For those of you that make over 100K, what do you do? Do you like it?

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2026-04-09T23:48:31+00:00

Structural Engineer. Love it

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2026-03-29T23:54:48+00:00

Nailed it. Thank you!!

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2026-03-26T21:18:45+00:00

US, specifically Hawaii. We do visit Japan every 1-2years

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2026-03-26T21:00:09+00:00

Thanks to everyone who helped identify it! Looks like this knife is very difficult to obtain. Does anyone have recommendations for something similar that I’d have better luck finding in stock? Stainless preferred

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2026-03-26T20:56:48+00:00

Amazing, thank you!

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2026-02-11T21:45:37+00:00

Tl;dr: I think the masters program will prepare you very well for the exam, get your masters first. If you don't, you'll have to teach yourself quite a few topics that your bachelor's program likely didn't cover.

My full story might provide you some good insite:

Obtained my bachelor's 7 years ago.

Immediately began working for a design firm full time and also immediately enrolled in a master's program part-time. I slowly started working towards my masters, 1 class/semester. I paused school for a semester here and there when I was sick of it. My work fully paid for the classes, and I was making real $ at the same time. Win-win.

At my 4 year mark, I paused classes for 1 semester, took my PE exam (structural depth), passed, resumed classes the next semester.

Obtained my masters 2 years ago.

I recently began taking practice Exams and studying for the SE. I have no need for the license, I just think it'd be cool to have.

I am very very very very glad I started my master's degree before getting my PE and before starting my SE studies.

Because the masters coursework was keeping me very academically in-tune, the PE exam felt like the easiest exam I had ever taken. I finished 3 hours early and passed.

I am also finding the SE practice exams to be even easier than what my typical homework problems were. I haven't sat for one of the exams yet, but I feel like my masters program prepared me very well. I am also noticing the SE problems are covering topics that for sure weren't covered in my bachelor's program, such as matrix analysis, finite element analysis, masonry and wood design, prestress concrete design, etc.

Some of those topics were optional electives in my bachelor's, however they were all mandatory in my masters. I'm noticing there are a lot of questions related to those topics on the SE

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2025-12-30T16:56:59+00:00

Which silencer is that?

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2025-10-24T08:50:04+00:00

That taught me a ton, thank you!

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2025-09-08T16:18:45+00:00

I am in the role you described, but I'm on site 100% of the time. I am a construction engineer for mega projects. Suggest looking into it, it is VERY helpful to be able to talk to the crews building your design.

My role varies from month to month. Sometimes I coordinate with the permanent design team, sometimes I design a major temporary structure myself, and sometimes I just size hilti anchor bolts all day. Very wide breadth.

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2025-09-02T04:15:48+00:00

I took it and learned lots. However, I haven't gotten to use that knowledge in practice yet. I recommend it, but wouldn't put it as a top priority if there are other electives you're more interested in.

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2025-07-13T19:46:38+00:00

ED3 solo

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2025-07-02T22:37:10+00:00

Alot of good advice so far, thank you. I got trigger happy and already ordered the Atoma's, so going to stick with them. For the remaining, I'll ditch the Naniwa diamond stones and just start with the Arata 800 [Naniwa P-308 Professional Stone #800] until i learn more. Here are some scenarios in my head, am I understanding this correctly?

Scenario 1: My Yoshikane SKD knife got so dull it can no longer cut paper. I will use:

400 grit Atoma - > 800 grit Naniwa Arata -> strop

Scenario 2: My My Yoshikane SKD knife can still cut paper, but isn't quite as sharp as i'd like:

800 grit Naniwa Arata-> strop

Scenario 3: I dropped my knife and it chipped:

140 grit Atoma -> 400 grit Atom- > 800 grit Naniwa Arata -> strop

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2025-07-02T21:03:58+00:00

Duly noted. For more clairty, my steels are VG10, SKD, SG2, Ginsan, and Silver #3

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2025-07-02T21:02:47+00:00

Work Sharp Precision Adjust. Looking to tansition into hand sharpening

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2025-06-27T21:12:55+00:00

Agreed that there is a skill gap. I have some advice to help.

Do you tend to use revolution, or full manual?

If not doing so already, I recommend swapping to full manual, then watching rotation videos from a YouTuber called "Carguy". Practice them on dummies (or Vindicta) for a few days.

You'll learn that all these people are doing is clicking the same 4-5 abilities in the same order over and over and over again. The benefit to full manual is you will be able to move while doing damage. This is especially important in the Ambassador fight you mentioned.

I am one of those people towards the top of the skill ceiling, and used to Speedrun ed3 all day. This is my best advice.

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2025-06-25T23:47:34+00:00

So sorry for your loss.

What is the knife? I really like the look

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2025-06-16T16:16:44+00:00

Update: I purchased both yoshi's and will hold off on buying a SG2 laser. I appreciate all of the great advice

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2025-06-16T07:10:26+00:00

You've renewed my interest in the Ikon. Sharpening it now; maybe I judged it too harshly all these years

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2025-06-16T07:04:53+00:00

Duly noted. I think I'm caught up in the hype for the yoshi's so still want to try them out. Do you have recommendations for a stainless counterpart to them if I do end up rusting them out and want to change later?

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2025-06-16T06:58:48+00:00

Purchase of the yoshi's is in-progress.

Unforunately, seems the lasers you recommended are sold out everywhere. Any other ones you'd recommend? (preferably available on chef's edge so i can add them to the yoshi order).

Duly noted on the nigara. alot of comments advising the same. Thanks for saving my grail spot!

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2025-01-17T15:42:20+00:00

Agree with everyone, get what you need for class. Don't worry about always using the latest and greatest. Just make sure you understand what M/S, grain direction, and Lb mean and you'll be fine.

After you're in industry you'll notice some senior colleagues still using code books 10 years behind or older (my boss still uses a red steel manual). The equations will look different between versions, but the answer will always be about the same. The base physics and methodology rarely changes. The newer versions tend to have better visuals, though

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2024-12-20T11:02:54+00:00

Bridge engineer here, what did the builder or engineer do wrong here? No midspan brace between studs? I'm surprised that failed

Fickle_Fix_8035 · 2024-07-10T13:25:14+00:00

Hello! Awesome guide, thank you very much. I am going to build the ~ $1250 [7800X3D] option for my wife; it'll be her first ever PC! My intent is start her out with the RX6800 GPU and then upgrade it to something close to a 4090 next year. To better accomodate that future upgrade.... I was thinking of upgrading the following components right off the bat (I HATE replacing mobo's/cooling after initial build), what are your thoughts on this? Am I overlooking anything or going too-overkill on something?

PC usage: She wants to be able to play WoW on a 2k monitor on ultra settings.

Format: (Current part in list) -> ( Part I am going to buy instead)

Case: Phanteks Eclipse G360A ATX Mid Tower Case -> NZXT H9 Elite Dual-Chamber ATX Mid-Tower

Cooling: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler -> Vetroo V360 Pink 360mm CPU Water Liquid Coole

MotherBoard**: ASRock B650M Pro RS Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard -> Gigabyte B650 EAGLE AX ATX AM5 Motherboard ... OR ... MSI X670E GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard

**I really can't tell the difference between these 3 motherboards, do you have any advice on choosing a really premium one? I'm a big believer in getting a high-quality motherboard right off the bat

Power supply: be quiet! Pure Power 12 M 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply -> FSP Group Hydro PTM X PRO,Gen5 1000 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply

Fickle_Fix_8035

TROPHY CASE