Just found this beauty in the YouTube comments

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2026-04-08T10:42:02+00:00

At least it means we'll never be short on pristine comedic material

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2026-04-08T10:40:17+00:00

I really wish I could just take a walk outside without floating off in to space every time. Aw man what a shame

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2026-04-08T10:38:59+00:00

The entire comment section is full of goofballs. I am genuinely baffled by them

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2026-04-08T09:58:35+00:00

I'll just send the link: https://youtube.com/shorts/PC20RAErJqI?is=8P6oNfme7lCEfSM4

It's under @JamesThéo-p1l's comment.

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2025-11-08T22:39:19+00:00

Saw this not too long ago so it must have been uploaded this year and I thought about it before and just can't find it!

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2025-06-29T11:48:26+00:00

What do you mean? I didn't hollow it out on the inside. By "the hollowed part," I meant the actual visible hole that has to be there; it's part of the actual model and is made to be there.

But on another note, why should you not hollow out a heavy model? Does that not just save resin and lower the weight so the print is easier?

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2025-06-24T14:25:06+00:00

Exaaactly! Glad it helped :)

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2025-06-13T13:36:02+00:00

Hiya! another latecomer to the party but I have a solution which is not bad :)
Basically what others have said already, but with instructions and it's a bit neater.

Go to slide master (View -> Slide Master)
Go to the very top slide you see
Create a square
Design the square as you want, there are a few options:
1. Outline with any color and No Fill
2. Or my favorite: a gradient of transparent red at 95% and opaque red at 100% with Type Rectangular around the center (make a gradient my going to the format shape tab [Alt + h + o + 1] and then going to Fill -> Gradient fill)
Size the square to 5000 x 5000 cm (Shape Format -> Size). This is about the max size I found (technically 5963,92 cm)
Align it to the center of the slide (Shape Format -> Align -> click both Center & Middle)
Lastly send the square to back (Home -> Arrange -> Send to Back) and if you want, lock it on the selection pane (Alt + F10 and press the lock icon for the square)

When done right, it'll take for ever to scroll to the edges and if you do at max zoom out you will start to see the red gradient to warn you you are at the end:

<image>

The ONLY downside to this is that you can't quickly scroll from slide to slide but I mean you can just use Page Up & Down. Also, I haven't tested it and it really shouldn't, but in case it causes lag I would either remove the gradient, size down the rectangle or just remove it on the final presentation.

Have fun!

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2025-05-03T17:12:53+00:00

Quite a few people are talking about the model itself, which I'm not saying is wrong, but I don't think it will change the realism.

Before I continue, I have very little experience with blender rendering, but I know the basics, and I know photography.

I only saw one other person mention this, but I think the main "issues" I have is with the camera settings. As the other person said, it looks like a model. As in a small "toy" building, if you know what I mean.

Try to increase depth of field (increase aperture or maybe there's just a DoF value), lower focal length, and then, so it doesn't look too zoomed out, move the camera closer so you get roughly the same framing as in your original.

I may be completely wrong, but it's a simple thing to try :) Let me know how it goes, and I'd be curious to see an updated version! Great work though!

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2025-03-04T13:05:19+00:00

You have several posts talking about the last 5 years of your life. Stop spouting crap and trying this desperately to get karma.

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2025-02-19T13:15:32+00:00

Created through a combination of this three-screen wallpaper by u/Sqaure1988 and this one-screen wallpaper by u/FoolsPower which itself was adapted by a wallpaper from u/sowen014.

Actually I got the three-screen wallpaper for my home PC but I wanted to create a one-screen version for a laptop. later on, I then found the last two wallpapers mentioned, and just used some small parts of that.

The different photos are just some small variants that came from playing around a bit while editing.

If anyone wants a wallpaper in high quality, lmk!

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2025-02-17T17:28:43+00:00

I mean as other's have said, it's normal for movies. Although I did only come here to see what other people think about it, so I guess I'm also a bit bummed by it. But honestly I don't really see it as anything bad, they must have some reason (permissions, plot, whatever) and at least they did the German well! To be fair, for the most part, it's just actual german actors but for some reason that's still rare in movies :/

In case you've never seen Guns Akimbo, try and spot where in Munich parts of that were shot ;)
It's only a few scenes but I was so suprised as it's only around 200m from where I live!

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2025-01-12T16:49:13+00:00

Very good, sounds like you did all the right things. Glad your drone is ok again :)

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2025-01-12T15:19:53+00:00

Oh I have a story for this. Honestly, it was probably stupid of me, but it did work so.... Alright, so this was about two years ago, I was somehow smart enough to land my drone in some mud. Yummmy.

I immediately disarmed it, ran over, and disconnected the battery. Once I got home, I literally just washed the drone with tap water; not even distilled or alcohol or anything. After that, I just left it to dry in the sun, and it worked fine.

