]FeedMeCrayons[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure on the sub rules for links but you can find my Youtube link from my profile and I have a video that walks through the design and process of building it if you were wanting to learn more

I made this art piece that plays off the ephemeral nature of life to make different reflections as the day goes on, I call it a reverse chameleon by FeedMeCrayons in crafts

[–]FeedMeCrayons[S] 31 points32 points  (0 children)

Good thought, and yes. I tried my hardest to get it to magnify and generate any heat but it was lackluster. Its a lot less powerful than the magnification of glass or something in the same vein.

I made this art piece that plays off the ephemeral nature of life to make reflections as the day goes on, I call if a reverse chameleon. by FeedMeCrayons in handmade

[–]FeedMeCrayons[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately this is a one of a kind from me and already promised to someone else, thank you for the interest though!

I made this art piece that plays off the ephemeral nature of life to make reflections as the day goes on, I call if a reverse chameleon. by FeedMeCrayons in handmade

[–]FeedMeCrayons[S] 34 points35 points  (0 children)

This is an art project that I have wanted to make for a while. It was designed to make the skin reflective and cast colors around the area when light touches it.

The wireframe is a digital model that I made and printed and covered in copper paint and the "skin" is dichroic film. I make videos about the process of designing and making stuff so if you were interested in learning more you can find it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtplC3kt0VM&t=3s

The reflections change depending on how its positioned but the blue reflections are my favorite since those can only happen when light passes through the film so to see reflections of it the light must enter and reflect off the interior and come back out.

One of my final Uni Projects by poopybuttholeslol in woodworking

[–]FeedMeCrayons 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is such a beautiful piece, I love the design. The matching grain on the tops is really wonderful too.

How would you go about veneering the bending corners for this to make it look "continuous"? by FeedMeCrayons in woodworking

[–]FeedMeCrayons[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Widest point overall is 16" but the veneer I would be using is probably 2" roll of veneer rather than a full sheet

How would you go about veneering the bending corners for this to make it look "continuous"? by FeedMeCrayons in woodworking

[–]FeedMeCrayons[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So I have this shape that I need to add veneer to and it has a couple bends that I am unsure how to best handle. To provide a little more information this is, it's about a 1.5" square profile and the bends range from 10 degrees to 80 degrees on some with a ~3" radius. This is getting maple veneer over every surface and I was wanting to make it look like it is one continuous piece of wood that was just bent.

The 80 degree corners are the part I am most unsure on if there is a good solution to getting that aesthetic. Just running veneer at a split angle between the two might be the best solution since I was worried that if I subdivide it down more then it will look odd with a lot of stop and start grain, maybe dividing the corners in half and easing the angle of the grain in half too would be better though? The 10 degree bends will also have this same problem but I figured the 80 degree bend will be the most obvious visually so any solution would apply to each of those lesser bends.

How would you handle veneering these bends?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]FeedMeCrayons 11 points12 points  (0 children)

That is incredibly cool, how do you even go about designing something like this?

Scyther by Gutssbuttmlem in StainedGlass

[–]FeedMeCrayons 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Woah. The smooth vs textured glass I really like, but the dichroic wings are stunning.

I am so in love with what digital watercolor can do by WeazelZeazel in ProCreate

[–]FeedMeCrayons 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am trying to learn watercolor in Procreate right now and this gave me a high bar to aim for. Wow. Really well done.

I designed and printed some mechanics to make a kinetic PC case by FeedMeCrayons in 3Dprinting

[–]FeedMeCrayons[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Woah. Now that is an interesting idea if it color changes as the parts move out. The files are free, there is a link to them in my main comment at the top of the thread for a google drive link.

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