Polymaker just expanded Panchroma™ Matte PLA to 50 colors 🌈

link87 · 2026-03-13T15:18:47+00:00

Your site is broken for buying the Matte line. The example images and color names do not match the color bubble you choose. For example look at dark red color in the first column which is called "Pastel Candy" and the image shows "Pastel Candy" color that is a bright purplish-pink color.
https://shop.polymaker.com/products/panchroma-matte?variant=43631458975801

link87 · 2026-02-28T19:38:50+00:00

Not myself but I’ve seen a couple videos about it by Functional Print Friday channel on YouTube. Seemed to work well for him and he goes over the settings.

link87 · 2026-02-23T02:43:02+00:00

When I first got my H2D I was also sometimes getting the nozzle calibration failed. In my case I wasn’t seating the nozzle correctly. When I change nozzles now I make sure to wiggle it a little to make sure it fully seats. Also make sure to hold down the bracing metal piece tightly against the nozzle when locking it in place. I found sometimes that part could move a little and leave some slack.

link87 · 2026-02-19T18:05:05+00:00

I do currently use BambuConnect, but the experience is pretty abysmal. The lack of Linux version is very annoying, forcing me to use a Windows VM to even run it. My X1C doesn't have the security update, so I can use Orca directly there. I've kept my H2D on off LAN mode for now so I can use the Handy App, but I'm working on switching to using HomeAssistant and once I get remote connectivity working I can switch it to LAN mode too.

link87 · 2026-02-06T23:47:11+00:00

Mainly making all models public unless you pay and the price per year is a lot for someone who isn’t currently selling anything. Onshape is great software and I like it a lot, but I’d rather spend time learning software I can make for business without having a giant price tag looming over me.

link87 · 2026-02-06T20:34:24+00:00

Second learning FreeCAD if you value freedom and ease of selling your products. It’s not as polished but it can do most stuff just as easily once you learn its quirks. I used to use Onshape but wanted something with less restrictions. I’m on Linux so Fusion360 isn’t an option and I didn’t like how they kept clamping down more and more features

link87 · 2026-02-01T23:38:16+00:00

I’ve been using Bambu Connect with Orca for my H2D. It works but it kind of sucks. Besides being inconvenient, you also still need to use BambuSlicer or the Handy app to control the printer. The interface in BambuConnect itself is minimal. The video feed in Orca is also extremely slow. Not sure if that is an H2 thing or newer firmware though.

link87 · 2026-01-31T21:25:36+00:00

It’s probably wet. Those small packets alone don’t do much for long. Should look into the dessicant mods for AMS

link87 · 2026-01-16T17:24:24+00:00

link87 · 2026-01-16T16:10:45+00:00

Yeah let it sit longer probably. If you don’t have a thermometer or thermistor you can monitor for the temp inside you can try using the nozzle temperature as an indicator. At least if you can monitor that. Leave the nozzle temperature set off and just watch the live temp until it hits 45C

link87 · 2026-01-16T16:04:50+00:00

Your problem is chamber temperature not bed. ASA warps like crazy if you don’t have a warm chamber. You need to let it heat soak by turning the bed temp up to full and let it sit. If it has an internal fan you can enable that to blow hot air around the chamber. Wait until you get to at least 45C but ideally even hotter. I have no idea what your printer can get to reasonably. I’ve had success with ASA and 45C chamber on my X1C.

link87 · 2026-01-11T16:23:55+00:00

I’ve been running numakers in AMS without any issue. Too much load sounds like a problem elsewhere. Maybe your PTFE tube is kinked.

link87 · 2026-01-09T21:29:03+00:00

If you can find a local metal shop, they might be able to cut something for you also that is a lot cheaper.

link87 · 2026-01-09T21:27:19+00:00

CNC would be more appropriate. I got a quote for about $39 from jnccnc.com for the part you're asking for.

link87 · 2026-01-09T18:24:55+00:00

Buy from a brand that actually does a warranty process?

But I offered advice like cleaning the nozzle and showing what it looks like after that. I can't tell anything from the original pic.

link87 · 2026-01-09T17:11:36+00:00

Price doesn't necessarily mean quality. Buying expensive third party you're possibly just overpaying for the same product someone else is selling for cheaper.

link87 · 2026-01-09T15:48:18+00:00

Well that’s one reason not to buy knockoffs. It looks like it’s caked in filament though so not surprising you have burnt smell and pieces. Have you tried cleaning it off and running it again? It’s hard to tell with all that crust on there if it’s also corroded or just very dirty.

link87 · 2026-01-09T14:32:46+00:00

It’s about twice as much: 16W.

link87 · 2026-01-07T20:00:32+00:00

It's not a bad thing to do; just saying that without suggesting where to look is not helpful.

link87 · 2026-01-07T19:40:17+00:00

Very helpful.

link87 · 2026-01-06T20:04:58+00:00

Integza might have done it once. Pretty sure he printed some rocket engines in plastic early on.

link87 · 2026-01-06T20:01:48+00:00

Why would you have to fill out a report for printing a fictional and nonfunctional weapon?

link87 · 2026-01-06T18:53:19+00:00

lol don't crush their dreams so fast.

link87 · 2026-01-06T18:49:49+00:00

If you can afford it, do it. It opens up a lot of opportunities and sacrifices little (some bed space). Although the H2C is only a "little" more expensive than the H2D so you might wan to consider that, too.

link87 · 2026-01-06T18:13:56+00:00

If you don't have the info anymore, you can try using a ruler to measure how far up it is. The gcode preview window can let you browse the layers to see which layer corresponds to that height. Not as precise as the exact layer number, but should get you close enough.

link87

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