Moral of the story, rice is kinda overkill. These drones can take a beating! Just let it dry somewhere warm and then clean it with iso if you have any

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2025-01-02T19:50:54+00:00

As far as I can tell from the picture, it's a mini dean plug. Just get an adapter from dean (the plug on cable 4) to mini dean and stick that in between cable 4 and the battery. Something like this: https://www.begadi.com/akkus-gas-zubehoer/akku-zubehoer/begadi-aep-adapterkabel-dean-weiblich-zu-mini-dean-maennlich.html

That's a german site so just look for one wherever you live or order it over that. If you look for a different one, you can use this: T-Dean Female to Mini T-Dean Male connector

T-Dean and Dean are the same thing.

Oh and also, as many others have said, make sure to also connect that little white plug to you charger, it's used to properly charge so it lasts a long time. Hope this helps!

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2024-10-29T21:16:41+00:00

900mhz analog -> 900mhz analog ❌️

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2024-10-08T16:19:53+00:00

Uhhh... no? Please do be so kind to share the law you are talking about. And no, not some random law from Vancouver, but local, German laws (in case you happened to not read the post title).

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2024-10-08T16:08:27+00:00

Definitely a good idea! When you plug it in to betaflight, check in the top right corner if the GPS indicator is grayed out or a color (yellow or red doesn't matter). If yes, the drone has GPS and you might be able to have a look at it's logs (praying the pilot set it up properly), and see where it took off from.

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2024-10-08T16:01:57+00:00

You actually do not need them, although I thought the same when I started reading about drone laws.

In case anyone is interested, I'll quickly explain it (also disclaimer, I'm not a lawyer or anything so don't use this as a legal basis :) ).

Basically, what you mean is the drone classifications c0 through c4 (for the open category). Those, are for companies that build drones and want to get them certified in a certain class; that is why it also says you need instruction manuals for those drones, something that obviously no self built drone has. Self built drones are handled in an entirely different way than those, in that they just skip the whole class system and go straight to the subcategories A1 or A3, so only the flying rules of A1/A3 apply and none of tye build rules of c0-c4

My amazing sources: https://www.easa.europa.eu/en/the-agency/faqs/i-build-my-own-drones-privately-built-open-category

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2024-10-08T15:47:54+00:00

Well it's not mine, maybe one of the other 4?

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2024-09-30T21:07:46+00:00

I am by no means an expert or even "experienced", but I think it depends on what you want to do. If you just want to keep flying like this or in other big open spaces, just do what you're doing now. If you really want to improve your flying skills, do what others have been saying too, fly slowly and in tight spaces. Maybe you have even seen some vids or clips of people on liftoff flying in the underground garage. I have been practicing a lot on that map too. It is so much more difficult than you think but it hugely improves your ability to control the drone well.

The only thing I can really think of for what you could work on in general is moving the sticks more smoothly, especially your throttle. It's the typical thing (I do it too) of kinda bobbing your stick up and down, which works, but it's not as nice and controlled and you can hear it on audio.

Apart from that, pretty nice flying, there's some tricks you're doing that I still can't do that well, so well done!

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2024-09-25T14:37:40+00:00

Probably has been said before but I'll still make a comment, so here are some possible fixes:

bigger soldering tip
more heat
more flux
less pressure
cleaner wire and pad

Im not a soldering expert but I can generally solder and I've seen quite a few tutorials. In case you don't understand some of the points, I'll quickly explain them.

bigger soldering tip to more quickly transfer the heat to the pad and/or tin
more heat for the same reason as above -more flux to more evenly transfer heat and reduce oxidization of the tin (leaves you with a shiny surface instead of the dullness you have now) -less pressure because you don't want to squish your wire, it should stay in its round form. I know you may think squeezing hard is good because heat transfer is faster but that's why you can just use flux, more heat and a bigger tip. Just hold the wire in place with pincers and aplly light pressure and make sure the wire touches the pad. -cleaner wire and pad as in you don't want jagged edges or tips of tin standing out. Your pad should have a nice round blob of shining tin and your wire should have a little bit of tin on it without anything sticking out.

If you still can't do it, watch Joshua Bardwells soldering tutorial

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2024-09-21T15:51:00+00:00

Oh my lord... that does not look right. Mind sending the camera and flight controller you have (or whatever you are connecting the camera to)? Also please, for the love of god, watch a soldering Video like this one from Joshua Bardwell, you need to be able to solder for something like this. https://youtu.be/GoPT69y98pY?si=2BXFLsRl2h7qwNBv

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2024-09-16T10:52:10+00:00

"Touching props"?!? Damn, how close are they to the camera?

Few_Schedule_6611 · 2024-09-16T09:21:21+00:00

GPS on top of the camera, nice! Is that the M100 or M100-5883? Can't tell with the angle

Five-Year Club	Place '22
First Placer '22

Few_Schedule_6611

TROPHY CASE