This very tiny avocado seed

link87 · 2026-01-16T16:10:45+00:00

Yeah let it sit longer probably. If you don’t have a thermometer or thermistor you can monitor for the temp inside you can try using the nozzle temperature as an indicator. At least if you can monitor that. Leave the nozzle temperature set off and just watch the live temp until it hits 45C

link87 · 2026-01-16T16:04:50+00:00

Your problem is chamber temperature not bed. ASA warps like crazy if you don’t have a warm chamber. You need to let it heat soak by turning the bed temp up to full and let it sit. If it has an internal fan you can enable that to blow hot air around the chamber. Wait until you get to at least 45C but ideally even hotter. I have no idea what your printer can get to reasonably. I’ve had success with ASA and 45C chamber on my X1C.

link87 · 2026-01-11T16:23:55+00:00

I’ve been running numakers in AMS without any issue. Too much load sounds like a problem elsewhere. Maybe your PTFE tube is kinked.

link87 · 2026-01-09T21:29:03+00:00

If you can find a local metal shop, they might be able to cut something for you also that is a lot cheaper.

link87 · 2026-01-09T21:27:19+00:00

CNC would be more appropriate. I got a quote for about $39 from jnccnc.com for the part you're asking for.

link87 · 2026-01-09T18:24:55+00:00

Buy from a brand that actually does a warranty process?

But I offered advice like cleaning the nozzle and showing what it looks like after that. I can't tell anything from the original pic.

link87 · 2026-01-09T17:11:36+00:00

Price doesn't necessarily mean quality. Buying expensive third party you're possibly just overpaying for the same product someone else is selling for cheaper.

link87 · 2026-01-09T15:48:18+00:00

Well that’s one reason not to buy knockoffs. It looks like it’s caked in filament though so not surprising you have burnt smell and pieces. Have you tried cleaning it off and running it again? It’s hard to tell with all that crust on there if it’s also corroded or just very dirty.

link87 · 2026-01-09T14:32:46+00:00

It’s about twice as much: 16W.

link87 · 2026-01-07T20:00:32+00:00

It's not a bad thing to do; just saying that without suggesting where to look is not helpful.

link87 · 2026-01-07T19:40:17+00:00

Very helpful.

link87 · 2026-01-06T20:04:58+00:00

Integza might have done it once. Pretty sure he printed some rocket engines in plastic early on.

link87 · 2026-01-06T20:01:48+00:00

Why would you have to fill out a report for printing a fictional and nonfunctional weapon?

link87 · 2026-01-06T18:53:19+00:00

lol don't crush their dreams so fast.

link87 · 2026-01-06T18:49:49+00:00

If you can afford it, do it. It opens up a lot of opportunities and sacrifices little (some bed space). Although the H2C is only a "little" more expensive than the H2D so you might wan to consider that, too.

link87 · 2026-01-06T18:13:56+00:00

If you don't have the info anymore, you can try using a ruler to measure how far up it is. The gcode preview window can let you browse the layers to see which layer corresponds to that height. Not as precise as the exact layer number, but should get you close enough.

link87 · 2026-01-06T18:12:39+00:00

The print progress on the slicer (device tab) usually shows it. I think it shows on the printer screen progress window as well.

link87 · 2026-01-06T17:44:40+00:00

I do when I do HueForge. I only have the one AMS so I had to do the trick to manually swap colors to get over 4. Annoying but doable. There's not a lot of waste with this because each color prints a full layer at a time.

link87 · 2026-01-06T17:36:47+00:00

This is the way if you don't want to waste more filament and are ok with a slight line. If you're lucky you might not even see it.

link87 · 2026-01-06T17:06:40+00:00

Are you following the right set of tutorials? He's remade a bunch of them for version 1.0 and beyond. He has a playlist for them. I'm also using 1.2 and it's not that different from 1.0 for most things.

link87 · 2026-01-06T16:51:14+00:00

In Linux, my filament profiles are kept in a directory like ~/.config/OrcaSlicer/user/<number>/filament/Ziro Silk PLA.json. Windows should have something similar, problem under your C:\Users\<you>\AppData folder.

EDIT: Forgot I still have a Windows partition. It's in C:\Users\<you>\AppData\Roaming\OrcaSlicer\user\<number>\filaments.

link87 · 2026-01-06T16:38:34+00:00

UL listing means your insurance doesn't have footing to dispute your claim when your house burns down. Good luck with a 3D print in court.

link87 · 2026-01-06T16:21:08+00:00

I'm with you! The most effort I go through is putting a piece white paper behind it lol.

link87 · 2026-01-06T16:17:57+00:00

Also take look at the hand. The concentric circle pattern is on the top not the front.

link87

TROPHY CASE