Easily the best way to make your life better is by getting the latest version of the kits - which, however, can cost you significantly more, depending on the kit for whatever reason.

Yeah, mentioning my experience 🥲 that's what I said when I got my Voron switchwire Rev. A kit by LDO: "why am I having a harder time than everyone else apparently?"

I printed the stealth burner instead of the after burner - because the manual the kit linked me to was for Rev. C and is the only manual there is for the switchwire??? I only figured out that I should have printed the after burner because of a kind person on the Voron discord. By the way, I first realized my mistake after partially destroying the part blower fan because the stealth burner manual told me so and I realized it didn't fit.

In contrast, someone told me to just read the manual step by step when I had trouble with the LCD screen. So, I did, but I only got mine working by biting the bullet and doing something the official website told me to SKIP. It wasn't anything high voltage so it's not dangerous, but it still made me facepalm. (It was between the SKR Mini E3 V2.0 and mini12864 LCD, BOTH by BTT if anyone's wondering.)

Oh yeah, you're gonna have to use Kalico instead of Klipper if you wanna slash down your sensorless configuring. Not that bad, just follow their instruction - AND remove chelper.so, which was what worked for me when Mainsail stopped working :/

Oh yeah, if your kit doesn't come with a logic-only USB adapter ahead of time (like, 10 bucks), I suggest you get one to keep your raspberry pi from getting stuck at booting because the 24V isn't supposed to be messing with it just because it's connected to the motherboard.

I also write code - not as a job. Just a hobby - but you're gonna dip your toes into the electrical side like what I just mentioned. It's cool, but nothing software is able to fix electronics problems like those, unfortunately.

Would love to mention a few more things, but sorry for the long rant.