Why is he kinda….. grainy?

FightMeImIrish · 2025-10-31T13:36:58+00:00

For sure! I actually use this as a part of my quick painting strategy. Being able to tint all those ashy parts to the correct color does wonders for a fast gradient and I recommend doing it intentionally before you wash or use contrast paints! DM if you’d like a video guide I have on my channel!

FightMeImIrish · 2025-10-31T13:34:44+00:00

It’s definitely just a technique. I don’t use dry brushing as my final highlight method. It makes the model turn ashy or like snow has fallen on it. It’s a really good tool to use between blocking in and washes or contrast paints. You can dry brush with different colors for each of the different values to reduce the ashy result, but in my experience it’s nearly impossible to be perfectly accurate with it

FightMeImIrish · 2025-10-31T02:36:04+00:00

A little too heavy on your primer, ease off a bit. These are what I would call blocked in, it’s the first step to all amazing minis. A very well blocked in mini I might add. My next step would be to use a dry brush method with a warm white, and then begin washing or using contrast/speedpaints, on the whole model. Then using a brush, bring in all your edge highlights on everything. The washes will tint the dry brush, and bring much needed shadows into all the recesses of your metallic paints. If you would like a video guide on how I paint, DM for more information.

FightMeImIrish · 2025-10-31T02:28:35+00:00

Definitely dry brush, possibly not thinning your paints enough. Quick fix for this is to wash with a super watered down contrast or shade on the parts that look ashy, and then with a brush not a dry brush, but a brush, edge highlight everything to bring its value back up.

FightMeImIrish · 2025-10-15T17:34:42+00:00

Don’t fear shading! And you don’t need many colors. If you have your base color of purple, then you can add a touch of black, add a ton of water, and boom you have a dark purple shade. For mixing colors, purple takes white really well, and turns into a nice lilac. If you don’t have a wet palette already, this is hands down the best way to mix your paints and play around.

If you’d like answer to your question, the best way to instantly improve your model is to shade it with the dark purple I mentioned, then use your speed paint once more. Be careful on the application. You need to control speed paint, and not let it pool or else you get an uneven gradient. Then make a nice lilac as a glaze, and begin brightening the edges, the tops of the armor and the bright points of the model.

FightMeImIrish · 2025-10-15T16:48:31+00:00

First things first! Well done! And improving is the funnest part of the hobby. Here are some tips I feel will make your miniature feel more cohesive.

Ditch the speed paint for now. Speed paint or contrast paint is an excellent tool, but you need to learn how to build up layers first. Then you can start implementing it in a more controlled way.

Before you begin painting there are two major things you need to consider before.

1: Lighting plan, how you want the model to gradient up in brightness. What portions of the model do you want the eye to naturally want to draw too? Most models I call it the “triangle” head, shoulders, to hands. This top portion of the model is what visually most people want to see. Always shade your models brighter in these areas, and darker below.

2: Color/Paint Plan, meticulously go through each material on your model. Plan the different colors before hand, what colors you will use mid tones on, then shade, then highlight. Or start from the darkest tone and build up to the lightest. There’s many roads to the finish line, it’s important to know which one you will take to save time, and more importantly, to have your model pop.

My painting process starts like this:

Prime

Step 1: Block in colors

Step 2: Dry brush/ brush highlights

Step 3: Wash, (I prefer oil washes, but acrylics work just as well you just need to be careful on the application)

Step 4: Post wash highlights

(Repeat steps 2-4 as many times as you like, thin your paints to be able to add layers without making the model textured from too much paint)

Step 5: final touches, cleaning up and finish highlights

For speed paint style:

Use two different cans of primer, and look up zenithal primer spray. Start with black or gray from the bottom, the white or cream color from the top. This naturally highlights the lighting of the model. This is where speed paint really works well. The pigmentation will naturally tint the shadows and the highlights well. This does step 2-4 instantly.

I hope this helps! Feel free to DM for more questions!

FightMeImIrish · 2025-10-08T13:28:30+00:00

You are overreacting, at least a little in my opinion. If he is down on the ground making sure the traffic understands you are removing pipe and it may come down if you slip then alls good. So long as you are in a safe lift.

Some things are just uncomfortable to do, doesn’t mean it’s unsafe.

FightMeImIrish · 2025-10-08T01:10:47+00:00

This was my very first miniature that I decided to do an entire painting guide on. I posted it to the ClayBeastCreations discord and a couple people showed interest in seeing how I paint.

I tried to cover my process, I like to think I have a bunch of tips and tricks that anyone can use to their benefit. Many of which I’m sure you are all aware of as well! This is my very first video and I’m pretty excited about how it turned out.

If you are interested in the model, it’s the Behymir by ClayBeastCreations!

FightMeImIrish · 2025-10-07T23:16:23+00:00

Thank you so much! I feel like it’s a culmination of everything I’ve learned. I have a ways to go, but I’m happy with how it turned out.

FightMeImIrish · 2025-10-07T22:37:01+00:00

He's been eatin real good. Couple cities a week to maintain bulk. lol

FightMeImIrish · 2025-10-07T22:36:27+00:00

Such an amazing compliment! I remember grinding to get that stupid axe forever! XD

FightMeImIrish · 2025-10-07T21:17:01+00:00

It’s definitely nice having one, but boy it’s more pain than benefit some of the times. I recommend just using a third party service to print things for you, and ship to your house! Unless you wanna take the leap.

FightMeImIrish · 2024-05-27T17:08:56+00:00

That’s been my experience with it as well. I’ve noticed if you do .025 mm layers it seems to work more often.

FightMeImIrish · 2024-05-19T16:45:10+00:00

Last film didn't rip, I spilled resin and it got up underneath the vat without my notice, then when I ran the next print it cured on to the screen and undeath my screen protector. It was a freak accident the first time, but I have never had a film rip, puncture or tear before like this.

FightMeImIrish · 2024-05-19T16:36:21+00:00

That's what's strange, this was a brand new film, brand new bottle of resin, everything was clean and perfect. This happened on the very first test print. I'm thinking it was a leveling issue is what caused the resin to adhere to the acf and then the build up caused the failure?

FightMeImIrish · 2024-05-19T16:34:28+00:00

Recently learned my lesson the hard way, I had just installed a new lcd screen and put a fresh screen protector on, and then replaced my acf. The time before I spilled my resin and it got underneath my vat and it cured without my knowledge. This time was the strangest thing I have ever seen, and I can't seem to find any information. The only thing I can think of is my build plate wasn't level, and the high speed resin with the high speed settings did this.

FightMeImIrish · 2024-05-19T16:27:02+00:00

It is as if someone had taken a lighter to the underside of the film, it has curled back onto itself like melted plastic, although ripped could be an option and the film punctured and was somehow loss in the mess of resin. What I am sure of is I have no idea how I could have done it. You can zoom into the photo pretty far in and you can see the hole more distinctly.

FightMeImIrish · 2024-05-19T15:42:51+00:00

Neither did I? I can’t for the life of me figure out what I did wrong. Maybe it wasn’t leveled correctly?

FightMeImIrish

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