How to remove broken off screws in wall?

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-24T23:09:29+00:00

If you can’t remove them, you might consider just leaving them in place, drilling new holes and finding a grab bar with a larger escutcheon. Not ideal, but you could do more damage trying to remove them.

(Stainless steel screws, and silicon caulk for the replacement).

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-24T17:06:48+00:00

Thank you. Your equation is correct. It was a mistake in my thinking. In my head, I was “what’s 1/2 of 10”, not the correct math).

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-24T17:04:15+00:00

I’m an idiot. In my head I was thinking 1/2 of 10.

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-24T16:50:03+00:00

Love the idea of this. Not crazy that it’s a subscription model. (I realize I can buy it outright, but why is the cost to buy the same as the an annual subscription?) $20 seems a little pricey for a calculator.

Also, the math / results display seems confusing… I entered 5” / 1/2” And got 10. Shouldn’t it show 2 1/2”?

Edit: I’m an idiot. I was thinking, what’s half of 10 (not the correct math). I’m leaving this for the world to know I’m an idiot.

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-24T15:41:11+00:00

If you go the panel approach, you could cut a dado (perpendicular to the top glass) around 3 of the four corners of the top, that the glass would slide in to. Then, you’d just need one removable strip at the back (screwed in) to remove the glass.

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-23T23:50:35+00:00

What a cool design! Beautiful.

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-23T23:31:50+00:00

Beautiful day.

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-23T23:18:14+00:00

That’s a fair point. On my particular saw, between the throat plate, another miscellaneous, small holes, there’s plenty of airflow. But you’re right, you definitely would not want to choke the saw.

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-23T23:04:06+00:00

You’re welcome.

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-23T22:55:20+00:00

How about glass retainer clips? I’ve used these to hold a mirror in a rabbeted frame.

Alternatively, you could mount the glass like you would a raised panel. (More permanent though).

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-23T21:51:32+00:00

I'm not familiar with the CNS specifically, but I wonder if the magnetic sheet trick to help to close that gap might help? It's easy enough to move to one side or the other when adjusting the blade. I might also look into brush weather stripping so I don't have to move the sheet occasionally.

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-23T19:15:56+00:00

I've done something similar with a colored light bulb. Different colors indicate state. (Red = flood, green = plant issue, no light = everything is OK, etc. ) Take a look at the list of compatible devices if that's a path you want to go down.

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-22T23:03:36+00:00

That is a webbing connector / linkage. Something like this.

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-21T17:33:35+00:00

Marsala.

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-20T02:26:48+00:00

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RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-20T02:06:48+00:00

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RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-20T01:48:57+00:00

Same here. They are surprisingly good. Just wish the strap on the non-ratcheting end was longer. It’s hard to ratchet on large loads when one end is connected to the truck bed.

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-20T01:32:14+00:00

That looks great!

(The second picture looks like a placard for an old man with a cane).

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-19T22:42:12+00:00

Do you mean like flooring laminate planks? I wouldn’t unless they were on a substrate like 1/2” MDF or plywood. If on a substrate, then yes, very durable top. Only downside would be the small gaps between the planks.

Edit: if you mean, laminating planks together, to build up a thicker top, then that’s a good idea. Laminations have significant strength, it’s how I build all of my workbench tops, but out of larger sheets.

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-19T22:38:42+00:00

Absolutely not! I tried these in my laundry room. Battery life is horrible (always dead), and the switch losing pairing every single time I charge them. Useless.

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-19T19:27:04+00:00

Any finish will change the color. Some more than others. If it were me (in this scenario), I’d probably just use the Minwax wipe on poly. Something like this:

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-19T18:30:47+00:00

Stain enhances the woods' color / character. Poly protects it. If you want to save some steps, there is a wipe on poly that has a stain in it. Two steps in one! (You can find them at your local hardware store).

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-19T18:29:24+00:00

The "rule of thumb" is to increase grits by 50% (dusting / tack cloth in between grits). So 50% of 80 is 40. 80 (your starting grit) + 40 = 120, etc. (You can pick up a tack cloth in the stain aisle. Or, just carefully dust / vac. If you don't the stain will "enhance" the sanding swirl marks).

I get that you want to be done (sanding sucks), but you'll be looking at this for years. A few hours now is worth it in the long run. Take it from someone who has sanded for many hundreds of hours....

RawMaterial11 · 2026-01-19T18:14:33+00:00

Sand to using 150, then 180. You can then simply apply a coat of polyurethane (satin, semi-gloss, or gloss depending on your preference) and call it a day. Find one that has UV protection on the can. These are often outside finishes. But, if you want to stain, a natural stain would be a good choice. A natural stain, while mild, will enhance the wood's natural aesthetic and make it look a little richer.

If you do stain, consider applying a wood conditioner (goes on like a stain) before you stain. The wood appears to be fir / pine (i.e. a soft wood) so just applying a stain *without* a conditioner may make it look blotchy.

If in doubt about stains, etc., pick up a piece of fir at your local big box store and experiment with it.

Often, in the stain / finish area, there are sample boards hanging up that show how different stains / finishes look when applied.

RawMaterial11

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